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is there any calibration involved in changing a bad TPS?


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well, subject says it all. my TPS is going and she threw a code the other day. havent checked it yet, and shall, but must replace TPS. will grab from junkyard, know how to test, but is there any sort of calibration involved? i know i have read threads where it was discussed, but dont know if it would need to be done if im taking a stock three wire out of one car and into an identical setup or not... probly a stupid question, but i want to know if the job is more than just disassembly/reassembly.. thanks

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adjust it by ear. with the car at operating temperature twist the TPS until the car just starts to cut off, then back it off a hair. that's how i do it.

 

check your wiring 6 to 8 inches back behind the TPS, i've seen shorts in the wiring behind the TPS. swapping in another one won't help that at all. usually you can roll the wiring around between your fingers starting at the TPS and working your way back as far as you can reach. if you get to a short in the wiring the engine will change noticeably. and it's usually repeatable making it obvious.

 

the TPS adjustment specifications for the XT6 are wrong in the Subaru FSM so be careful if you're using that.

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is there an idle switch? i thought i had a three wire TPS, not a four... please correct me if im wrong, but if i have a three wire TPS, can i put a four wire on and ignore the other wire? im reading the FSM but it has like a single paragraph about the TPS and my haynes isnt much help either. ill be going to the junkyard this morning, to get another one (or two, likely a pocket item.. depends on how much work i wanna do..) and i guess i will understand what you mean about the adjuctment as i get into it.. but should i run the car without the alternator on it?? i mean, i was imagining having to remove the alt and AC comrpessor just to swap the thing.. the more info i can get on this job the better, i dont want to run into any speedbumps today. the last week has seen me putting in FAR too much time for other people, and simply ignoring my own problems.. and this is my only day off this week, so its now or never. or next week. so thanks for the info.. EDIT WOW i love my dad, he raised me well.. thats all i have to say.. because of that, i have an 8" phillips head screwdriver (right tool for right job, since day one) and i have discovered that yes, you CAN tighten and loosen those screws from waay back there, its a straight shot with the AC and alternator and all installed... and i discovered that yes, i have a four wire TPS.. dunno why i thought it was 3... but i understand the adjustment alot better now, having actually lookded at it with "adjustment" on my mind :rolleyes: still the more info on this the better, my search (_somewhat_ half-fast but not entirely) turned up no help for me as a repair.. just swap questions... thanks again

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bump, i still dont get how i am supposed to start the car without it adjusted.. im asuming set it in the middle and hopefully vroom.. but idle adjust...??? there is nothing like that, its just the snesor... is that an XT thing?! this is a GL-10 NA im talking about... fuh, its hot in south florida. got a grill off a carbed ea82, never seen a carbed one before (fairly new to soobs, plus in sofla, they are just not around.. just, not.....) its the checkerboard style, i like it alot more than mine, so i hope i can fit it on easy enough.. it mounts differently from mine, but i think i have the tabs for the plastic screw retainers on my car :- ) and also a trunklid, now i can put my luggage rack back together!! YAY!!! but first and foremost, i got new tie rod ends.

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