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CV axle boot replacement - how much grease?


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12 replies to this topic

#1 grossgary

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 06:31 PM

As a general rule I have always avoided CV axles because grease is annoying. So this is my first one.

I bought the boot kit, is the packet of grease usually right, too little or too much?

on a side note - why doesn't the grease end up just getting pushed out into the convolutions of the boot?

The packet doesn't seem like enough to fill the DOJ housing, but I haven't done it yet so maybe it does?

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 06:41 PM

All the boot kits I've done say to use the entire pouch. They say to pack the grease into joint and use the rest to in the boot. Never had an issue doing it this way. It is important to get the bands on REALLY tight. If you don't they will slip off the joint.

Speaking economically, I doubt the bean-counters would allow them to include *more* grease than you needed to do the job. And they wouldn't sell many boots if they shorted you on grease. I think it's in their best intrest to at least try to include about the right amount.

Also - you NEVER want to "fill" the housing. There has to be room for expansion. 1/3 full is industry standard for bearing cavities.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 22 October 2009 - 06:45 PM.


#3 john in KY

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 09:01 PM

Gary,

Last axle I bought was at least 10 years ago. Probably have rebooted 20 or more axles over the years. Wagon with 210K miles eg still has the original axles. Anyways, use diesel to clean the joints. Make sure you install the clamps on the axle shaft before installing the boots. The packet of new grease is all you need. I just pack it in there and yet to have a problem. You'll need a tool to secure the clamps. At least 3 different types of clamps so good idea to take one of the new clamps to NAPA and match the tool to the clamp. Once the diesel does it's job, really not a messy job. The two end clamps can be a problem to install depending on what type clamp came with the kit. But if you have the type of clamp I am thinking about, it will fit. Just have to work at it.

edit: Forgot to mention the two internal snap rings. The big one can be rolled out with a screwdriver. The little guy requires a snap ring removal tool.

Edited by john in KY, 22 October 2009 - 09:03 PM.


#4 grossgary

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 10:16 PM

The bands weren't what I was expecting. It has "notches" on the top of it so to speak. Tempted to use hose clamps, though I know they are too wide and lots of folks say not to do that.

Edited by grossgary, 22 October 2009 - 10:18 PM.


#5 TheLoyale

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 10:45 PM

Which boot are we talking about? the one for the CV or the one closest to the tranny? Cause the boot closest to the tranny on mine has a pin hole in it and has been pumping out some grease when it get hot. Been like that for about 2500miles. I figure it isn't to big of a deal at the moment as it doesn't need to turn, it just needs to sping and pivet.

Whats better, replacing the entire axle with new, or just the boot(s) ? Seems easier to replace the entire axle, maybe its just me?

-Tom :)

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 10:55 PM

Gary - get the pliers for your type of boot clamp - they are $10 at the local discount auto parts house here. The other option is to source the VW 1/4" wide (6mm) axle boot clamps. They are hose clamps but are thin to fit in the groove that the regular boot clamp fits in. Check to make sure you have enough clearance for the hose clamp worn gear all around where it will sit on the joint.

Loyale - If it just has a pin-hole then you can do both boots without removing the axle from the knuckle. It's not that fun but it's doable. I typically remove them anyway as I've been doing it since the beginning of time and I'm pretty quick at this point. You do run the risk of not having the removal go well and ending up replacing the axle and wheel bearings anyway. Safest bet is to just reboot it with two new ones and make sure the grease still looks good - scrape away some and add about as much as you remove plus a bit for what's been lost through the pin-hole. Better that you do it now as if you wait till the axle splits completely there's a much greater chance of contamination of the grease/joint and then you will have to remove the axle to properly clean it out.

GD

#7 TheLoyale

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 11:07 PM

GD, ok that sounds good. Now not to sound like an idiot. but the round metel housing that slides onto the tranny spline is called? So just so I know what I'm doing. once I get a boot kit, I only want to replace the one thats crap ATM. SO anyhoo, do I cutoff the old boot. then I need to pop the axle out of the metel housing? so I am able to slip the new boot/clamp onto the axle. Then reattach the axle to the metel housing then worrie about tighting the clamps for the boot? If its set up the way I think it is, how do you remove the axle from the metel housing thing? is that called a DOJ? Lol sorry for these lame Qs. you know me better then this, but I just want to dubble check with you :)

-Tom

Edited by TheLoyale, 22 October 2009 - 11:10 PM.


#8 TheLoyale

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 11:17 PM

GD, I found Chux axle rebuild thread and this will help me alot!

I still would like to hear your take on it anyway if you have time.

Thank you NumbChux for tis thread and pictures!
-Tom

#9 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 11:58 PM

My axle rebuild write-up should answer most of your questions. It's geared towards EA81 rear axles, but it applies to the EA front inner joint as well. The front outer joint is not easily dissasembled as you need a special tool and ideally a press to do it right.

http://home.comcast....rebuilding.html

GD

#10 grossgary

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 09:23 AM

The front outer joint is not easily dissasembled as you need a special tool and ideally a press to do it right.

really? is this true for all subaru axles, XT6, EJ?

The other option is to source the VW 1/4" wide (6mm) axle boot clamps.

are those available at VW only?

a likely bad idea would be to try and plug the hole in the boot with some pliable epoxy/patch-ish stuff after refilling with grease through a needle fitting.

i would definitely reboot a good axle before buying another. i'd pay a shop/machine shop $50 to reboot it for me before getting another axle. shop across the street from work charges me $40 to install a boot if I bring them the axle.

Edited by grossgary, 23 October 2009 - 09:30 AM.


#11 TheLoyale

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 09:34 AM

GD, yep this write-up will help aswell (Can never enough info)

Gary, its not really a hole per say, but more like a very small rip shaped like an arrow (Or an L) anyway, yea I was thinking about adding some grease to it and try to seal it for the time being. Anyone know if an apoxy will do so? and how would you clean the outsid of the boot from grease so the apoxy will adhere?

-Tom :)

#12 subaruman5

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 04:27 AM

Is it really necessary to index the inner race and the cage assembly for the rear axles?

#13 grossgary

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 01:47 PM

Is it really necessary to index the inner race and the cage assembly for the rear axles?

i have no idea what that means so i'm guessing not. rears are pretty benign, just clean them and put them back together, i wouldn't get crazy and try to disassemble the outer joint.




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