brysawn Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 (edited) So, I have a partially taken apart 1994 loyale and I need to get it on my trailer to move it from one garage to another. My question is this: Can I connect my strut to the "strut cap" (in the engine bay) and to the ball joint on the "a-arm" and still be able to attach my hub to get a wheel on, to have it roll 50 feet on to a trailer? Do I need to have my caliper, rotor, axle and everything connected? It also doesn't have the tie rods, or anything on the drivers front side. I'm just looking for easiest way with the least amount of work to roll it onto the trailer. (the words I put " " around are because I do not know their proper title, this is just what I call them) Edited October 15, 2009 by brysawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 It will not roll without the knuckle, axle, and hub. You don't have to connect the axle to the transmission, but it has to be in the knuckle for the hub to attach. You don't need the brakes, etc, but the without the tie-rod you won't be able to steer it and it might not like to go straight or at all if the wheels turn wrong. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 I'm assuming the knuckle is the part with the bearings in it. The knuckle is attached to the strut, I forgot to mention that. So if I attach that to the ball joint and put the hub on (with the axle) then I should be able to roll it? assuming that it will steer straight. I actually just have to push it up the trailer ramps. why does the axle have to be in the knuckle to attach the hub? sorry if some of these are repetitive or dumb questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 The huge castle nut on the axle holds the hub onto the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 The axle is the only thing that the hub attaches to. Without it there is no shaft for the hub to rotate on and the only thing keeping it on the knuckle would be the brake caliper - if you don't have that either then there is nothing holding it on except maybe the wheel bearing lip seal . Trust me - you need the axle. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 one last question, is it easier to attach the axle to the trans. first or the hub first? to put it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 (edited) Typically it goes into the hub first (and that's where folks have the most trouble), then you attach it to the tansmission, then you reattach the ball joint to the knuckle. GD Edited October 15, 2009 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 thanks for the help, I'll give this a shot. what trouble to people have with getting the axle into the knuckle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Most folks have difficulty getting the axle in and out of the bearings. It's an interferance fit with the inner race of the bearings. If you clean the inner races with some scotch brite and make sure there are no high spots on the axle mating surfaces they usually go in with minimal fuss. I use two pry bars first on the nut, then the cone washer turned backwards + the nut, then the hub+cone washer+nut. I use an impact on the last step to pull the axle fully into place. The trick is to prep the axle and bearing surfaces to insure nothing hangs up, and then to make sure you are pulling it through straight - it must be centered as you pull it through or it will hang up on you. Axle replacement on EA's is a bit of art form. Very frustrating the first couple times you do it but after a while it becomes routine and simple. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 Okay, thanks. Yeah I am a volkswagen enthusiast, and I have my loayle as my DD/winter car. Its quite a bit different then my mk3, but also much more reliable. I'm currently building a mk3 vr6 cabrio. Here's an old car for refrence: 1984 jetta coupe mildly "built" motor with a t3/t4 57 trim 63 a/r... oh, and it was diesel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 I have a lot of experience with German engineering. Sadly not much of it's been good. I find the newer VW stuff to be obtusely designed and unreliable. Plus I really dislike transverse engine design's. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 I completely understand that. I have actually been looking into version 4 ej20t motors, and swaps for my loyale. I'd like to make a rwd drift car out of it. Although cool, that looks to be a very expensive and tough swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Subaru Turbo's aren't cheap - not compared to the Loyale anyway. I have a '91 Legacy Sport Sedan with the 2.2 Turbo, factory 5 speed, rear VLSD, etc. It's my toy when I'm not playing with my old EA stuff. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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