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On the top of the 2001 EJ25 M/T just past the throttle body plate where the wire harness connects, there is a plastic magnetic module that has a fixed spindle that inserts from the main valve. That module has slotted holes for a reason! If you are near sea level then rotate counterclockwise, if you are at 4000+ feet then adjust it clockwise. Use a new 19mm ID O-ring with a 1.6mm wall thickness. Subaru most likely found the ECU issue after phase 3 of development, slots are an easy and cheap way to fix a mistake.

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My first thought on the speedo was that Subarus are Legos so that should be simple. Unfortunately not. The automatic appears to use a 2 pin reluctor (VSS2) for the speedometer. The 6MT has a 3 pin Hall effect sensor VSS. First step was to wire the 6MT VSS to the Haltech (SPI4 in my case). From left to right looking at the wiring harness plug with the latch on top, colors are Haltech: pin 1 GyR (large/shielded, inner wire is orange) signal SPI4 pin 2 BW ground pin 3 GyR (small) +12VDC Have to calibrate it but that seemed to give us a vehicle speed on the Haltech. Need to take a picture. Next step is to set up one of the outputs of the Haltech to get the speedometer working. I think I know how just haven't done it yet. A few weeks ago we got the reverse lights working. Spliced a connector on the wires (GB pin 9, BrY pin 10) that normally go to the 12 pin gray auto trans connector to pins 3 and 6 of a connector that plugs into the STI 6MT harness. Both reverse light bulbs were a little corroded so we cleaned those up. Then it seemed like we had to shift it in and out of reverse a few times before they'd consistently light up, maybe the switch on the trans was a little sticky or dirty.

Leaving this post mostly empty for future gauge cluster updates. EZ36 has an oil level sensor so I figured, why not run that to one of the unused idiot lights? It's pin 16 of the EZ36 engine connector (white wire). Spliced it to the AT temp light since that's no longer a concern. Unfortunately the oil level switch is apparently closed when the oil level is normal. So the light is basically always on. It does turn off while turning left. If anyone knows of a simple way to switch this to be normally open (without a relay or something) I'm all ears. Z and I did a lot of probing and testing of the fuel gauge circuit and long story short he eventually noticed that the ground for the sender goes to the engine. We grounded that pin of the original engine harness (black red, pin 16 of the 16 pin connector shown below) and the fuel gauge seemed to work. I'll probably get a legit connector for that. Might be able to use it for the temp gauge too. Otherwise there's several other places that sender could get grounded.

Z and I did some more wiring on the Impreza, will update the EZ36 swap page shortly. Non-engine swap related wiring, modified the fog light wiring a bit so they only come on with high beams rather than just with low beams. Makes it easier to switch the light bars on and off. Spliced in an extra wire to the red wire (pin 1 of connector shown below) that's grounded with high beams on over to the fog light switch. Spliced that in to the yellow blue wire (pin 5 connector shown below) that normally is grounded with low beams on. Power locks hadn't been working because the lock timer module (or whatever it's called) was still bolted to the dash. Unbolted that and plugged it into the harness and now the power locks work. RF power window doesn't seem to work at all but other than that they mostly work. The switch on the driver's door doesn't hit a couple directions so that should eventually be replaced. B fixed the broken rear washer fluid hose and modified the air box a bit more. Got the parking brake working. Z and I machined up a couple barrels for the ends of the stock parking brake cables. B welded and painted some pieces of tubing on the strut brackets. Not much clearance there to the wheel and tire but there's already less clearance elsewhere. Easier than expected really. We took the car for a test drive and tried to do a little more low RPM high load tuning. Maybe improved things a bit in that region of the map but probably not much left to be gained. Can slightly accelerate up a fairly steep paved hill from 400RPM in third gear. Parking brake works fantastic. Put maybe half effort on the handle and it locked up at least one of the bald mud tires on dry pavement. Should actually work decent as a handbrake but definitely as a parking brake. Other than that the test drive went pretty well. Still losing synch on one of the exhaust cams occasionally, doesn't really affect how it runs and resynchs when you restart it. At one point I was going too slow and stalled the engine shifting into sixth gear. When I restarted it the engine was running rough like it did a week ago. Shut it off and restarted it and then ran smooth. Sent that log to Haltech too. After dinner we worked on the white Subarus. B replaced the front pads on his Forester. We cranked in as much negative camber as possible in the front of my white Outback, which isn't a lot. I keep wearing out the outside of my tires first on all my Subarus running them at zero camber so I finally wised up and adjusted the alignment. Then we reset the toe. After that we finally fixed the exhaust. First I made a replacement pipe for the section that was smashed. Welded and painted with some high temp paint. Here is the smashed and leaky section we cut out. It probably looks worse in person but might be down to half the original cross section. B cut the hanger off the stock section of pipe and I welded that on the replacement pipe, got the replacement in place and welded it on both ends. Quieter than before. Probably added 100hp too.

So recently I did the maxima alternator upgrade. super simple. just had to redneck machine the spacer under the pulley and attach a few wires. while I was at it I unclusterfked the wiring from the guy I sold it to, the bought it back from I then replaced the redline weber adapter with the transdapt 2107. A few months ago I took it on a road rally. was a blast. And today I discovered the engine I put together which is a combination of an spfi block and the carb engine heads and cams, is high enough compression that it needs premium..

Nice job! Thank you for taking the time to post such a useful thread! I know that it's easy to forget to stop, get cleaned off, and take pictures when I am in work mode.

