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Anyone have EA81 Lift Install instructions?


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37 replies to this topic

#1 gadberry

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 01:51 PM

I have a "SlideShow" built 4" kit for an EA81, and could use help locating
a set of instructions if they exist. I have searched the thread archives
but haven't found anything specific.. lots of great info, but I thought
i'd better double-check to make sure I'm not missing something obvious
before I attempt this install.. first time lift installer

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. this is going on an '81 4dr Wagon

gadberry

#2 baccaruda

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 07:54 PM

I've never heard of that brand and searching this site shows that you're probably the first one to talk of it.
Spread it out and post a picture of what you have and we can probably help you figure it out that way. There have been several different lift kit manufacturers but all lifts are similar in enough ways that it shouldn't be too hard.

#3 bheinen74

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 08:26 PM

its the same kit i have on the BRAT in my avitar.

I used some instructions i found floating around, and had McBrat help on a few things. :) yay mick.

#4 gadberry

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 10:04 PM

Member "sideshow86" built the kit, and I hoped to locate a
similar install steps to follow so that I can anticipate what's needed
to complete the job smoothly since I may borrow a friends workspace
during the install.. I don't have access to car lift or impact wrenches
so I'm a newbie.. I'm willing to take pics and post a web page of the
process if it would help knowledgable installers offer virtual support..

Just trying to avoid any silly mistakes that might halt progress
after the car is in pieces and in his garage.. Know what I mean.

1. Disconnect battery, drain radiator, loosen steering at ?, disconnect ground wires and wire harness at ??

2. position x jackstands there; jack car at x locations
loosen nuts at points a, b, c and d, then lift til...

3. ??? Hellifeyeno??

Sound like a start?

Thanks all!
Gadberry

#5 Numbchux

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 01:46 AM

that's more or less how it's done. Pretty hard to tell you specifically how that kit was designed to work.

But as baccaruda said, post up a nice, big picture of all the parts, and those of us who have installed a few lifts can probably identify how it's done and give you some pointers.

#6 bheinen74

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:49 AM

Also, dont forget the steering extender.
Do you have the stock aircleaner box/carb? If so, the top radiator hose needs lengthened to snake around it, or else cut the snorkel inlet off the air cleaner box. If you have a weber, it may be fine.
The lower radiator hose needs to be shortened but is able to be reuses when it is shortened. May have to change the heater hoses too, and make sure they dont rub the steering column.

The kit that slidshow made, the front crossmember blocks have long LARGE bolts, but those bolts were too big in diameter for my lift, they are larger than the stock bolts. I had to go find smaller diameter bolts so as to not have to drill the frame rails out for them to fit. Just take your stock ones to the store and get longer ones.

Exhaust needs to be wired up in back wehre the muffler is until you can get it to a shop to modify where it runs which will be too low until you get a shop to fix it.

#7 slideshow86

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:30 PM

Very sorry, I had computer issues and lost everything. All I could find was an email with this information. I have the attached pictures I can send also if needed ( I need your email address).

I also made a few different versions of my kits. These instructions are for my very first type kit. Call it model #001 (I dont konw what type you have but rear strut assembly spacer will be different.)

I hope this helps

INSTRUCTIONS
Ok so most of you are probably going to be installing this yourself ( or atleast I hope so). So im going to give you instructions for in your driveway on jack stands. Although the pictures that are included in your kit have pictures. There not in the act of installing, they are what a completed product looks like for reference.

Before you begin, lay out all your bolts with lockwashers and/or lock washers. Some are already equiped w/ a nut. These are differents then each other an need not try and mix up your nuts. Also go down to your local parts house and "rent" a spring compressor. They really only hold onto $20 as deposit untill you return the tool. That is if you dont own one. You can also get them really cheap from Sears.

-We will begin with the rear-

1. Jack up your car from the diff. Place jack stands under the body. Make sure your car is high enough off the ground for clearance once your XX amount higher.

2. Remove wheels.

3. Place spring compressor on either rear spring and compress it. Take enough slack off that when you remove the bottom bolt holding the strut assembly, it doesnt try to extend farther. You can also now put in your rear strut assembly spacer.

4. Place O.E.M. bolt from strut back in the same location. Fit strut in new home and place the 7/16x3in bolt, washers, lockwasher and nut in place of O.E.M. bolt, tighten.

5. Note the tab on rear strut spacer. Drill 1/4in hole threw the hole in tab and fit a 1/4in bolt, lockwasher and nut, tighten.

-see attached picture #1

6. Relieve spring compressor, move on to the other side and repeat steps 3-5

7. Place Jack under the differencial, jack it up just enough to hold it in place ( do not lift the car). Note the bar in the rear that holds the diff assembly up. Remove the 2 bolts on each side ( 4 total ) attaching it to the body.

