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Most Liked Content

#1027151 Ideas on Swaping a Weber Carb on EA82´s

Posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo on 07 September 2011 - 05:22 PM

Remember: Japanese cars uses milimetric measurements, so the factory size for the main PCV system's Hoses, is the milimetric equivalent to 19/32" (~ 15.1 mm)  I used 5/8" in evaporative systems' rated Hose, 5/8" = 20/32" (~ 15.8 mm) with perfect results.




5/8" is easier to find than 19/32" and gives more room for the fumes to move freely.


So, I'll refer to all the hoses in inches only.




To do the proper reinstall, I needed:

1. Enough 5/8" Hose (more than 4 foot needed).


2. Enough 3/8" Hose (Less than 1 foot needed).

3. One Lightweight Plastic 5/8" Tee with a 3/8" detour opening.


(the 3/8" detour is very important, do Not use an equal diameter tee)




4. One 5/8" Lightweight Plastic Elbow to Use at the Air Filter Box,

(instead this Heavyweighted brass one I did before)





I obtained an Aluminium Elbow for the P.C.V. Valve:
(it is Not necessary, could be Directly Connected, but I Like it)




5. Add a New 3/8" Opening, welding a Plug with Brass, to the Air Filter Box Base. 

I took a Photo of it, to show you the two openings, which are intended for:


 The one on the Left was added by me; is for the "Pressure Relief" detour. 

....(This will be explained below)


 The one on the Right, is the straight 5/8" opening, which goes to the above

....described Elbow(Also this will be explained below. Keep Reading)







6. Enough Clamps, for each Hose's end.  :D 


7. New intake Manifold's Gaskets and Bolts.


8. Rubber caps for closing the unused vacuum ports at the intake manifold.





I Reinstalled the intake Manifold using the Original Subaru Gaskets.


Prior to Install them, I Smeared both sides with a Light Coat of Ultra Cooper Silicone:






Forget About Crappy Aftermarket gaskets and you'll Avoid Future Problems.


Also I changed the Worn-out Old Screws that held the intake manifold in place,


with Newer ones (Found at the Local NAPA)which are Steel reinforced and Rust proof,


which are 8 mm X 80 mm X 1.25 Pitch:




In my Case I added an (optional) Oil Catch Can.   :D 



As I wrote in previous posts, and in other threads:


My White Wagon isn't White AnymoreI Painted it in Yellow Colour as I explained hereLighter tone than my Other Yellow Wagon (the Dead 2.7)but this one has Black Stripes, and many mods...



Now you will See how all this Stuff ends Together...

P.C.V. Hoses Goes as Follow:

(Remember: these explanations are referenced for the LHD models)



First - The Driver's (right) Side Head Opening, goes to the P.C.V. Valve at the intake Manifold, use enough 5/8" Hose, but you must place the "T" with the 3/8" detour for the "Pressure Relief"  inbetween, then place enough 3/8" Hose, directly from said "Tdetour, to the added 3/8" Opening on the Air Filter's Box base.



(In my case, the Oil Catch Can is in that same 5/8" hose Route as well, if you don't need one, use a Direct Hose)






Last - The Passenger's (left) Side Head 5/8" Hose goes directly to the Air Filter Box.







► Vacuum Lines Goes as Follows:


  1. Use a Vacuum Hose, from the Front of the Weber's Right Port, to the Advance on the Distributor. (this is a Progressive Vacuum Port)
  2. Use the Proper Vacuum Hose, from the intake manifold, to the Brake Booster.
  3. Use another Vacuum Hose, from the intake Manifold, to the A/C vacuum accumulator Bottle.



Important Notes:


The accumulator bottle under the Windshield, at the engine bay, behind the Passenger's side strut Tower (on LHD Models) is used to provide stable vacuum for the A/C buttons on the Dashboard and also for engaging the 4WD mode on the models equiped with Push-Button transmission. So, if your subie doesn't have that kind of Transmission nor A/C, you can simply omit to connect that third vacuum line.


The E.G.R. System: Is it necessary? ... Well, the answer will depend on your area's Laws against pollution and what will be needed to stay in the car in order to pass emmissions; but that E.G.R. design is unhealthy for the EA82, that is the reason why the Subaru Engineers removed it from the third gen Heads.


But if you want to keep it and make it work as close as it should, the front of the weber carburetor has two pipes that provides vacuum, the one on the Right side which is Progressive, is intended for the distributor's advance; while the pipe on the Left side, provides vacuum until the engine is at higher RPM's, when the Secondary (high) stage of the carburetor is activated; so it is intended to be hooked at the E.G.R. Valve.


So, you can run a fourth vacuum line directly from said front-left port on the Weber Carburetor, to the EGR Valve at the intake manifold, to make the E.G.R. system, operative.


The A.S.V. System needs to be Removed, so the rest of the Openings on the Exhaust, shall be Closed, otherwise your engine bay will become Noisy from exhaust...


 Don't forget to cap Close all the unused ports at the intake manifold:excl: 

#897956 Improved Shock Absorbers and Spring Coils on Loyales

Posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo on 28 March 2010 - 05:58 AM

Suspension Improvements

For the third Gen Subaru Leone 
(also known as: DL, GL, GL-10, RX, RS, GT, GTi, ST, Omega, Winner, Loyale Royale and even as Isuzu Gemminett II,

depending on the Market, but here will be referred to, as the "EA82" for easy reference.)  




Please note that this writeup is intended to give you ideas to make stronger the Suspension, intended for rude use / offroad \ heavy loads; it gains a Sporty feeling, but the suspension could become harder, remember: Use this ideas at your own Risk!


In this Writeup:


Shock Absorbers and Coil Springs.

Alternative ones from non-Subaru cars.

Their part numbers.

Photos.   :) 


My dad purchased this 1985 Subaru Wagon new that year; I've done regular maintenance and lots of repairs since then; when this subie became mine, I did many modifications and named it: the "BumbleBeast" 


I've Been part of this Great Club since year 2001 and I've Learned a Lot (mainly here, in this Awesome Website) about how to fix and improve many Things, but I personally have Discovered by myself, many other things about those older subie Models, That I've Shared here with you, like the following suspension ideas... Let's begin!




First Part


modifying the Suspension with other cars' Parts:





About The REAR Suspension:


In my own humble opinion, the subaru's weakest suspension part is the Rear shock absorbers; no matter how careful I drive, if I hit a pothole with some Load on the car, is almost sure that a Rear shock absorber will say Good Bye...


