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@czny never been to one, I’ll have to check it out.. what I tried didn’t work so well. After letting sit all night it was still not trustworthy to not fall apart and get sucked into the intake. I only need to fix it for a week or two, found one on the internet used. As long as it wasn’t a scam lol, I appreciate the info and help man

Didn't think of it before but there's also Hobby Lobby stores https://www.yellowpages.com/new-stanton-pa/hobby-lobby-hours Figures your valve would be disintegrating, next time.

Make sure the throttle plate is all the way closed. I'd get the airbox and all hoses back on/connected.

While this first post remains true and in waiting yet another brown wagon has come my way. Due to get my hands on it later this week or early next week. Then I’ll have a better assessment of what I’ll be doing with it. But from what I’ve seen this appears to be another BODY I won’t be needing. Again , I am waiting to see but this wagon might be front wheel drive. So two bodies will be available most likely between now and end of summer. Original posting car sits in Norwich CT and will need to be hauled from there. This additional wagon I’m still not sure where I’m dragging it but likely Naugatuck CT where the next owner can pick it up. Will add more details soon. But please keep in mind these cars will be extremely picked over and likely will NOT ROLL. So bring some type of dolley or big log or whatever gets it rolled onto your hauler. Message here or email me at moosens@yahoo.com

Hi, to start, my car is a 2004 Impreza 2.5TS 5MT with a 2000 Impreza L phase 2 EJ22 in it. To complete this swap, I transfered the intake and exhaust manifolds with any sensors and such associated, as well as the cam and crank sprockets. While the EJ222 was out, I replaced the valve cover gaskets and timing belt. I had a hiccup when getting it started that I didn't swap the cam and crank gears, so I had to go back in to do that, and when I fired it up, it would not go lower than 4000rpm, sometimes up to 5000 and I shut it off before I can see if it will go any higher. I tried cleaning the IACV which didn't help, followed by replacing it, which brought my rpm down to about 3000, before climbing right back up to 4500 a couple seconds later. I am getting codes P0519 AND P0113 currently, although the airbox and thus, IAT sensor, are not currently attached. Anyone have recommendations on what would be causing this ridiculously high idle? Thanks.

@czny outer diameter is the same size as the id, it fell apart inside the hose I got pieces of it man.. not a single ace within 50 miles had hobby brass or anything other than a refrigerator line for 55$..

By VIN, your car uses the 040. 100 is for the 3.0 and 07-09 253 (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). Destination code U5 is for California, even though it's a 253.

Did you even try to get the hose nub out of the hose so it could be re-attached to the valve? It appears to me that you misunderstood the repair we suggested. Unless that poly tube is same OD as the ID of the hose(?)

@idosubaru @azdave @czny @lmdewIdk how well it will work but this is what I’m starting with., will modify tomorrow. Got it tapped to a 1/4 but could not get 1/4 copper or brass pipe without spending 60 on a refrigerator ice maker kit lol. I do hvac so my plan is to find a scrap piece

Before you order, go to your car and pinch all the hoses connecting to the pcv valve. Chances are they're already hard and brittle, probably crack or won't seal up if you take it apart. You might be better off ordering the pcv assembly with new hoses attached already.

Drove the car around the block this morning, ran smooth and pulled hard. Took a log of that and sent it to Haltech, hopefully they can tell some difference between the two. Recently finished these taller castle nuts, don't think I'd posted a picture yet. We had one strip out on one of B's ball joints a while back and it could have been a lot worse had we been going over a walking pace. About twice the thread engagement if you don't count the castellated part. 4340 steel, need to check hardness vs the stock ones when I get my hardness tester back, might get them heat treated. Since we normally have to use a washer or two under the stock castle nuts with our fabricated control arms these fit instead without washers. Put one on the Impreza when we reassembled it.

@azdave I’m going to try that today as it’s the only thing i think I can do at the moment.. going to ace now

According to your VIN plate you have an federal EJ253 engine, not an EJ259 california engine.

I ordered 11810AA100 which says its for U5. I put my vin into the order form and they cancelled it and said I need 11810AA040. When I searched online it said U5 is california vehicle so isn't that what I have?

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That is probably glass fiber reinforced Nylon and I've had fairly good success carefully fitting a short piece of K&S brass tubing inside a broken connection like that to add some mechanical strength and then carefully coating the outside with a layer of JB Weld. You can use tiny amounts of CA glue to hold things in position first and then epoxy smoothed over the top. Not sure if you have enough material there to work with.

@idosubaru @czny @lmdewOk thanks guys.. going to go to the closest ace tomorrow and see what I can find, not sure if I can tap it or not. It’s pretty brittle from heat over time. I’m thinking plastic cement might be my best bet til I can find a decent one. I think it’s a vacuum solenoid, my diagram is shot. Anyone know if one of a 2.2 would be compatible? I’m guessing not

Thought at first maybe a cam skipped timing or something but at least according to the Haltech they were still all good. Compression test isn't easy on these as you probably know. Haven't heard back from Haltech yet, will probably call them tomorrow. Will fire it up first, wouldn't be surprised if it runs OK after sitting.

