Replacing U-Joints on EA81 Propeller Shaft

[matrixops]

I've been slowly but surely cleaning up and putting back together my 87 EA81 D/R hatch. I noticed the other day that at low speed (creeping into the garage) that there is a knocking sound coming from underneath the car. I thought it might be something caught on the propellor shaft as it spins but didn't see any thing. Having worked on rear wheel and 4 wheel drives a bit I checked the propeller shaft for play. I noticed that the shaft has quite a bit of play at the joint near the transmission.

 

I have read mixed threads on whether or not these u-joints are replaceable without any clear indication. My local parts store can get me the joints, but I am curious as to whether or not anyone has any clear insight on replacing these joints?

 

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

 

matrixops

[GeneralDisorder]

They are easily replaceable on the EA81 shafts - get joints with zerks tho so you can grease them. I've done several.

 

GD

[matrixops]

Thanks GD!

 

You wouldn't happen to have any part numbers or links to stores that carry these? I want to make sure to get the right part the first time. I understand if the stores aren't in this area, but a part number might be usuable at the parts counter.

 

Also, for information's sake, are these joints staked or not? I noticed in a NEAPCO catalog that there are two possibilities for the joints. One is listed for the Brat/GL (2-door) 85-88 w/4WD (1-0027), the other is listed for DL, GL, and RX 85-89 All w/Staked-In U-joints (pn 1-0430). The 1-0027 is an internal snap ring U-joint, while the 1-0430 is staked. Which one is it? I have a GL 2-door with 4WD.

 

I am just a bit confused.

 

thanks.

 

matrixops.

[4x4_Welder]

The Brat and Hatch stayed with the EA81 style, the GL, DL, and RX were all EA82. If the joints are seized tight in the yokes, just cut the cross out with a torch. I used to do that with D44 front axle ujoints all the time.

[matrixops]

So, 4x4 Welder, you are suggesting the 1-0027 Joints I mentioned above?

 

I noticed today that the manual for my hatch has the brat and hatch on the cover. This seems to support your idea of the similarities. Also, can anyone tell me what parts stores are looking for when they ask for the VIN "4" or "5"? I noticed my VIN has a 5 in it.

 

Another interesting note, indicating my excitement or idiocy, but the hatch is actually an 88 rather than an 87.

 

thanks for all of the help so far.

 

matrixops

[GeneralDisorder]

You have an EA81, so just always ask for parts for an 84. Non-staked in this case. The EA82's have the staked ones which are a real pain to replace.

 

GD

[matrixops]

GD,

Thanks a ton!:headbang:

 

That cleared up a lot of the confusion at the parts store.

 

matrixops

[matrixops]

Well, the parts came in and the U-Joints came with grease fittings, even though they didn't specify it when I ordered them. They were part number 1-0027 at advance auto parts. They cost about $8. Since I had the shaft out I replaced both front and rear. I did notice one thing that I didn't care for. The cat is located right underneath the front u-joint which will put a lot of heat into the piece and shorten it's life.

 

A quick test drive with the new joints indicated that the pesky vibration is gone and none to soon as prolonged driving with the vibration would have caused serious problems with other components in the 4WD drive train.

 

GD, thanks for all the tips on ordering parts. Next is replacing the valve cover gaskets (ordered at the same time as the u-joints) to reduce my oil expense and that nice fragance coming from the exhaust pipes burning it off.

 

matrixops

[GeneralDisorder]

coat the v-cover gaskets in RTV to prevent them from soaking up oil - the cork will retain it's springyness, and not get hard and leak so quick. Also replace the rubber grommet washers under the two bolts or they will leak as well.

 

GD