Those are somehow, the "Achilles Heel" of the Subie:



The trail arms, of the front wheel drive (2WD) Subarus, have a different mounting point (perch) for the Shock Absorbers than their four wheel drive (AWD) counterparts, as you can see in the following photos: 


The 2WD ones mounts the shock absorbers in the position where normally goes the constant velocity joint (Axle)...




...while 4WD ones have the said mounting point, raised,

two inches higher on their trail arms, to let the axle pass.





So, Subaru made two different Rear Shock Absorbers for the EA82: The Front wheel drive (2WD) Models' Shock Absorbers, has the base plate for the coil spring, welded to their bodies, two inches (2") Higher than the four wheel drive (AWD) ones, to compensate the lower mounting point (perch) on the trail arm; and both models use Same Coil Spring.



2WD  .Vs.  4WD


Using a 2WD shock absorber, on a 4WD subie, will lift the rear, due to the Higher position of the Coil spring's base.


Then Subaru Suddenly changed the Production of those two, for one "Universal" Rear Shock absorber, which featured Adjustable Base for the Coil Springs, so you can place said base Up or Down (2" of Difference) and also included a "Middle" (1") Position; Despite the Coil Spring's Base position, the Total damper travel of those "Universal" Subaru Rear Shock absorbers, is 160 mm / 6.3" inches.



Here is a Photo of said "Universal" Rear Shock Absorber,

with Part Number and KYB equivalence:






The Subaru Part Number for the Spring Coil's Base (seat) is: 21025GA230





But those Rear Shock Absorbers are Still Weak to handle our Horrid Roads, plenty of Potholes -and even Potholes inside the Potholes- with my Loaded Subaru "BumbleBeast", especially during my Usual offroad Weekend Mountain Travels; and I wanted my Subie to be Taller without a Lift kit in the Rear.



Chapter 1:

How to Improve the Rear Suspension:

First I Needed Stronger Coil Springs for the Rear of my Wagon, because Usually I Travel with it Fully Loaded and many people in our very Bad Roads; also I do many Weekend "Mountain Adventure" Family Travels offroading; so, let me explain my own Method for searching and finding suitable replacements:


I took off one of the Old Rear coil springs in order to take measurements of it with my vernier scale (Caliper Tool known here as "Pie de Rey" = King's Foot), and then I carried it as a Sample for comparison purposes, to the local Junk Yards; then I searched, and searched for suitable replacements, among piles of coil springs and strut assemblies, found on many different local Junk Yards, called here "Yonkers" as you can see in the following photo:




Honduran Yónkers are different from the regular PaP(pull a Part) or any other USA version of a Junk Yard; they receive the cars and disassemble everything; sending the unuseful things such like crashed metallic bodies and cracked plastics to the Recyclers; and then they classifies everything in Areas so, you can find in a Latin American Yónker, one area dedicated solely to Doors, other area dedicated to Engines, other areas for Starters, Alternators, Seats, Headlamps, Struts, Mirrors, Transmissions, etc, etc, etc, let me share with you a photo of a typical Latin American Yónker (Junk Yard):




I went there carrying my Vernier Scale and made annotations of the Measurements found on the Coil Springs that could be suitable replacements; then I came home, contrasted those measurements and researched online further information regarding those coil springs that I found to be as possible candidates; because they don't only need to have similar size and shapes; they must be of similar capabilities.


The variables that I compare, are their MeasurementsSpring RatesLoad Rates and Wire Diameters, to find the perfect ones for the application. I wanted taller coil springs with similar diameter and shape, but with increased load rate / spring rate, under certain margin, because you can not go too stiff nor too soft on them, otherwise the stability and safety of the car would get compromised.


So after many search and research, I found that the Subie's Rear Coil Springs are almost the Same Size, Tall and Wide than the Honda Accord's Front Coil Springs (1986 ~ 1989) but the Honda ones have Thicker wire and it has Two More Turns than the Subie ones; so I Swapped the Rear Subaru Coil Springs with the Honda Front ones; it Makes the Subie More Capable to Manage the extra Weight when is Loaded, without going too low; also the Honda's Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear in two inches (2") and its Movement & Handling while Driving in Unpavemented Roads / Pot Holes, becomes Firmer and Sportier. So they gets rid from the Bouncing and Saggy Butt.

The Front Honda's Coil Springs that Fits on the Subaru's Rear, came from the 1986 ~ 1989 Honda Accord, (The Prelude from that Era has them too) it could come either from the Manual or Automatic, With or Without A/C, but Keep in mind that the Hondas with manual trans and without AC, does have weaker Coil Springs than the Hondas with Auto Trans and A/C, so I chose the Stiffer ones.  


The Part Number for the Honda's Coil Springs, is:

~►  MOOG CC248    for "Moog" Brand.

~►  NCP 2775298   for "Napa" Brand.




So, How to get Rid of those weak Rear Shock Absorbers?


My Subie was in dire need of Stronger Rear Shock Absorbers, so after Searchin' and Researchin' a Lot using "my own method" that I explained above, I Found This permanent and simple Solution:




To Swap the Toyota 4Runner's Front Shock Absorbers in the Place of the Subaru's Rear ones!


(Despite that this two photos says: "Subaru 4WD" the shock absorber shown on them, are "Subaru 2WD" the ones with taller spring perch. Sorry, that was an involuntary mistake while editing the photos on a hard day's late night...)

As you can See in these Photos, the Toyota ones has the Same extended Tallness than the Subaru Ones; Also the Toyota ones has the Same Wide Base for the Coil Spring and they use almost the Same Design; But the Toyota Ones are Thicker and Heavier, have a thicker bar, they're more Capable to manage the Stress of Riding in my Crazy Country Roads, especially for offroading with a Fully Loaded Subaru Wagon.




(Subaru 2WD shock absorbers shown on this photo)


The Subie Ones had their Threaded top of Nº 10 mm and the Hole opening on their Base is for a Nº 10 mm Screw; While the 4Runner ones has them Nº 12 mm Screws; So the Subie's Nut on the Base for Nº 10 mm Screw had to be Removed in order to Use a Pass-Thru Nº 12 mm Screw with its own Nut and locking washer.