Looks like the plastic binder qualities have cooked off from engine heat. IF you thread for a fitting go with a straight thread to prevent further cracking, not tapered like pipe thread. There may not be enough wall thickness to tap a hole so maybe find some brass hobby tubing at the Ace hardware to fit inside the hole snugly and plastic cement to glue it together.

Yes sucking air means more air and lower fuel/air ratio = lean.

I was meant to reply a while ago about that reverse gearset. The selector tabs look well chewed out, this along with the slop from the selector forks explains why it wouldn’t hold the gear. It’s hard to tell if the tabs were chewed out from rough use or from slipping out of gear as a result of the slop. Either way, neither of those would be helping! I hope you get that wiring sorted. Wiring gremlins are not fun. Odd about that spark timing at low revs. That rough running issue is interesting. Thought about doing a compression check to ensure all is well internally then go from there? Cheers Bennie

We got the Impreza back together. While it was apart I tried to do some wiring with mixed results. We did get the reverse lights working. Spliced a connector on the wires that normally go to the auto trans to a connector that plugs into the 6MT harness. Both bulbs were a little corroded. Then it seemed like we had to shift it in and out of reverse a few times before they'd consistently light up, maybe the switch on the trans was a little sticky or dirty. Was going to splice the VSS in but the Impreza speedo appears to take a reluctor (2 wire) signal, VSS on the 6MT is 3 wire so I assume Hall effect. Will probably run the VSS signal to the Haltech and then hopefully a signal out from that to the speedo. I did swap the coolant temp sensor from the EZ30 in. It's 3 pin vs the EZ36 2 pin. Was hoping this would make the ECU read the temp more accurately since that's the actual sensor it's set up for but it still reads 200-210F while running which I think is higher than actual. Then I ran a wire from the other pin on the sensor to the temp gauge but unfortunately the temp gauge just reads high all the time now when the ignition is on. So much for Subarus being Legos. At least it's not a cable speedo I guess. Will post more details and pictures on the wiring when I figure out a little more. Still other wiring to figure out, fuel gauge still isn't working even though I don't think we did anything to that wiring. Need to get cruise working before any road trips. Also would be nice to have AC but still not sure if we can just give the solenoid on this compressor 12VDC indefinitely. I did clean up the wiring more, it's almost all in loom now, getting closer to being able to put the dash back in. The biggest improvement was in the shifting. The reverse lockout finally works consistently. Even better than that, with no slop it's a lot easier to find the gear you want. I think before there was more slop than actual shifter travel at least side to side. Engine was running great for about a half hour while we were doing some street tuning.We were lugging it up some hills (third gear full throttle 500RPM) to tune for low RPM high load. Stalled it a few times and after one rough stall I restarted the engine and it ran rough. No alarms/codes, air fuel seemed decent, cam timing looked decent. Cruised around town a bit, restarted it a few times, kept running rough. Not terrible but noticeably rougher idle and down on power. Probably unrelated since it was doing this before it started running rough but the ignition timing only matches the map at 2-3000RPM+. Anything below that it was around 3 or 5 degrees even though that part of the map is 10 to 20 degrees. Wondering if there some correction factor I'm missing or if this all some kind of idle region where the timing isn't following the base map. We tried it with and without the long term knock correction, no difference there in timing or whether it ran rough. Sent a log to Haltech, hopefully they see something. I did try reloading the older map and it still ran rough. Other than that everything seemed to work well, still doesn't leak a drop except from the one control arm bushing. We adjusted all the struts for maximum negative camber (didn't actually measure, probably not much less than zero since it sits so high) and the toe seems perfect at both ends. I hadn't really hit any obstacles since the gauge cluster is just sitting on the dash bar but I hit a small speed bump without thinking and the front end completely soaked it up. Rear end kicked a bit but more sound than feel (pile of plastic interior bits in the back). That will be better with a few hundred pounds of cargo in the back. So then of course I started hitting every speed bump and pothole I could find, it soaked them up nicely. It is a little bouncy on relatively smooth pavement, I think due to the relatively stiff springs for the weight. Will see how it sits loaded but might go with softer springs in the rear eventually. This set of struts has the valving a shock tuning expert suggested to us. Should be interesting to trail ride now with this Impreza, B's Forester, and Z's Forester all with significantly different shock valving but the same springs, wheel and tire sizes, wheelbase, and weight.

Check the hood emissions hose chart. It may have it. Looks like there is enough material there that you could go to ACE Hardware and get a brass fitting that is a barb on one side and and pipe thread on the other. Get the correct tap and thread it.

I have now replaced the crank and cam sprockets and the motor started right up. The only problem is it idles at 4000rpm and I have code p0519. Anyone able to provide insight on where to start with this? Thanks