@ Bennie On USMB, ----> 10 years? Yes it's possible...😁

Good advice @scoobydube, but this is an eight year thread update request from 88glonthadl. Long shot to get a reply but sometimes worth asking. Cheers Bennie

Try replacing a couple key relay switches beneath the dash, to the left of the steering column, that keep the engine running. You can figure it out when the engine is running, by pulling the relay switches one at a time. Stick with genuine OEM switches.

Do not buy DENSO relay switches off of EBAY, because the two switches that get real hot, put off noxious fumes inside the car.

Ah, ok. The crossmembers I have fit into the car but don't bolt to the center crossmember for an EJ. I got the transmission on ebay for the price of too much lol

To help out crazyeights with getting them one! Yes they’re different and not interchangeable without mods. ‘84 is the crossover year of Oz where I am, not sure about the US. The EA81 gearbox crossmember has two bolt holes at either end for the mounts. The EA82 has a big hole at each end of its gearbox crossmember for a rubber bush and bolt arrangement. ^ that’s the easiest way to differentiate between the two gearbox crossmembers Cheers Bennie

Yes, pictures of your crossmember would be helpful. I don't have pictures of my crossmember setup but I can take some tomorrow if needed. Not sure why I need a source for another transmission, but I don't have one. Would the crossmember from an EA81 chassis be different? I don't remember what car I got the crossmember from but I think it was an 84, not sure if that would be an EA81 or 82

Different dashboard due to the cluster being shorter. This was from the dashboard swap to get the better looking instrument cluster into my brumby: The smaller cluster does not have oil pressure or voltage. You might be able to make out the unit of measurement on the oil pressure gauge of the long dash too. I’d much prefer one in psi! About those tyres on the 5.5 inch wide rim - ask the tyre fitters. They’ll know if it’s even safe to run those tyres on that rim and may possibly know how much they’ll overhang. Or ask if they can fit one tyre to a rim and do a test fit on the front and rear of the brat to check for clearances. Cheers Bennie

Man, my first repair work on the brat and it beat me up good. Set out to change both front strut mounts, both front axles, and a couple front struds. I had about 4 hours to get this all done. (I am a mechanic by trade and I have 2 and 4 post lifts at my disposal) I got one strut mount changed out and half way through an axle job before I ran out of time 🤦 The first strut beat me up the whole time trying to get the spring compressed enough to take the mount off. I do have an awesome shop I work out of and a LOT of tools, but I do not have a very nice strut spring compressor (those floor mounted joints are awesome) and all I had was the typical 2 jaw jobber with the forcing bolt. I hate compressing strut springs. I value my life and I have a very acute respect for the amount of energy stored in a compressed spring. And these are rusty 36 year old springs 🫣 So that took awhile. But I got that completely busted strut mount replaced so now I don't have to worry about very bad things possibly happening at speed when the suspension is unloaded over bumps. Also got to really oil up the adjusting bolts on the struts that change the ride height, so that's good as well. Until next time 550ish miles in now. Thinking of getting a set of 205/60/13 bfgs to throw on. Concerned about the width of the rims though. I don't know if 205s on 5.5" (I think) wide will work or not. Or if they'll rub. It's the only 13" white letter tire I can find. I'd *really* like a set of outlined white letters. Hmmm.

The calmasters I actually had gotten from a member on here and I got them for a STEAL of a price because the gentleman quoted me a price including shipping that turned out to be way less than the actual cost to ship them (I think they came from Alaska but I could be wrong) but the person was a man of their word and wouldn't accept any more money or just give up the transaction all together either. They sold them to me for what I'm sure was quite a loss and I definitely appreciated that. I originally got them for my GL/Loyale (Leone) cars, but they wound up getting parked and I didn't want these to rust so I pulled them and put them in the basement. My understanding is they were a limited run of 4x140 wheels made by an aftermarket company out of California. Come to find the BRAT is a California model as well so they kinda seem fitting on there. I don't know. We'll see. Thanks for all the kind words

What was located in the spots where the oil pressure gauge and the voltmeter are? I wonder also how the clock looks.

I've heard the VT title thing or "loophole" has closed. Not an expert, however. Others have said Alabama has a "looser" process. If you had been closer, would have given you a killer deal on the '89 DL wagon carcass I finally liquidated. It had a title. Still have near complete new gasket set, plus more new for the EA 82 engines, will make a package deal if interested. Dave S.

I have a 92 Loyale with an EJ22 swap using a 93 legacy 5MT transmission and rear diff. For a cross-member I am using the EA82 front and rear, the EJ22 center-piece bolts right up to the EA82 cross-members. From what I recall, the XT6 should be similar to the EA82 generation. It's been a long time since I sold my XT6. I can put my Loyale up on the lift tomorrow and take a couple pictures of my franken-member if it would help. Do you have any pictures up anywhere? Do you have a source for another 6MT?

I'm swapping an STi 6mt into my XT6 and have the center crossmember piece, but can't find the XT6 front and back pieces (my car is an automatic). Does anyone know where I can get those parts, and until then would it be a problem if I just used those from a regular EA82 chassis car and drilled holes to mount the EJ center piece?

Thanks Numbchux. I see the same destination code on my neighbor's 2004 Calif OB. Helps to know which cars to not buy up here in MT.

@czny never been to one, I’ll have to check it out.. what I tried didn’t work so well. After letting sit all night it was still not trustworthy to not fall apart and get sucked into the intake. I only need to fix it for a week or two, found one on the internet used. As long as it wasn’t a scam lol, I appreciate the info and help man

Didn't think of it before but there's also Hobby Lobby stores https://www.yellowpages.com/new-stanton-pa/hobby-lobby-hours Figures your valve would be disintegrating, next time.

Make sure the throttle plate is all the way closed. I'd get the airbox and all hoses back on/connected.