The Subie's Part for the Shock Absorber's Top shall be Modified too, in order to Accept the Nº 12 mm Screw Size instead the Older Nº 10 mm One,  I Just made the Hole Larger; pretty easy;) 



For Those who want the 4Runner's Shock Absorber Part Number, it is: 




~►  KYB 341232

in KYB (Kayaba) Japanese Brand



The salesman from the Aftermarket parts store where I purchased those KYB 341232 Shock absorbers, said that those are for the Front of a Toyota 4Runner for the 1998 model year; However, Toyota used the same platform and shared these shock absorbers in the Hi-Lux Surf, and the Land Cruiser Prado / Colorado (J90) Which is a very Popular car here, in LADM (Latin American Domestic Market).


The Following is a Screen Caption of a website that I Saved long time ago, where you can find the Original Toyota's Part Numbers for their OEM Shock Absorbers...



According to online databases, it does interchange with:


~► Monroe  D8344 


~► Sachs  230631


~► BOGE  27-D67-A



I Tested the KYB 341232 onlyany other Toyota Shock Absorber could be "Visually" Identical, but might have some differences, such like even shorter travel, Harder ride, Thicker Body, etc ... So I Kindly suggest you to Stick to the KYB Part Number I Provided, I can not guarantee to work the other ones... 


My Subaru "BumbleBeast" Runs very well with that Setup: 

Toyota Shock Absorbers + Honda Coil Springs in the Rear,

since many, many years ago...




...despite that they has only 4.3" of total damper Travel.

(as I wrote above, the Subaru rear Shock Absorbers has 6.3")


But that shorter travel is not an issue, because the Coil Springs won't let it go down more than 4" under compression, and the total expanded -extended- lenght is Equal to the Subaru's ones, as you can see in the photos above.



In case you need to do a Rear Alignment on these Subaru Models,

here is the Factory Guide about how to do that:





 IMPORTANT NOTE: You can use the 4Runner's shocks along with the subaru coil springs, to keep the original height of the suspension. If you use the Honda coil springs, the rear suspension will be lifted two inches (2"), stressing the angle of the rear axles in 4WD (AWD) models only. (You might drop the rear differential a little to compensate the lift) The 2WD (FWD) models doesn't have any problem with that configuration.



LEVELING ISSUE: Since Those front Honda Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear two inches (2"); after that Swap, I had to Lift the front of my "BumbleBeast" an equal amount to compensate, using lift blocks, as you can read the complete information and see many photos about that, ~► Here, but also, below you'll see a photo of said lift blocks already installed.



About The FRONT Suspension:



The 4WD (AWD) Shock Absorbers has a 5.75" / 147 mm in Total damper travel, While 2WD (FWD) Shock Absorbers has a 6.12" / 155 mm in Total damper travel. Since I couldn't find any 2WD (FWD) Shock absorbers locally, I installed into my "BumbleBeast"new Monroe Front Shock Absorbers for the XT; this are their part Numbers:


Passenger Side: ~► 71876


.................Driver Side: ~► 71877









Chapter 2:

How to Improve the Front Suspension:


Next, I wanted to install Firmer Coil Springs for the Front of my Subaru, as I already did on the Rear, to have equal balance of handling and sportier feeling (Harder / sportier Suspension).


Initially, I searched for stiffer Coil Springs for the Front of this models of Subaru, on year 1999; Because my 2.7 Wagon (now dead) Project, had the Heavyweighed ER27 engine, plus a Fiberglass & Metal sheet Reinforced Front Bumper; I Needed Something Stronger than the EA82's coil Springs to better carry that extra weight.


So, using  "my own method which I described with details above; I Found that a suitable replacement are the front coil springs from a Ford Tempo; which looked pretty similar to the Subaru ones, but having around two more Turns and a thicker wire.

I found those Tempo Coil springs on year 1999, already taken outside their car; (they only had a Mark done with white paint marker on them, that said: '94 Tempo) and originally I used them on my Loyale 2.7 wagon project; but since it is dead (More info, ~► Here) I decided to remove certain parts from it to make my EA82 Weberized Wagon (Now renamed as the BumbleBeast) a Better car, with the Better parts from the two; including the front Tempo coil Springs. 


So, I installed those Tempo's Coil Springs on the front of my "BumbleBeast" and those add to the Front Suspension the Same Firm & Sporty Feeling that the Rear suspension obtained with the Above written Modifications.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Spring's total radius -diameter- is Half inch (½") smaller than the Subaru ones, but that is Not a problem, I Drive my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with them since Years ago and they doesn't "Shift" nor make any clunk noise. Somehow these front coil springs from the Ford Tempo, aids to keep the Camber / alignment within specs; other coil springs that has been tested on the front of these Subarus, makes the camber to be even Worse...


Further information on the subject, photos and even a Video can be found, ~► Here.

(thank you Bryan Dudas / Subaru Adventures \ Anderson Design and Fabrication, for your kind words) Thumbup.jpg

According to the info I obtained back then from the Junk Yard's salesman, the Front coil Springs came off a basic 1990's "Second Gen" Ford Tempo with in-line 4 Cylinder engine and manual transmission; Those are "Non-Progressive" Coils, so they measure the Same between each turn. I searched on internet for The Part Number for those Ford Tempo Front Coil Springs,


So those should be:

~►   MOOG CC854    for "Moog" Brand.

~►   NCP 2775375   for "Napa" Brand.






These are the Lift Blocks I had to use in the Front, to compensate the Rear Lift,


as I explained in the "Leveling issue" note, written above:




IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Springs I used, came out from a used 4 cylinder Tempo, so they were used and not as Stiff as brand New coil Springs, so I didn't had any fitment problems nor had to trim them; but People who has brought those Coil Springs brand new, had to Trim them up to 1.5 Turns, especially the Moog CC856 because those are "Progressive" which means that they has different spaces between coils and they're intended for heavier V6 Automatic Tempos, and are even Stiffer than the Moog CC854 I Used, so I don't recommend to use those uncut, they might be too stiff for the Subaru.






Also, I found that the Front Coil Springs from the Kia Sephia (first and second generation), are almost identical to the front coil springs on the Subaru Loyale; but the Kia Sephia ones have a thicker wire (around 2 mm) and the Sephia ones have a slightly bigger total radius, but they fit on the Subaru's shock absorbers; and the Sephia ones have an increased load capabilities. Let me Show you:








They're almost identical, here are the Sephia's ones, Load Capabilities:




Even the first gen Sephia, has an increased load ratio than the second gen Sephia.





