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I'm stumped. '95 EJ22 won't start
Posted 12 October 2009 - 08:39 PM
his description of the initial incident: "I just pulled out of my parking spot when I hit the gas and the car chugged a bit (almost died). Immediately I put it in reverse and backed up were it continued to run really rough. I hit the gas one last time to rev it up and it died. "
we spent a couple hours tinkering with it tonight. I'm stuck....so I present our findings to the committee.......hopefully someone else here can get us pointed in the right direction.
It cranks over very unevenly...like it doesn't have compression on all cylinders. sounds like an EA82 subaru with a broken driver's side t-belt while cranking.
we pulled the end tbelt covers off. the belt looks to be in good shape, and timing is on.
Fuel pump is coming on as it should.
it sort of fired once, but not enough to start.
we borrowed an OBD II reader from Advance auto. 3 codes came up. MAP circuit, misfire cyl 1, and catalyst below efficiency.
obviously the catalyst thing isn't anything to worry about. He says the CEL has never flashed while driving, so I'm assuming the misfire code has been a result of the cranking and stuff....since it was running last.
so, we un-plugged the MAP (the '86 wagon I swapped last year with a '96 2.2 ran fine for about 1k miles with the MAP un-plugged...just crappy mileage). cranked for a minute. no change.
un-plugged the MAF. after cranking for a minute. it started, and idled very smoothly. tried revving it, and it quit immediately. plugged the MAF back in, and it started again, idled very smoothly for awhile longer. but again, quit as soon as the throttle was touched.
We tried a number of combinations of the MAF plugged in and not. and were able to get it to run. but as soon as you touch the throttle, it stumbles and quits.
Suspecting a bad MAF. we threw both of his (he had a spare) in my car. ran just as it always has.
So. it isn't the MAF itself. but when it's unplugged, and the ECU is in limp mode, the problem is lessened. So, what exactly changes when in limp mode? is it just fuel maps that go to default, or does it effect ignition too.
my current thoughts are:
CAS (either one)
fuel pressure regulator
Posted 12 October 2009 - 09:11 PM
The FPR is a pretty simple check, pull the vacuum hose off and see if gas drips out.
Stalling on throttle input could be due to a bad TPS. It could be a stuck or sticking idle control valve, could be a large vacuum leak. If you have a vacuum gauge hook it up and see what it reads at idle.
Posted 12 October 2009 - 11:52 PM
Posted 13 October 2009 - 11:25 AM
Posted 13 October 2009 - 05:00 PM
Posted 13 October 2009 - 05:38 PM
I'd check for sticking valves as well. its not uncommon to have those motors build up carbon on the exhaust valves and stick the valves open when cold. Just stick a vacuum gauge on the manifold while its running (if you can keep it running) and see if the needle flutters and bounces around.
Also see what your ECT is reading. If it's failed suddenly it may not have set a code yet.
A fully plugged cat could cause some serious issues, but it should still start up okay.
Thats where is would start.
Posted 13 October 2009 - 08:24 PM
lift up the carpet in the back and tap on the fuel pump assembly (while its still in the tank) if it seems to run fine after u hammer on it a few times, pump is dying (brushes are losing contact) There is a way to do an amp draw test on a fuel pump to check that but I cant remember how it goes ( I just know what pins to test on a vortec chevy)
Fail Safe mode: Fuel maps are cut down, ignition timing retarded are two of things I know it does when it goes into limp home mode.
Posted 13 October 2009 - 10:49 PM
coil pack and ignitor were swapped out with other used ones. symptoms didn't change. might go over and see if they work on my car tomorrow to see if they're any good.
plugs were replaced.
I'll see if we can get ahold of a vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge to test those ideas.
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