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4" lift kit build thread


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83 replies to this topic

#1 Markus56

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 05:55 PM

So i want to build a 4 inch lift kit to replace the 2 inch that is on my car now.

I started making a list of all the pieces i need to make, but i left that list at one eye's house and it was incomplete anyhow.

So if someone who has one, or has made one, or knows what their talking about (:lol:) could give me a list of pieces with measurements and where they go, that would be awesome!

And as a second thought, if there is a thread with this information that i couldn't find, that would help too.

Edited by Markus56, 17 September 2009 - 07:53 PM.


#2 Markus56

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 07:53 PM

This is what i have to work with:
Posted Image

and i have a LOT of it.

And what i have done so far:
Posted Image

#3 SoobieDoo

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 10:49 PM

Good idea, John...that will hopefully fix your unique camber problems.
Here's a good link, with no pics left, but still great info:
http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=26281

#4 Markus56

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 11:30 PM

Thanks for that!

I now have 14 2x2x4 blocks that are ready to be drilled.

i got the 14 from a site where a guy put a 6 inch lift on a brat. not sure if the number is the same for gen 3's

and i still don't have a good idea what i'm doing :rolleyes:

#5 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:26 AM

Thanks for that!

I now have 14 2x2x4 blocks that are ready to be drilled.

i got the 14 from a site where a guy put a 6 inch lift on a brat. not sure if the number is the same for gen 3's

and i still don't have a good idea what i'm doing :rolleyes:



you wont need them on the back , heres my 4" lift to give you an idea , the critical part is the front strut blocks , good luck

Posted Image

#6 Markus56

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 03:33 PM

Does anyone have the size of the bolts you need?

And i have started gathering materials for the strut tower blocks

Edited by Markus56, 19 September 2009 - 05:37 PM.


#7 SoobieDoo

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 06:44 PM

Good idea, John...that will hopefully fix your unique camber problems.
Here's a good link, with no pics left, but still great info:
http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=26281


take another look :lol:

#8 Markus56

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 08:32 PM

I know, but that guy also says he has a torsion bar on an 85' DL. I could be wrong but i thought that gen 3s didn't have torsion bars

#9 Markus56

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 09:31 PM

Also, I'm thinking of making a whole subframe for the car. Still haven't decided yet.

#10 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 11:08 PM

body bolts are 12mm x 1.25 pitch

#11 Markus56

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 10:27 PM

a thread from the dead! :horse:

make a lot of progress today
Thanks for these, Bill! :headbang:
Posted Image

Posted Image

and i got the motor out

Posted Image

and all the crossmembers are unbolted. i am going to replace the engine cross member because i screwed up the steering at walker a few months ago, and i want to upgrade to power steering! :banana:

Edited by Markus56, 19 February 2010 - 10:30 PM.


#12 SoobieDoo

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 11:15 PM

Lookin good John!
That PS will be a nice upgrade too. :clap:

#13 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 02:30 PM

I can tell you right now those blocks are too thin unless you sleeve the bolts or reinforce them from the open sides. Anything thinner than 1/4" wall thickness will be smashed (the sides will bow outward or the whole block will start collapsing to the side). I've seen this first hand with a 4" lift on an EA81 - 3/16" wall thickness was used and the blocks collapsed and the bolts came loose. It will be ok if you aren't doing any of the rough stuff at all - just driving around town on the street is ok. But when you need to get some suspension action going..... bad juju my friend.

Also - I no longer through-bolt my blocks. I use the stock body bolts on the top of the block and a new set of short bolts/washers on the bottom - this way no amount of flex in the block will cause the bolts to loosen or rip away from the body and the required hardware is much cheaper and you can use SAE. Yes - it makes it harder to tighen them but it's worth it. You just get in there with a wobbly and a long extension. Also I don't drill out the blocks for a clearanced hole - I tap them and thread the bolt into the block and then use a fender washer/lock nut/nut on the other side as a locker.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 21 February 2010 - 02:36 PM.


#14 The Dude Abides

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 04:17 PM

What ya doin with your old 2inch lift:grin:

#15 3eyedwagon

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 04:44 PM

What ya doin with your old 2inch lift:grin:



If you really want a two inch lift, I can fab up a couple for you. I've seen you mention it multiple times. I could do a couple of them for you after I get back from Vegas, and ship them out to you in a flat rate box. It'd probably be pretty dirt cheap. I think I even already have a few parts of the lift made sitting out in my shop.

#16 The Dude Abides

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 05:07 PM

If you really want a two inch lift, I can fab up a couple for you. I've seen you mention it multiple times. I could do a couple of them for you after I get back from Vegas, and ship them out to you in a flat rate box. It'd probably be pretty dirt cheap. I think I even already have a few parts of the lift made sitting out in my shop.


I have been mentioning it kinda jokenly in threads because someone was going to fab one up for me but hes been busy lately so he hasent had time. As far as i know he has half of it done so i wouldnt want to stick him with half a lift. Thanks for the offer though.

#17 The Dude Abides

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:11 PM

Hey 3eyedwagon clear out your box. Send the lift along the way.

#18 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 02:18 PM

John'

got her going yet ? we need to hit walker again wonce Oneeye is up and runin

#19 Markus56

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 07:00 PM

workin on it a bit at a time. as of this moment i am making a setup to drop my rear diff 2". going to school full time really gets in the way, but what are you gonna do...

#20 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 07:10 PM

Didnt you just buy Jeff's old wheeler wagon? I'd wheel it while you work on the 85.

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#21 one eye

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 09:22 PM

Didnt you just buy Jeff's old wheeler wagon? I'd wheel it while you work on the 85.

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Bill, Richard bought it...................

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#22 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 10:10 PM

Oh. I recant my previous statement :banana:

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#23 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 10:25 PM

Oh. I recant my previous statement :banana:

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Hey Bill know anyone that can deliver this EA71 to Ya ???

#24 Markus56

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 08:49 PM

More progress today! I have the front end all done except for a tie rod and the motor. Then i have to wait for paint to dry and i can install the driveline and rear diff after i do the shifter linkages :banana:

#25 SoobieDoo

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 08:59 PM

Nice!!!...you should take a pic of the front camber, John. :grin:




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