The ideas in this writeup are for those who are interested in Improving the Suspension of their Subies (Specially for Off-Roading), let me Tell you again that this Mods are intended for a More Rude Use and Longer Lasting Parts; not for Confort; so be adviced that the Ride will become Harder.


Despite that, I use my lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as daily driver on city roads & Highways during weekdays (60% usage) and offroading on Weekends (40% usage) on our usual "Mountain Adventure" travels with my Family + Luggage, toys, food, etc...






...to Drive my Modified Subie with those 4Runner Shock Absorbers + Accord's Coil Springs in the Rear, and the Subaru XT Shock Absorbers + the Tempo's Coil Springs in the Front, Changes the Handling & Feeling of the Subie in the same way you'll notice while Driving a Police Car after being Driving the Civil Version of it before.



I've Test Drove it Unloaded and Loaded, up to 160 KPH (100 MPH) in Highways...





...Bad Pavemented Roads and gravel off roads...





...and it Feels Really AWESOME!


... :D ... 


but rides Pretty Hard to be a "Family Wagon" anymore.


Please see further details on the Second Part of this Writeup, below!

#1257334 USMB-now managed by my company RetroRoo

Posted by ShawnW on 06 November 2014 - 06:49 PM

For the past 2-4 years donations have really tapered off.  Add to that the cost of our hosting and software has increased.  In the past 2 years my shop has essentially paid for more than 3/4 of the cost of running the site to a total cost between $1000-1500.  


Moving forward I will be adding items to the USMB store from my company RetroRoo as well as our company logo to the banner on the site.  This will not be invasive as I know how you all feel about ads and frankly I feel the same way about them.  


If there is a product that you think we can get and you want it added to the store please by all means ask.  I am all about making this a positive thing for you guys and my shop and not here to make a fortune but I do need to recoup the costs and keep the site free to use.  


With a little luck and the support of the users here we can keep the site virtually free and maybe even add features to make it better.  





#1219401 How the hell did this happen?

Posted by ivans imports on 19 March 2014 - 10:53 AM

Happens to me all the time so I got rid of wife and kept Subarus

#1149171 WE ARE FAMOUS

Posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo on 25 February 2013 - 08:21 PM

Hey! ... :D  ... What a Surprise!


Many thanks to the Article's Author and to Nipper to post that Here; it is a Great unexpected Honor for Me, which has brighten my Day;


This Honduran Subaru Nut Writes Awesome How-To Manuals  :P


I'm Really Thankful and that motivates me to Continue contributing with my Writeups ... :) ...


Kind Regards.

#1068519 How to Determine which is the Best Motor Oil for your car

Posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo on 21 February 2012 - 01:09 PM

In this Article:


Understanding Motor Oils


Understanding Classification and Nomenclature


♪♫ How to Wisely chose between the Manufacturers given numbers


♫♫ Differences between Mineral and Syntetic Oils, and types of Syntetics


♫♪♫ and Much More!





Motor Oils, Basically Does all these Things:

First: Engine Oil stops all the Metal surfaces in your Engine from Grinding together and Shearing themselves from Friction, by Lubricating its internals.

► Second: Engine Oil transferes the Heat away from the Combustion cycle.

► Third: Engine Oil must also be able to Hold in Suspension all the Nasty by-products of combustion, such as Silica (silicon oxide) and Acids, also External contamination, such as Dust.

► Fourth: Engine Oil minimises the Exposure to Oxygen and thus prevents Oxidation at Higher temperatures.

It does all of these things under Tremendous Heat and Pressure... :Flame:


Part one: the Proper Viscosity & Thickness 

(SAE GradeRecommended for your engine.


SAE = Means a Standard of the Society of Automotive Engineers.

Remember: The viscosity of a fluid describes its resistance to flow. Heavyweighted fluids such as honey have high viscosity and flow very slowly, while Lightweighted fluids such as water have a low viscosity and flow much faster under the same conditions & temperatures. But in the Motor oil World, Viscosity is somewhat confused with Thickness, and those are two different things with different meanings.
Viscosity depends strongly on temperature and is a major factor in the Flow of the oils. In example, the specification “10W~30 (“W” means “winter”) in a motor oil means the viscosity of the oil at 0º C (32º F) is no more than 3.1 poise while the viscosity at 100º C (212º F) is no less than 0.1 poise.
Thickness of the oil is about the oil Barrier it could lay, between moving metallic parts to prevent Shearing; not about the Flow. It is the "cushion" that bears the friction between metal parts, the thicker number means thicker "cushion".
Obviously, hot oil will flow better than cold oil.

Multigrade oils have the ability to get Thicker Molecules with heat to compensate their fluid's weight reduction due to heat exposure; in example: A 10W~30 Oil will behave as a grade "10" oil does at Ambient Temperatures, and will become thicker and behave as a grade "30" oil does on heat, when the engine reaches its normal operating temps.
So those oils with a "W" on their SAE Grade, are "Multigrade" Oils, (W for Winter times) their first number on their SAE grade is the "cool temperatures" number: Thinner oil helps to the engine's oil pump to move the oil faster during cold starts when engine is Cool and thus means less shearing by friction during cold starts. But the Oil's molecules will become thicker with heat, so the same oil will behave as the Second Number, intended for "hot temperatures" on their SAE Grade, when the engine Reaches its Normal operating Temps, in order to have enough protective oil film "Cushion" between moving metal parts and prevent shearing.
Want to learn How the Oil "Thickness" protective layer prevents Shearing on your Engine? ... Download the .pdf file document at the Bottom of this Page, you can see tests' results with Photos on it.

That oil barrier thickness increases with Heat due to the Polymers that where added to the Oil, those absorb temperatures; also Thinner Oils will increase the Oil Pressure on the engine and that is really needed on Cold Starts, to help the Oil to Reach the Farther engine's places, Faster. :burnout:


How do Multigrade oils get Thicker with heat? 


The answer was given by Mobil 1:


"Multi–viscosity oils contains polymers called viscosity modifiers and these polymers act to thicken an oil as it heats up in order to provide the hightemperature viscosity as in the case of a 5W-30, the 30 grade high temperature viscosity. When these molecules cool they coil up and reduce their thickening properties to give you the low temperature starting and pumping viscosity of 5W oil. That is how the oil can act as a 5W-(low temperature) 30 (high temperature) multi-viscosity oil."


