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Intake and wiring question


biggman100
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I have a 1999 legacy outback that had an EJ25 in it, but after a bunch of issues with it, i swapped it for a 1997 EJ22, that seems to run fine, but has a couple issues im still working out. My question concerns the wiring harness that is attached to the intake. The wiring harness on the EJ22 was cut at the knock sensor, in a way that makes it impossible to just rewire, so i am wondering if i can just use the intake wiring from the EJ25, or does it have to be from an EJ22? I live in NY, so i have to have the knock sensor installed so the CEL will go out for inspection. My other question is, can i just bolt the EJ25 intake to the EJ22? Also, would not having the knock sensor cause loss of power and hesitation issues at lower RPM's, or on steep hills, or would that be timing or vacuum related. I haven't checked the t-belt yet, as i haven't had time, but the car starts right up, and seems to run ok, except it seems to use a bit more gas than my other 99 with an EJ22 does, but once it gets past around 1900 RPM's, the power seems to come back, and it will wind out to around 80 MPH or so, without any hesitation at all.

Edited by biggman100
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That EJ25 intake manifold does not bolt up to that EJ22.

 

Find the pin/wire for the knock sensor and splice into the wire just behind the engine harness. In the unlikely event that yours was not at all repairable, you can still access the wire at the body side connector. It's just one wire, keep it simple, this would save a lot of work.

 

I would wait until your knock sensor is installed before digging into issues.

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My thought was, so that i didnt have to dig into the cut wires on the car, it would just be easier to pull the harness off the old intake to put on the EJ22, but i didnt want to do all that until i knew for sure the old harness would fit the new intake. Either way i have to pull the intake off the EJ22, because at some point it has already been off the engine, and they somehow stuck the harness under the intake so that its not easily accessible.

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Having the CEL on for the knock sensor will make it retard timing to edge of the map so you'll have reduced power and economy. To get the light to stay off you can just wire in about a 560k ohm resistor - though that's not ideal because then the ECU will always see no knock and advance timing as far as it allows, and if it does knock it will do nothing about it.

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