8. Move up to the 4 bolts that hold up the diff. Remove the 4 nuts and the 1 bolt holding the diff hanger at the top. Lower the diff enough to get this diff hanger out.

9. Grind off the welds on diff hanger bracket to remove the 4 studs.

10. Move back to vehicle and push four 1/2x7/14in bolts and washers in the diff, from the bottom up. Place the spacers between diff hanger and diff. Fit with washer and lock nut. These are locking nuts. They wont back out. They are hard to turn but are the only thing that will not fail due to extensive heat. Hammer them as tight as you can.

11. Fit the top bolt that holds the diff hanger and move to the bolts you removed in step 7. Fit the 5 1/2x3in blocks and m10x4 1/4in bolts, washers, lock washer and nut. Tighten.

12. Move to other side and repeat.

13. Remove both bolts holding the carier bearing (center of driveline) Fit both 3in spacers, m10x4 1/4in bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts, Tighten.

-see attached picture #2 and #3

14. Put the wheels back on, lower car and move to the front. Note the height of the rear of your car!

-On to the front-
1. Jack up car and place jack stands under body. Do not block any engine or transmission braces. All the blocks are fitted first and tightened at the end.

2. Remove wheels

3. Remove steering knuckle, remove the upper stabalizer bar from the firewall( its the small round rod that has bushings on each end and goes from the engine to the firewall) Check clearances of any wiring and radiator hose. Note. I didnt have any issues, zero, didnt extend anything. BUT, I have an after market radiator, so my lower hose was already lower and I already had a different lower hose. Upper hose was extended w/ a temperature sensor addaptor (pretty much you cut your upper hose and put an aluminum piece in the middle that has a hole in it for a temp sensor).

4. Things that you should check the length of and probably extend.
A. Ground that goes from chassis to block, right by the battery
B. Ground that goes from chssis to block, right under the spare tire.
C. You may or may not have to "Bend" your shift lever rod for 4wd to clear your interior plastic due to its new positioning. You will know if you cant shift down far enough to get into 2wd. You can figure this out once the lift is complete.
D. Upper and lower rad hoses.
Other than that I didnt notice anything.

5. Place jack under engine crossmember but dont lift vehicle. Working one side at a time. Remove the two bolts holding the engine crossmember to frame. Remove the phillips screw holding the studs and bracket to the frame from the top. Grind off the welds holding the studs to bracket.

6. Move to the other side and loosen the eng crossmember bolts to the end of its threads. This will give you some working room. Moving back to the side you worked on in step 5, Lower the jack 3 inches. this will give you clearance for the lift block, If it doesnt you need to loosen your transmission crossmember bolts a bit. Install the 7x3in blocks and fit the m12x7 7/8 bolts in the bracket and drop back in the frame. Place a dab of locktite to the new bolts, fit the flange nut and "finger tight only"

-see attached picture #4 and #5

7. Move to the other side and repeat.

8. Remove exhaust hanger from useless crossmember, remove and discard.

8. Place jack under the transmission crossmember. Remove the 3 bolts on each side (6 total) holding the crossmember bracket to frame. Lower jack enough to fit the larger angled blocks the only way they fit (see attached picture #6 and #7). Fit the m12x5 1/4in bolts,washers and lockwashers in the ones with bushings. Fit the m12x4in bolts, washers and lock washers in the other two. Finger tight only

9. Place the smaller angled blocks between the lower rear two transmission crossmember to frame. Fit the last two m12x4in bolts, washers and lock washers and finger tigten.

-see attached picture #8 and #9

10. Starting from the front working back tighten all the bolts with a wratchet, not an impact gun. Take special care to have a few threads started before putting a wrench to it. These arent nuts you want to strip out.

11. Lower your driveshaft carrier bearing. Fit the round spacers and torque.

12. Fit steering knuckle and move on to the front spring spacers.

-Front spring spacers-

1. Start by removing both pins holding the D.O.J. to the output shafts. Remove both bolts that hold the control arms to the engine crossmember and front sway bar to control arm bolts while your under there.

2. Turn the wheel and pull clip holding the brakeline to strut. Take a cut-off wheel and cut the tab that the brakeline goes through. This way you can just bend the tab and slide out the brakeline and not have to re-bleed the brakes.

3. Remove the bolt holding the locking tab on the bottom of strut. Remove the main lower bolt holding the strut. Using a punch, tap down on the hub assembly. You may have to pry the control arm away from the crossmember, but by removing the d.o.j. pins alone gives you a few extra inches.

4.Once the bottom is out you can remove the 3 nuts holding the strut in at the top. With the strut out. fit the spacer at the top. Take three 1/4in bolts, lock washers and six nuts. Start at the top with the hardest to reach bolt first. Then the outer two. Re-assemble in reverse order

5. Repeat for other side.

You will probably need an alignment.