Here: ~► http://www.mobiloil....icker_Oils.aspx

 Monograde Oils (Single SAE Number) will not vary at all and will behave the same at all the temperatures' range; unless it becomes Very hot, when its Thickness 'Could be' Reduced, it is known as "Oil Break Down"... (more noticeable on Cheap brands with poor Quality) ...That is the inverse situation and could be Harmful for a Very Hot Operating or for an Overheating Engine: That oil under that conditions could Lost its main Lubricating Properties.  :( 

I Really advice against the use of Monograde oils on Cars, because they Won't flow properly on Cold Starts, remember: Those parts that worns faster inside the Engine are those parts that doesn't get Oil fast enough with Proper Pressure; so a Multigrade Oil will Reduce both the Time working without Oil on Cold Starts and the low Pressure.  :) 

Monograde oils could still be good for Power Plants, 18 wheels' trucks, etc... But Not ideal for a Car's engine. Keep the Proper SAE Grade in Mind when you Buy your Next Oil.

Be Careful with the Viscosity Grade!

The Oil Pumps only creates flow, not Pressure; the Pressure exists due to the Resistance on the engine's internals to such Flow; and the hydrodynamic film strength is what prevents metal to metal Shearing.

A thicker oil will increase oil pressure in any engine, but only to a point, due to the Oil Pressure Relief Valve that will simply route oil back to the pan after Reaching certain pressure on the System.

So, since Pressure is resistance to flow, a 20W~50 motor Oil will increase pressure, but it means that it does not flow as well through the bearings nor to the top of the motor, causing the Low Pressure problems, let me explain:

Considering that a 20W~50 oil is 3 to 4 times thicker cold than a 5W~30, when a Cold engine is Started, there will be Restricted oil Flow where it is needed the Most: the oil relief valve will Cut the flow further by opening at the higher pressure and dumping oil back into the pan. 

In some engines it will take Longer for the oil to get to the cam shafts, and the Small diameter hole in the middle does not facilitate the Flowing to the high viscosity oil. Since the oil flows from Front to Rear on the cam shafts, it is going to take the last Cylinder valves the Longest to get the oil Flow Needed. The oil squirters spray pattern on the cylinder walls will degrade with a high viscosity oil, especially in cold conditions.

While a thinner motor oil keeps the pressure in the upper engine, because the pressure is less than the oil relief valve's top pressure, and the system gets well presurized faster.




Part Two: The Motor Oil's Quality.

The American Petroleum institute API Has Two ways to classify Motor Oils: the Gasoline Motor Oils are clasified under the "S" Letter (From "Spark" combustion engine) While Diesel engine oil is clasified under the "C" Letter (From "Compresor" Combustion engine)

The API has a program to certify that the Motor oils, meets the strict Performance and quality standards put in place by the OEM. The Service Rating is shown in the API Service Seal on the product label, that may look like one of these examples:



So, The letter that follows the "S" or the "C" will let you know if the Additives Package (Detergents, Dispersants, Stabilizers, etc... ) is Better or Worse for your application. Any Letter from "A" to "Z" could be next to the "S" or "C" Letter, the more Newer Classification will place a higher Letter there, as Follows:

      GASOLINE motor oils must read as Follows:

  • SA = Early -older- motor Oils, Very Basic and without any Additive. (then the classification continued with: SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, SH... etc...)
  • SN = Very Recent Classification, includes a Complete Additive Package for Gasoline Engines under the APi Norm.

      DIESEL motor oils must read as Follows:

  • CF = -or any other Letter instead the "F" like "H", etc.- (Could have a Number 2 or 4 Next to it) The CF or CF-4 are for regular Four Stroke Diesel engines, while CF-2 oils are for especial Two Stroke Diesel engines.




Beware of those Cheap oils, usually with unknown brand, due to their Lowest quality, in example this one, despite of being "Made in Usa" is the worst thing to happen to any engine, besides of running out of oil:





Important Note: if a DIESEL Motor Oil has, Beside its CF or CG or CH Diesel oil APi classification, any "S" Classification, you could pour it also on a Gasoline Engine, and those kind of oils are commonly known as "Fleet Oils" ... in fact I've been using 15W~40 Fleet Oil from Chevron, the  "Delo 400 since many years ago in my Wife's EFi car, with excellent results, because those kind of oils has a very High value of Zinc, which is really needed to prevent wear, especially in older engines, while a Standard "Gasoline Only" motor oil, might comply with the same APi Class, but lacking the needed Zinc additive.
But if the Diesel Motor Oil Doesn't have any "S" (such like SL or SH or SM) APi Classification, then Avoid pouring it onto ANY Gasoline engine, those are "Diesel-Only" motor oils.

I Kindly Suggest you to Check ANY Motor oil to see if it has the Round Seal from the API ... as the above posted Examples. And the Proper SAE Grade inside that Seal's Circle.

If you Pour a "Diesel Only" Oil in a Gasoline Engine, it could be somehow Harmful for the Gasoline Engine, due to the lack of the especific additives for this kind of engine; While the Diesel Oils which also carries the gasoline motor oil Additives Pack included,
(usually known as "Fleet" Oils) are Very Good and Outstanding Oils for Gasoline Engines, they also add "Zinc" to the Additive pack, that normally a "Gasoline-Only" motor oil, lack to have.

On the Other Hand: if you Pour just "Gasoline only" Non-diesel motor oil on a Diesel engine, the Oil will be Blackened almost inmediately and will fail for Proper Lubrication and Protection of the Metallic Surfaces, Beside other malfunctions; because the Gasoline oil will absorb the Harmful particles that Diesel Combustion filter to the oil and it couldn't manage those, because Gasoline Motor Oils aren't intended for such contamination.

The newest Service category Rating for Gasoline engines in 2012 model year cars and light trucks is SN

The API SN rating is equivalent to the new GF-5 oil rating by the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee "ILSACthe new SN and GF-5 rated motor oils are backward compatible and can be used in any older engines.

For Diesel engines, The current category is “CJ-4
(introduced in 2007 for newer diesels that have exhaust gas recirculation). The previous CI-4 (2002), CH-4 (1998) CG-4 (1995) and CF-4 (1990) categories all can be used in older four-stroke diesel engines. CF-2 (1994) is the API classification for two-stroke Diesels.



