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Air control valve and fuel purge solenoid


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I have had a bit of time lately so I have been playing with my 1992 legacy 2.2L, manual trans. Just taking some time to try and help someone, oh yeah there is a question at the end.

 

I have had intermittent problems with the air control valve and the fuel purge solenoid. I read all the threads I could about these and couldn't quite figure out which was causing the problems, both codes would flash as soon as the car started to misbehave. High erractic idle, poor performance mostly in lower rpms, higher fuel consumption, stalling.

 

The fuel purge solenoid was easy enough to get out, I think it was a 12 mm bolt. As stated in past threads, I gave it a good soaking with wd40 and let it sit for awhile. I can't say if it helped, but, it shouldn't hurt either. One little trick I did figure out is when you are trying to put it back on use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold it (helps save your fingers from being caught in between the intake runners) the exact orientation isn't critical, then I put a small piece of plastic bag in the socket with a 3 inch exstention (without the rachet on), this was so the bolt wouldn't fall out when you are trying to get it into position. Once you get the bolt started then you can position the valve in the correct place and tighten it with the rachet.

 

I also removed the air control valve so I could clean it as well. This was also fairly simple once all the needed hoses were taken out of the way. I have tried spraying throttle body cleaner into the tube and brake cleaner into it, but, I'm not sure how effective it was. Once I had it removed from the car I sat down with a can of brake cleaner, a wack of Q-tips and some patience.

From what I understand the manual cars have a shutter type valve and the automatics have an oscillating valve (please correct me if I am wrong), anyways this was a shutter type valve, I think. I would spray the cleaner then gently clean the inside of the valve with a Q-tip, the shutters seem somewhat fragile so being gentle is a necessity. I unscrewed the top connecter portion of the valve, I didn't take it right off, I really didn't know if parts would fly out at me. I was able to turn the valve back and forth with it attached , and cleaned where I could. There was definately a lot of black gunk in it. I also cleaned the 2 tubes that have the coolant run through them. I reattached everything, pretty sure the top 2 bolts are longer than the bottom 2, I just put them back where I found them.

 

After everything was reattached I started the car, it fired up very quickly with no hesitation. The idle is much more stable and the engine seems to run more smoothly. I don't think this is a routine maintenance thing, but it does seem to help. Hope this can help someone.

 

I do have one question however. Where the headers go into the catalytic converter there is a hairline split around where the weld was made. I tried just patching it but that hasn't worked. Is it possible to re-weld it without having to take the headers off? I will have to take it somewhere to get fixed because I am not a welder, I don't want someone to jerk me around into getting new headers etc.

 

Thanks in advance

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I do have one question however. Where the headers go into the catalytic converter there is a hairline split around where the weld was made. I tried just patching it but that hasn't worked. Is it possible to re-weld it without having to take the headers off? I will have to take it somewhere to get fixed because I am not a welder, I don't want someone to jerk me around into getting new headers etc.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Here in Quebec there is a Midas shop recommended by the APA that specialises in mig welding such cracks in Subary headers. I guess that if they can do it, others can.

Question: When you remove the IAC for cleaning was there any gaskets involved and if so did you just used the old ones again or replace them with new? I plan on cleaning it myself as preventive maint.

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