RE-TORQUE IN ONE WEEK!!!

Take pictures and send them to me.

Enjoy.
Thanks again
Jess

#8 bheinen74

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 08:46 PM

also, after installing this kit or any kit, you will "freak out" about the bad front camber look....but trust me however bad it does look, it will settle. Mine looked like it would never ever settle, but yeah it does. Roll car back and forth, drive it, it is fine. No tire wear at all with my slideshow kit. I have over 5k miles on it, no tire wear its likes factory, even though the bigger wheels look to /\ it not anything, no problems. It is awesome............thanks
also, even though i bought mine second hand, not directly from slideshow. the only thing is my one front strut mount sort of is not quite ground enough metal to tigthen to the strut.

also you will need to BFH hammer the inner shock tower frame of the car to clear the springs. No big deal you will see wear it needs beat once the front is all installed, and with the front on jackstands you will see where it will hit when turning left lock to right lock on the inside of strut tower. not much to bash really i did it on mine.

#9 gadberry

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 10:59 AM

Slideshow,

Thanks for the help! :grin: I'm not certain which model of the kit I have either so I've attached a pic. I also pm'd my email address to you.

You're instructions have helped alot, and I think I understand most of the steps, but I've not crawled under the car yet either, so I'm sure that'll help
me too. Been busy w/work,but hope to get on this some this weekend.

Are you certain I'll need a spring compressor for the rear of my '81 hatch? All
I see is a gas shock and a scissor-like swingarm up near the rear diff.. Am I
missing the point..will the spring compressor be required for the front struts?

big thanks again for your input and assistance with this.. same to all who have pitched in w/input!

best,
gadberry

http://picasaweb.goo...444572777684722

Edited by gadberry, 25 September 2009 - 11:06 AM.


#10 monstaru

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 12:33 PM

you should have a couple of things that are obviously for the front struts,and the rear shocks.

two long(front to back) blocks for under the engine crossmember

6 blocks the same for the trans crossmember

4 blocks the same for the rear suspension torsion bar

possibly 2 blocks that look like the front crossmember blocks, but with offset holes, or a plate that drops the rear diff hanger...

if you post a picture i am sure i could number them for you. cheers, rbian

#11 monstaru

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 12:39 PM

huh, i didna know you posted the same subject twice.......only post once, it helps us help you more efficiently.cheers, brian

#12 gadberry

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 02:46 PM

Monstaru,

Sorry for the double-post, that's a mistake I'll avoid in the future.
thanks for your help!

gadberry

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Monstaru wrote:
you should have a couple of things that are obviously for the front struts,and the rear shocks.

two long(front to back) blocks for under the engine crossmember

6 blocks the same for the trans crossmember

4 blocks the same for the rear suspension torsion bar

possibly 2 blocks that look like the front crossmember blocks, but with offset holes, or a plate that drops the rear diff hanger...

if you post a picture i am sure i could number them for you. cheers, rbian

#13 bheinen74

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 02:53 PM

this kit drops the torsion bar tube, but not the mustache bar. The diff has the square plate to drop it.

I think the instructions might be wrong. the whole torsion bar mounts get blocks, but not the front diff bracket, it remains as it is stock. The back of the diff has the rectangular plate to drop it 4" from the mustache bar.

if you have questions i can answer them.

Before you start on the front, disconnect the brake hoses, since you have extenders to put on, or you will end up stretching them out too much.

Also, get up under the center near the driveshaft, and remove the emergency brake cable from the bracket hook stays, where it is along the tunnel.

The vacuum tubing bracket near the left front shock mount needs to be unbolted-or remove the screw, as it will have to bend down as well.

#14 monstaru

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 03:42 PM

Posted Image
1. strut blocks
2. engine crossmember
3. trans crossmember
4. rear torsion bar suspension
5. diff drop plate

cheers,brian

#15 gadberry

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 10:51 PM

Ok, I've Began the install of the kit and want to
confirm the rear diff plate should be sandwiched
between the diff and the existing/stock plate that rests
above the diff and contains the one bolt yoke
that the diff "hangs" from.. Sound right?

So the rear diff is dropped the thickness of
the metal plate? Just want to be sure,
I'm installing on an EA81 and I the my instructions
are for an EA82, since strut springs on the
rear wheels are referenced..

I'm taking pics but can't post them til later.

Thanks, gadberry

#16 gadberry

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:19 AM

Help needed. I have the torsion bar free ( 2 bolts each side along
"frame rails" and 4 nuts below diff, plus 1 hanger bolt that parallels
the torsion bar). I had to disconnect the brake lines on each
side, they were tight. The mustache bar and all mustache related
connections haven't been touched.....

I don't think the mustache bar is dropped with this kit, but
it will have to be disconnected to drop the torsion bar
enough to install the 4 blocks and drop plate.. Right?