Part Three: Synthetic Motor Oils.


Synthetic Motor Oil... It's a confusing topic, and there's a lot of Rhetoric, largely Because some Manufacturers and Peddlers of Synthetics have made a lot of inaccurate and self-serving claims over the years. Some, actually a lot, of this Rhetoric is pretty Strident and Opinionated.

The problem that Most People encounter when switching a High Mileage car to Synthetic Oils, is due to the Detergents in the synthetic oil.

The conventional oil "Gunk" accumulates Around the Gaskets and other Places, often times preventing leaks... The Synthetic oil begins to Remove this "Gunk" and things like Oil Pan Gaskets, Main Seals, and Valve Cover Gaskets, start to Leak oil.

Now there are "High Mileage" Syntetic motor oils, so the Leakage problem could be, somehow, controlled ... :rolleyes: ... But another thing to Consider is, Based on your Car's year model and type of cam / lifter configuration... a Roller Cam system works fine with Synthetic oil; However, with the removal of Zinc from Engine Oils over the last few years, many Flat Tappet Cams have been unhappy with this change.

Most Synthetic oils Doesn't contain Enough Zinc and are Not additive friendly
... :mad: ...(that is the reason why I preffer Diesel + Gasoline -fleet- Motor Oils: They do have Zinc, as I stated above).

Briefly, there are Two Types of "synthetic" Oils on the market.

► Group IV oils consist of Molecules that are synthesized from simpler chemical compounds. This lets the Chemical Engineers to "tune" the characteristics of a lubricant to exact specifications.

These oils are "Fully Syntetic" and flows more Freely at extreme Low temperatures and don't Break Down at very High temperatures; also they generally can be specified one or two grades Lighter than a mineral oil, which consumes less energy and saves Fuel.
(Energy Conserving Oils)

► Group III Oils are made from Reprocessed petroleum products normally left over after making Crude oil into Gasoline, Diesel fuel, Heating oil and other products... so they're "Half Syntetic" oils, or Syntetic Blends.

They're more modestly priced and have many of the desirable characteristics of the higher-priced Spread. In much of the World outside the USA, Group III-based lubricants are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic."

Don't assume that if is a Synthetic Oil, it is so Good...
(Read: very Expensive) ...that you don't need to Change it as often. The base lubricant may be way Better, but the Additive package... (which can be as Much as 25 percent of the Volume of the Product in a Bottle) ...can still Become Exhausted, especially if you drive on Dirty / Muddy \ Dusty enviroments, due to Oil Contamination.

Also: Unburned Fuel, Partially Burned Hydrocarbons, Atmospheric Dirt, Metal Wear Particles and Blowby Carbon Particles will Build Up just as fast in a Synthetic-Lubricated engine as in one with petroleum-based oil ... :( ...

The Only Way to Remove all that dirt & contamination is to Drain and Replace the oil.

I've always recommended 3000-Mile oil Change intervals in offroading driving conditions, despite if you run Synthetic oil or not, and much more extended mileage for City Drivers.

So, with that facts in Mind, To switch to Syntetic motor oils on older engines intended for the Average Driving needs, does Not make any sense; Those syntetic oils are Better for Newer engines...
(with Closer tolerances and better PCV systems which keep their oils Cleaner) ...or when the Car is build for Race or Special purposses; but otherwise if you offroad frequently, or drive in dirty enviromants, you'll be Wasting a lot of Money unnecesary, because you'll need to Drain the Oil around each 3000 Miles to keep the Oil with proper Lubrication and the Engine internals safely clean.



Part Four: Motor Oil Flush.

Prior to change your old oil, if you want to switch from a mineral oil to a synthetic oil, I kindly Suggest to use a Motor Oil Flush Cleaner in high mileage engines, especially if you use your car for Offroading purposses or drive in very dirty enviroments. I use this from Motul on my BumbleBeast's Weberized EA82 engine, because I Drive it very Hard, 40% off-Roading (on weekends) and 60% in City Streets (is my Daily Driver), it keeps the tiny oil passages, especially those on the Hydraulic Lifters, very clean.



It is Amazing how many Mud, sludge and Dirt those Cleaners could Remove from the Engine, especially if you has never used one and the engine has high mileage. You only need to pour a Bottle to the Old oil Just before changing it, and let the engine idle for ten Minutes... (Follow the Directions on the Motor Flush Bottle, it might vary on Different Brands) ...then Flush the old Oil, change the old oil filter, pour fresh oil and Voilá!

But I Kindly Suggest you to Not do such Detergent Flush 
frequently; if you do this cleansing too often, some seals could suffer a leak due to several reasons which includes: Attack from chemical agents and / or too much Gunk removed. If you Drain your engine's old Oil on a Regular Basis and use good quality oil, there shall not be needed a Chemical Motor Flush, in theory ... but every some years / high mileage isn't bad at all, and could aid to the engine's longevity while keepin' the internals and tiny oil passages / hydraulic lifters more clean.

I Hope this Writeup will Help you to determine which motor oil is the best for your engine, because Motor oils Shall not be Choosen by Brand nor Marketing, but by the API Classification and SAE Grade considering the Specific Application where they're Needed and the temperatures where they shall work.
You must choose between the specs given by the manufacturer for Oil Viscosity, and also chose the Additive Pack that best fit your Engine's age & design, your Kind of Driving and the Climate of the World's area where you Live; so the Smart choice is always to choose the better motor oil to Achieve the proper Balance between flow, needed additive pack and usage, because a very Low Viscosity motor oil will help you to save Gas (Energy Conserving) also will Help in Cold Starts in Cold Climates, but will worn faster the engine's internals on Hot Climates than a High Viscosity motor oil; but if you go too High, the low flow pressure during cold starts on Cold Climates will worn things faster too, and newer API Classifications, such like "SN" does Not carry enough Zinc to be safe on Older engines, such like the Subaru EA series of engines, in such case a "Fleet Oil" with enough Zinc is Highly recommended, es explained above.
That is the Reason Why car makers put some different Oil Viscosity Numbers to choose from, on their User's Manual; the Lower Viscosity oils are suitable for Winter times or Cold Climates, while the Higher Viscosity Oils are suitable for Summer Times or Hot Climates.

