gadberry Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Ok, got ya.. I had mis-interpreted the instructions posted earlier in this thread or had my mind set on those 4 long bolts being used for the rear diff... wrong again gadberry!.. the four long bolts are the ones i am referring to as being too large in diameter for the front engine cross blocks. You need to either drill the frame rails and use those bolts, or go find smaller diameter bolts and not drill. I did not want to drill my frame rails so i could take it back to stock if i ever chose to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadberry Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 ol'bonehead put the friendly USMB members advice to good use last night.. I corrected the over-disassembly mistakes from the day before; then removed a section of the uffler heat shield, right below the torsion-bar to enable the rear diff to be dropped down enough to install the rear diff plate (correctly, I think) plus the 4 'outboard' blocks at the torsion connections. haven't installed the four 4" drop blocks for the torsion bar connections yet, because I'm gonna need washers for the original frame bolts since they're too long to tighten without a spacer.. that's for later tonight... BTW- Is it possible to leave the A/C compressor in its stock location with a 4" EA81 lift? It looks like it will hit the left front fender well as the engine is dropped down, so can I correct this with a BFH ? I'm not certain if the A/C will hold a charge or not, I've not used it or checked it.. but i see that bump in the road coming. one of many I suppose:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 (edited) on the AC, make 2 4" long bracket with flat steel and a couple holes, one hole at top and one at bottom. I will take a picture of mine tonight to show you basically what i mean, in order to preserve the factory stock location and height of the AC compressor in relation to the lines, and hoses up by the radiator. You do not want to lower the compressor when you lower the engine in relation to body. You want the AC compressor to remain in exact spot it is now, in relation to the engine bay, hood etc so that is why the 4" long straight steel pieces. which holds the AC up after you drop it, or you can use some short peices of wood block to hold it. a couple 2 inch thick short boards will aid you you don't bump it too much. undo your front engine crossmember after the car is on jackstands and oyou are supporting the engine with a jack. lower a tiny bit, then place wood blocks under AC to raise it, lower engine a bit more, block more etc........now for running the belt to AC, thats up in the air, but i think i got some plans on that for you too. we are guinea pigs, nobody else uses the AC but we want to. not sure why your lift block bolts are too long? reuse your stock bolts in the stock locations going into frame rails, and then use the new bolts on the bottoms of the blocks to your suspension members. Oh wait, i think i had to use some extra washers i had laying around the shop too. all is well. I like the red. Edited September 29, 2009 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadberry Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Thanks for the A/C compressor tips.. Your pic would really help, especially for the front lift block locations. Maybe I won't remove or disassembe more than what's needed on the front. Ha I have all but the shocks installed on the rear... Well there's 2 or 3 sheetmetal bolts to reattch to the heat shield oh, and I need fresh 1/2" x 1.5" grade 5 bolts/nuts for the remaining blocks. Oh, rear brake hoses too... Will have to have them made. Q: Are subie brake hose connections standard/common? They look to be but I've never had any made up.. Any tips for the front installation? Disconnect emergencybrake linkage where? Drain coolant, check battery ground near batt box and under spare.. Block/support a/c compressor.. Double check any wiring harness and heater core lines at firewall. Does the front sway bar stay attched during the lifting ? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 sorry forgot about pics for front, tonight will do. Drain coolant from radiator, pull loose the bottom radiator hose from the engine side. Pull off the top hose from radiator. Do you have a weber? Take top hose to parts auto store and buy long flexible hosing in the same tubing size. After the thing is all done, you need to shorten and reuse your bottom hose. speedo cable undo clamp/bracket so it can move around some. Emerg brake cable brackets untuck from the center tunnel under the floor near the driveshaft/tranny so they can move around. sway bar stays attached. unplug the green wire going to your O2 sensor because it has a chance to be stretched during the process, it is long enough but disconnect for now. transmission, remove the dogbone to bell housing. Near the dogbone is a Black ground wire. Detach that, cut wire in half, splice in with butt connector longer wire chunk, that wire will be too short otherwise. vacuum line brakcet ver by shock tower, remove bracket screw, it will bend down enough. etc etc etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadberry Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 (edited) Ok, the rear of the kit is installed (pics coming later) all but the rear brake hose extensions (ordered). Will I have to remove any interior trim around the 2wd/4wd shifter to allow for movement during the front body lift? I poked around underneath the front of the car last night, and the engine drop blocks are obvious and then the remaining 6 blocks (three per side) attached in a group of 3 per side around the bracket that the front sway bar is attached too.. The top of the struts is what I'm unclear on.. will I need a spring compressor to deal with the spacers for