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lift for a legacy wagon


gregvdd
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I have a 2001 legacy wagon, I'm planning to lift it using outback struts and wheels... i guess it's a pretty direct swap...but what about the cv joints ?

 

Is there any photos around of such a set up ?

 

Thanks/ MErci

 

Greg from Montreal QC

 

I'm a 95 legacy owner using 98 OB struts and springs. That was a straight swap, no problems with VC axles or anything. I realize this is not the same set up as you have but hope I can shed a little info for your interest, if not just a few more question to ask.

 

I looked (briefly) into an OB swap into a 2000/2001 Legacy sedan but found those (I think 2000 and newer) got a different rear suspension (independent?) from my model year, and was confused if it would still be a straight swap from similar model year OB to legacy.

 

I asked around but unfortunately fell short on replies.

Hopefully someone can chime in here though and steer you straight, but it seems to me you'd do the front struts straight from an OB into your legacy no problem with CVx or anything (maybe a camber kit (simply a special pair of bolts for the lower strut mounting holes) to help with your later allignment), and the rears would be the coil spring (taller in OB) and separate shock (longer travel? in OB) from an OB to the Legacy.

 

I've also since found out its a good idea to bring the spacer block from the engine crossmember of the OB into your legacy (It fits between the engine crossmember and the body) as well as look into the rear swing arm mounting bracket. BUT since the rear suspension is different from my model year this may not apply.

 

I can post pix of the engine cross member blocks and the swing arm mount later (I am not at home with camera, car and parts just now)...

 

Hope this helps and it'll be good to see a newer model year OB lift!!

Congrats and good luck,

-mark-

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Here are pix for parts I had to look for.

Possibly similar for you (particularly the engine crossmember block) but I assume the rear might be a touch different.

3976444695_33e64cf171.jpg

3976444549_6a6c52c42a.jpg

 

3977207508_945ee1a1cd.jpg

good luck,and please keep us posted on lifting this model year on outback stuff!

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Just use the struts, not the body pieces.

 

On the 2000 plus models they are signifigantly harder to remove. The blocks are larger and are bolted to the body well before the crosssmembers are installed.

 

Also, you would need the control arm pivots from an Outback as well to match the drop.

 

You lose clearance underneath by dropping the crossmembers as well.

 

Also a longer OB steering coupler would be needed.

 

 

 

 

Trust me, just go with the struts.

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Just use the struts, not the body pieces.

 

On the 2000 plus models they are signifigantly harder to remove. The blocks are larger and are bolted to the body well before the crosssmembers are installed.

 

Also, you would need the control arm pivots from an Outback as well to match the drop.

 

You lose clearance underneath by dropping the crossmembers as well.

 

Also a longer OB steering coupler would be needed.

 

 

 

 

Trust me, just go with the struts.

 

So is that all you need to do on these newer rigs, the OB front struts and the OB rear coil and shock/strut?

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I believe the Forester struts and springs will get you a little more. I have heard the outback is about 1" and the forester is about 1.5". They just bolt right in, and there are no additional problems.

 

Forrester struts are not compatible with 2000+ model outbacks.

 

 

Additionally, we used Forrester struts for the rear of a recent lift, and when we where done, his car could not clear the 235/75/15 tires like the cars we lifted with OB struts. The tire rubbed hard on the spring perch of the strut.

 

So it seems the forrester strut is longer, but the distance from knuckle to spring perch is less.

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