98sub2500leg Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Any input on the change intervals would be appreciated. The more input the better. So far at 107+k miles and haven't them changed yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 107K and you haven't changed the gearoil in your 5MT and rear diff? Check your owner's manual for the suggested intervals; I believe it's 30K! I've gone 100K with a quality synthetic gear oil (Castrol syntec or Redline) but that was only before I knew better. Being thrifty with gearoil is gambling on having a transmission failure which is certainly more expensive than the $40 cost for the gearoil (if you do your own changes). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 107K and you haven't changed the gearoil in your 5MT and rear diff? Check your owner's manual for the suggested intervals; I believe it's 30K! I've gone 100K with a quality synthetic gear oil (Castrol syntec or Redline) but that was only before I knew better. Being thrifty with gearoil is gambling on having a transmission failure which is certainly more expensive than the $40 cost for the gearoil (if you do your own changes). Actually, i believe it was done at the 60k mile service. Yes, I do my own service, right now I have 3 vehicles and a 40HP tractor that all needs the same service. I'm planning on loading up all the garage bays and doing them in a line. Most oil, change shops get the cheap stuff. If you bring in your own there is no break on the price. On pan oil changes, what's worse is at some places they use inexperienced labor who a lot of times really over torques the pan bolts. I have heard (but not confirmed because it is hard to believe) that some use a impact wrench to tighten them. I am just getting ready to restart my Sub after a 3 week Hg & semi re-build. I filled the block from the upper rad. hose, and still need to fill the radiator. Before I can do that I want to clean the resevoir tank. I found it to work fairly well as a good blown head gasket indicator. Then I have to fill the crankcase with oil, install battery then pray. Did you mean to say after you knew better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 i think he meant to say exactly what he typed - he did that before he knew better than wait that long to change the oils. 60,000 is roughly what i change my transmission and diff fluids at. if it's never been changed before though you might have a mind to check it at 30,000 and replace if it's dirty at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Car 1st started up within 3rd start at 2-3 sec intervals, runs great. Started much quicker than I expected. Thought I would have to crank it for a minute or two. Restarts on a dime. Idle is a bit higher than used to be. Was 800 RPM, now 1000 RPM. Clutch needs adjustment. Haven't done that on this car before. :banana::headbang: Thanks again to all who replied & helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Car 1st started up within 3rd start at 2-3 sec intervals, runs great. FANTASTIC! What a great feeling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 FANTASTIC! What a great feeling! It was great for a short time. I posted too soon, see new thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I read the new thread first. So sorry; what a crappy piece of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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