the struts? I don't think so, but I'm not certain.... any/all help would be appreciated. gadberry http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=184&pictureid=1719 Edited October 7, 2009 by gadberry uploaded pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadberry Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 (edited) Will begin lifting the front today. Q: when should strut top nuts (2) be unbolted and dropped for tower installation. After the 2 engine and 6 smaller blocks have been installed and tightened? I undestand that those blocks should be tightened last. I've disconnected the emergency brake cables at the interior lever. Disconnected the 4 vacuum hoses that attached to the left strut tower then route around to the charcoal canister behind the drivers side headlight. Disconnected the A/C Compressor from the mount and moved it up out of the way.. Black wire coming from it was disconnected so don't think it was working anyways... don't know if it'll stay or go after the lift is completed. Disconnected the Steering shaft (lower section) and did not remove or disconnect anything else.. it's non-power steering. Disconnected 2 wires to the coil from the engine that (yellow/white to rear terminal and black/white to front terminal, plus the center coil plug..) Disconnected the H/L range shifter linkage on top of case; accessible from under hood; center of firewall. Q: can the muffler hanger off the transmission remain in place during the drop. Looks ok but would prefer confirmation. Many thanks in advance for input Edited October 5, 2009 by gadberry corrections and updates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadberry Posted October 7, 2009 Author Share Posted October 7, 2009 (edited) Answered my own question.. yes, the 2 strut bolts must be undone before the engine will lower enough to insert a 4" tall block between the frame and the engine crossmember.. Also had to unbolt the engine mounts and the 6 bolts holding the front sway bar and control arms to frame before I could lower the engine 'square enough' for the engine block bolts (btw- they should be 10m x 200mm grade 5 sizes for an EA81 else they won't fit through the stock holes for the engine blocks)..where was I, oh, those rear (6) bolts had to come out before the engine would drop down and be positioned to insert bolts.. I won't have an A/C in this GL anymore... the combination bracket made to support the Alternator AND the A/C Compressor is too long to drop 4" within an EA81 and not hit the driver-side frame rail... about 3/4" too wide which is about hte width of the 2 stud lugs that are hang'n off the end of that arm for the A/C compressor.. so alittle hacksaw and then a sawzall, and off came the A/C compressor mount... Seemed like a solution at the time, but next summer I'll wish I'd scratched my head a bit more... maybe. HELP, with the strut tower positioning would be appreciated.. I have a slideshow kit, and not sure which way to position those towers that go above the front struts.. thanks in advance, gadberry Edited October 7, 2009 by gadberry typo correction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 Sorry your having troubles. If you were looking at the front of the car at the drivers side strut this is how the spacer would be installed. It will be pointing out at the top and in at the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadberry Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the pic !! I hope to be back on task Thursday nite yep, here's the next modification required.. extension of the shift stick.. I believe the fix is to "cut" right above the 'curl' and then insert/weld a 3/4" extension that slightly offset's the shift lever towards the driver-side, front corner of the car... sound about right? best regards, gadberry Edited October 16, 2009 by gadberry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 did you have any luck with this or do you want some picts of the shift lever fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadberry Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 (edited) Thanks for checking in w/me.. I've been busy with work but I have had success with shifter linkage fixes. I added 3/4" round stock to both shift linkages is the long story short. The gear shifter solution (for me anyways) was to cut the shifter just above the RING but before the "curl", then rotate the top section about 120 degrees "counter-clockwise" so that the curl juts outward toward the driver-side front corner of the car; then insert the 3/4" extension and tack it, then test it, then weld it up if all is good, and it was for me. Visit my photo gallery pics and view the comments for these pictures for another explanation if this wasn't clear... or ask me, I'll try to help. I found an excellent local welder that was willing to work w/me through the issue and he did a fine job. The HI-LO shift linkage required a 3/4" round stock insert too, but the lower section had to be reattached so that the lower bolt-eye would be about 1/2" lower than it would have been with just the 3/4" extension... so view the pics and see if that makes sense to ya if you're in the same boat I was... these mods were for an 1981 GL wagon with a 4" lift and I was able to replace all original interior hardware and all shifting works well and hi/lo lights on the dash work as they should.. I've got wheels ready to go and I my 215 75 R15 BFG's should be here this week, so I'll post pics of it again soon. hopefully muddy as #$%@ with my fat head in the cockpit.. ha! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=184&pictureid=1812 Edited November 2, 2009 by gadberry F'n images are a pain in my ars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadberry Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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