In example, these are Scans of my 1983 Subaru Owner's Manual:






Here in this case, you can notice that the Lower Viscosity motor Oil (5W~30) is Not recommended for Sustained High Speeds, nor for Turbo Engines; only for Severe Cold Winter times; the reason is that said SAE number is a lower viscosity oil which will not fight enough the shearing on Turbo engines, nor on conventional engines during Hot Climates, or sustained high speeds in this particular EA engines.
However, Newer engines with closer tolerances usually "Needs" lower viscosity numbers and thus explain the need of SAE grades such like 0W~20 in example... If you pour higher viscosity number on those Newer engines, the oil will not Flow as intended, nor reach the pressure and areas where is needed, so pouring a High viscosity numbered oil could be Dangerous in certain cases.


Always follow the Manufacturer's given numbers, and chose Wisely.






I Found an important Document which have a Professional Oil Test, done between some Different oil Brands and between Petroleum Based Oils and Synthetic Oils; they compare the Wear from Shearing on a metallic part after the Test, using each Brand of Oil with same procedures for all; it has Pictures, so you can Easily "See" which oil has the Worse (weak) protective cushion / Film Layer and which oil has Better (Stronger) Protective cushion / Film Layer, between metallic moving parts, so you can better have a better idea.


You can Download the Document, a .pdf File with less than 5 Mb, Here:



~► http://www.mediafire...lrm2am5vaxk2wob




Finally, if you find useful information on my article, 


Please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button, :D

Kind Regards.

#1245137 West Coast Subaru Show 16 Photo Thread

Posted by Vegablade on 17 August 2014 - 05:27 PM

Figured we should have a thread dedicated to all the pictures from this years West Coast Subaru Show.


I'll start with this and upload more later.




And This


#1267958 Subaru Ambassador?

Posted by nipper on 11 January 2015 - 03:02 PM

Do they pay in Head Gaskets?

#1275165 Ruby Scoo - the whole story! Loads of pics! Australian L series build

Posted by el_freddo on 04 March 2015 - 08:22 AM

I thought it time to share my full L series build - I had a thread in the welcome forum, but since writing this out recently I thought it a good time to move over here.  Some of you will already know this vehicle...  This is the short version ;)
I purchased Ruby Scoo from Yackandandah, VIC, Australia (google it!) in 2004 or 2005 for $500.  What we didn't know was that the engine was toast - over heated to the point that one cylinder was cracked about halfway down.
After some research I found that the EA82 engine came in EFI format, so went with one of these and had a steep learning curve into the operations of EFI systems.  Pick a part became my best friend here!  Problem was I lived over 1 hour away.
After a year in the shed she was ready for rego.  This is me learning some 4wd'n with a mate near Kangaroo Flat, Bendigo:
From here I had a few mods done - welded rear diff.  This was a good and bad mod as it gave the vehicle awesome point and shoot abilities but with the lack of lift I managed some damage to the underside of the body, I inverted my floor pans and didn't realise this for some time.
In 2007 I roadtripped to WA with my brother with a "fresh" 9 month old rebuild that was going really well:
SA/WA boarder:
Hit a new milestone while I was there:
And we had some fun too:
On the way home we (read: my brother!) blew the side out of the plastic radiator end tank on a hot day drive home.  We were stuck in Tintanara and were trucked home the next day.  After sorting a temporary radiator it turned out that the engine was severely cooked.
For 18 months I put up with a jerry-rigged carb engine over the MPFI wiring.  It got me around while I sorted all the bits for my EJ22 conversion - again pick a part played a huge role in this conversion - this time I got all the bits I needed the before getting into the conversion.  Cutting down the wiring was another steep learning curve and in hindsight quite easy to do, just need to know what you actually need and go from there.
I didn't do the HG's on the EJ as I bench tested the engine and was happy with how it operated.  When pulled from the yard it had 127xxxkms on the clock.  Turned out the clutch was completely fried.  All oil seals were replaced, cam belt replaced and I should have replaced the water pump - did it about a week after the conversion hit the road.
Easiest way to do the Engine and gearbox - out from under:
I cased an L series gearbox in a set of EJ front cases to avoid an adaptor plate and an EA clutch.  This conversion is all EJ clutch and bolts straight up without issues:
The initial test was a bit of fun in the paddock - I should've put the bonnet on though, it wasn't fun to clean!
All fits in like it should be there.  The L series should've come with the EJ from the factory, it's a great combination!
Out at Robe, SA:
After a chance purchase of a lifted L series, in one weekend the swap was done and Ruby Scoo grew to this:
More fun, Otways, VIC:
A few years down the track and a lot of searching I managed to track down a set of the infamous Scorpion 14 inch rims, these ones with the awesome general all rounder Wild Conqueror Super Trippers (can't get them anymore :():
Robe, SA:
Wyperfeld NP, VIC:
Lerderderg SF, VIC:
After two seasons at Mt Hotham and a 4wd'n trip with a "rally section" on the Dinner Plain Track south of the township I got Ruby Scoo airborne unintentionally.  Not realising for some time but I did some extensive damage to the suspension mount on the LHS.  Not ready to part with her I stripped her out and went to work between other things:
While everything was reinstalled I added power windows, mirrors and central locking.  That took a pot load more time than I anticipated and blew out the build time.  I would say this took me 6 months over the summer period to sort out and get back on the road.
Return to the road:
Getting back into the thick of it:  Mt Cole:
Getting out in the High Country with the Subaru Club of Qld (offroad club, can't remember their official title) - most of these guys are online mates from ausubi:
Basalt Knob South Tk before it was switchbacked:
Back at Mt Hotham for another visit (Love this place!)
New "trick" gearbox - L series AWD locking centre diff, front OBX (cheap!) LSD, 1.59:1 low range, low range oil feeders and 4.111:1 diff ratio (old box 3.7:1 stock ratio):
Diff locking mechanism:
This was an awesome mod - the diff ratio change has transformed the drive for the better.  The ratio matches the tyre size the same as the foresters run so it's a tried and tested setup, just not really done in an L series in this fashion on a regular basis.
I added a snorkel for added confidence during water crossings:
This was 2013.  For the christmas period we were planning another road trip to WA to catch up with some mates I made over there on the cruise in 2007.  Unfortunately after finally getting my AC sorted the Head Gaskets let go.  Not a bad run so I shouldn't complain - just the timing over the silly season slowed down the new parts arriving in a timely manner.  But she's sorted again and running very well.  First time I've had an EJ stripped down like this:
Where I think the HGs let go, wasn't major but enough to run hot on a warm day.  No damage resulted, money saved there :D
Back together sporting a new radiator conversion (N14 pulsar) and new thermo fans - a good setup so far:
Over Easter 2014 we ventured into new territory out at Walhalla in the foothills of the Vic Alps:
First real good use of snorkel - Fulton's Creek Tk, Walhalla:
Messing around, Fulton's Creek:
Trig Track - 12 switchbacks!
Loved this area and seriously cannot wait to get back out there!
Last trip most recently was to McKillop's Bridge (very speccie!) and the general Snowy River NP, VIC:
^ Pics do not do this bridge justice, it's very high, very long and has been flooded over several times!
I was with a "different" cohort for this trip with some mates in larger, "real" 4wds:
Ruby Scoo held her own:
Until I managed to blow 2nd gear coming off throttle on a down shift from third.  Nothing harsh about it.  From here it was a tow job, not fun!
Once back on a decent track - logging truck track - we decided to see if I could manage third, using low range as another gear.  This was done to avoid time delays, rocks flicking up and damaging the front of my vehicle and my newish windscreen.  It was noisy in the box but it kept going, at the time I was kind of past the point of caring.  After stopping for the others to catch up (I was rally style, they weren't!) we continued but I think it was too much, once the oil settled in the gearbox bits had moved.  At walking pace I ended up locking up all four wheels.  We were trailered from there, trailer came from Orbost. 
Then another type of towing occurred a week later:
^ These guys were great, they let me park up for a week in their yard very cheaply!  Near M&D's, not quite "home" though:
The gearbox came out at M&D's before I took the car home as I was itching to get it started.
Once the box was stripped we found this damage:
I've since sourced an SG forester gearbox for it's stronger internals as Subaru did a big overhaul on the 1st and 2nd gearsets in these boxes along with a few other things.  My bench looks like this as I work through the little hurdles that are thrown my way:
I've had to modify a few things along the way, the low range synchro hub being one of them:
Latest modification hurdle is the woodruff key for the 5th gear as I want to use the 0.87 ratio I've got in the shed, not the SG's 0.78 as that's what I used to have and I wasn't too keen on it at cruise:
That's where I'm at.  Using Redback (Brumby - more to come on this addition to the family!) as the daily which is what I got her for, but I can't wait to have Ruby Scoo back on the road and 4wd'n again.  I'm also working on some surface rust I've found since removing the gearbox, this is a slow process itself and work/family/social life is getting in the way too.  Weekends are not at home at the moment :(
I hope you've enjoyed reading and viewing the pics.  While writing this and looking at the large number of pics I've got I've surprised myself just how many places I've been with Ruby Scoo.  Many more pics if you want to view!  She's currently knocking on 500k kms...  I've had many great times out bush in this vehicle and I'm hoping there will be a number of years of more good times to come!  Just have to get it back together and out of the shed!!!

