Uberoo Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 My friend has an 1987 nissan pulsar NX with an automatic and throttle body fuel injection. The car runs great when its cold but when it warms up it loses all power. You can rev the car in neutral like its nothing.Ive tried to replace the O2 sensor but it didnt change anything. Playing around by holding the car in gear the car runs great below 3.5K after that it drops to 2K and will struggle to accerate. Anyone have any ideas? the head was recently off but the car runs great other wise so I don't believe it has a cam timing issue.It idles at 1K rpm smoothly.Does anyone know how to check the computer codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 First thing that comes to mind is a vacuum leak. Time to bust out a can of carb cleaner and check all the gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Fuel filter, spark timing, clogged injector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 fuel filter, spark timing, clogged injector. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zstalker Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 engine coolant temperature sensor maybe. If broken in a manner that tells the ECM the engine is very cold, it will run acceptably when it is actually cold, but as it warms up it's still fueling what it thinks is a cold motor, and it floods. Don't rely on the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster either, many cars have a separate sensor for the ECM and the gauge. ...just spitballing... ~Erik~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Fuel filter, spark timing, clogged injector. TB Injection, i doubt it car wouldnt run at all if the in bold was the case. i had a 1987 maxima that had a similar problem (who nother motor but....) i replaced the CHTS (Cylinder Head Temp Sensor) its the same thing zstalker is talking about, it fixed it for the most part, the rest was tuning it getting the timing right and adjusting the vaccum in the car because the BCDC (Boost Controller Deceleration Device) was mis-adjusted. the CHTS is the same basic sensor in the EA cars that changes fuel mixture along with the temp of the engine, they may even be the same sensor, that'd probally be awsome becsue for some reason the CHTS cost a fortune on the maxima, hope its not the same on a NX. probally a little late to this but i thought i would add Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 what security do you guys have on your cars?I mean, were they broken into and stolen or were they just towed? although i spose you wouldnt know... What is that supposed to mean? Did you reply to the wrong thread or something? I agree with the CHTS being the problem, it makes sense as it seems like a air/fuel ratio problem. Twitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 what security do you guys have on your cars?I mean, were they broken into and stolen or were they just towed? although i spose you wouldnt know... ??? noob ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 what security do you guys have on your cars?... ??? Well... An Ex Co-Worker had a 1988 Nissan Blue Bird 1.8 Turbo with Similar Problems; I Remember that he Told me that He Found the problem: it was a Fail in the MAF due to a Worn Electronic Part that I am Not Completely Sure Right Now; A Solenoid Maybe? So I Kindly Suggest to Check that MAF. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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