Will the diff drop plate be horizontal w/ ground after install ?
Still not sure about that plate location..

I managed to remove the shock "top bushing tabs" from
the old shocks yesterday (for reuse w/new shocks) but
fitting a rubber bushing over those buggers and thru the
eye of the shocks looks like witch... A sliced length of
rubber hose might be the rear shock bushings on this rig..

I'll get a few pics of "progress" later, or lack of...

Thanks!

#17 bheinen74

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:32 AM

wow. I need to get some pictures for you. you have a few things wrong so far. the square drop plate is not sandwiched between anything. If you take the 2 nuts off from the Rear of the diff, it will drop 4 inches.

the plate is place like this

|

when looking from the tires towards the center of the car. It has 2 holes that will attache to the studs on the back of the diff cover, use washers and nuts to attach the plate to the rear cover. Then the other 2 holes at the tops will go back thru the mustache bar holes, use the 2 short bolts with nuts to attach, and washers.

The rear brake lines to not come undone, you just pry them loose from the holding stay brackets, and bend the line down about 3 inches, careful no to break the line. the brake extenders from your kit are for the front brakes....

#18 gadberry

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:56 AM

Wow is right.. Your description makes alot more sense, because
the instructions from slideshow are for an EA82 and I'm werkin
on a EA81.

Ok so the plate mounts vertically to the rear of the diff by 2
bolts (orig) and the 2 center bolts of the mustache bar attach
to bottom of plate (new hardware). So the outer mustache
bar attachments stay in stock locations?

That clears up a lot of cornfusion... The lowering of the carrier
bearing is also confusing but I'm not there yet. Lemme get
the rear done...

However, I knew the brakeline extensions are for the
front, but the rear lines were already stressing and I
had more lowering to go so I disconnected them just
to be safe.. Lines needed flushing anyway and extensions
might be needed because there's no way to make slack
on my rear hatch brakelines.
Thanks much for the help!!!

#19 bheinen74

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 09:05 AM

yes. Also, the rear carrier bearing of the diff stays factory. the whole torsion bar tube is blocked 4" with the blocks. You can put the big bolt back thru the front carrier stay.

correct, the Mustache bar stays factory.

I had the same trouble with the shock bushings moving from the oe shocks to the skyjackers, that was a hard time. Reuse your lower shock steel sleeves/collars. I was able to get my old busings in wihtout totally screwing them up. I used silicone spray, oil, etc to grease them up and a shop vise to twist them in......it took a long time to do that.

#20 gadberry

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 12:59 PM

Ok, I've uploaded a few more pics to picasa (there's a link below to a particular pic I have a question about).

It looks as though there should be a spacer or spacer's on top of the
differential after it's lowered 4".. The 1 'fat bolt' will be re-inserted in
it's stock location; then 4 "kit provided" long bolts will be inserted from
the bottom; thru the diff and up, thru the original (thin) hanger plate
shown in the photo below... nut/washer applied to top and all four tightened up snug...

There will be a gap between the top of the diff and the top plate since
the rear (vertical) diff plate will be spacing the differential down 4" from
the stock (2) center mustache connections.. correct?

http://picasaweb.goo...feat=directlink

hope my question makes sense... I don't want to leave out any needed
spacers..

maybe I can figure out how to include a fre'kn foto in the post without it having to be a URL... one of these
days...

thanks again,
gadberry.

#21 monstaru

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 01:19 PM

dude the front of the diff should stay exactly like it is.put it back together.

the rear of the diff with the two horizontal BOLTS, that are mounted to the mustache bar,are the ones we are talking about.

when you get this , you will go DOH!you are thinking about it to much......cheers, brian

#22 bheinen74

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 01:22 PM

the whole front pivot above the diff, put the bolt back thru the hole. Also, put the nuts back on the bottom 4 studs and tighten that plate back up.

The only thing you touch on the rear diff is the 2 nuts holding it to the mustache bar. Place your 4" plate there on the back cover of the diff.

#23 gadberry

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 02:20 PM

Guys, thanks for clarifying where I've gone wrong thus far..

your patience is appreciated..

Ok, so the rear diff plate is used to drop the diff down from the 2 center
bolts on the Mustache bar.. I'll only need to short bolts/washers/nuts for
that attachment..

Where will the four NEW long bolts included with the kit go?

#24 bheinen74

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 02:23 PM

the four long bolts are the ones i am referring to as being too large in diameter for the front engine cross blocks.
You need to either drill the frame rails and use those bolts, or go find smaller diameter bolts and not drill. I did not want to drill my frame rails so i could take it back to stock if i ever chose to do so.
Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by bheinen74, 28 September 2009 - 02:32 PM.


#25 bheinen74

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 02:33 PM

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