#1271932 Lots of Subaru Reprodution Decals (my new store)

Posted by Pooparu on 06 February 2015 - 07:36 PM

Finally got my store up. I hated ebay. Check it out and buy tons of stuff.





#1271416 What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it go...

Posted by Carl B. on 02 February 2015 - 11:36 PM

Made a cargo tray mat out of a large door mat from Home Depot.  Its super tough, made of recycled tires, and only $20.




I trimmed it down a little more since this pic so it sit flatter.


#1262192 The Awesome Older Generation Picture Thread

Posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo on 05 December 2014 - 01:30 PM





#1302554 Oil Stop Leak EA81 Yay or nay?

Posted by carfreak85 on 22 September 2015 - 12:35 PM

Never, EVER use a "stop leak" product of any kind.  FIX THE ROOT PROBLEM, don't throw a Band-Aid at it...

#1295406 Barn Find in Argentina Gen1 Brat

Posted by JuhaKankkunen on 24 July 2015 - 07:35 PM

…..18 years looking for a Brat in Argentina……i found this one in the countryside, 2 owners, 129000Km on it……I'm really happy!!!! Just put the key on it, and start running, almost 2 years of no use at all. Pre owner put a new battery, and that's all!!! We drove it home for 600 km without any problems!


Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr


Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr


Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr



#1272401 What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it go...

Posted by spazomatic on 09 February 2015 - 09:38 PM

While im here Loyale,
Id just like to say thanks.  Nowhere else on the 'net have i seen a more consistently helpful fellow.  Never a bad word or attitude; always just reaching out a helping hand with your knowledge to anybody who may need it.  
Mind you, Ive been helped a lot by very good people...but you seem to stand out as somebody eager to help.
I just thought to mention it
Happy trails
God Bless

#1251904 The Awesome Older Generation Picture Thread

Posted by Rust on 02 October 2014 - 01:06 PM


Took a group photo of my Active Duty fleet of Suraru's

#1243478 Automatic Transaxle Lubrication = the Differential

Posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo on 06 August 2014 - 02:23 PM

Automatic Transmissions'


With shared or independent Differential Lubrication.

Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays.

First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant.

Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission.

Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups:

First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually "Thins" the ATF
(getting Lower Viscosity) and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and many more.

Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense
(Getting Higher Viscosity), and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and many more.


Why is this very important?

Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period.







However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant.

So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those detergent ATF additives for short term use only, in example to do a chemical cleansing of the internals prior to do a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF.



Important Note: Not all the ATF in the market, has the same additive package nor are suitable for all the automatic transmissions; in fact, if you use the Wrong ATF, the Transmission might get damage, such like premature wear and shearing; Always follow the Manufacturer's recommendation on the Manual.


In my case, for my Wife's car which has a version of the 4EAT, I pour Valvoline's High Mileage ATF plus a quart of Lucas Transmission fix additive, and that combo makes the transmission to work smoothly and flawlessly; I do change all the Transmission ATF with said combo, on a yearly basis.


Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. :D


Kind Regards.

#1243038 What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it go...

Posted by MilesFox on 03 August 2014 - 10:10 PM

wood floor


#1222631 Good Wheeling Shots! Add you favs! (Comment Free Thread)

Posted by NorthCoast on 04 April 2014 - 02:27 PM


#1185302 The Awesome Older Generation Picture Thread

Posted by Subie Gal on 12 September 2013 - 10:22 AM

2 of my babies - and they do get babied!!