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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Heater contorl unit repair.


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8 replies to this topic

#1 hardtail_pride

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 12:35 PM

So i have recently taken apart my dash in hopes to fix my heater controls. Current problems are: Only the 2 highest fan speeds and only blows on the BI-Level. ( i did replace the knob sensor for the fan speeds, but no change. Oh and put in another used heater blower motor with no change)

Not huge issues cause i still have hot air though. But it rained and made me realize i need a defrost function still. Those little vacuum lines dont seem to be pinched that come off the back. Maybe when i re assemble it they become pinched? Anyone have any luck with these issues?

#2 crazyman03

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 01:04 PM

i had a similar issue. (still have only 2 speeds on the blower) but there is a vacuum line coming off the engine to a resonating container. Mine is a ea82 wagon, so it is on the passenger side just next to the firewall. you might try looking around there and see if the vacuum line came off. there are 2 on the resonating container, 1-in, 1-out. Just a thought


-Justin

#3 Numbchux

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 02:25 PM

fan speed issue is because of broken resistors in the resistor pack (bolted to the blower box under the glove box). This is very common....I found a new resistor pack on ebay a while ago for a reasonable price....but I'm sure it'll fail soon as well. Someone had a write-up years ago about soldering in some better resistors that don't heat up and fail as easily.


the other is a vacuum issue. start by tracing the lines in the engine bay (as crazyman suggested). it's not uncommon for that line to slip off the intake manifold.

There's a little metal guard over the lines to prevent pinching...so that probably isn't your problem. if you know you're getting vacuum to the switch, it could be the switch itself. it's a fairly simple mechanism, with little sliding plastic pieces, if these don't seal (there's some sort of grease on there that helps...but it seems that it usually dries up), you'll have problems. I tried a few different switches, with no luck.....so I did this:
http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=66673

that was 3 years ago. still running it like that. always just on Heat and Defrost. which works fine. I think I'll try the switch from my parts car in it before I sell it though.

#4 hardtail_pride

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 03:19 PM

Im curious about this resonator container. Does anyone have a pic of it?

#5 crazyman03

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 10:35 PM

i apologize for the crudity of the picture, its dark out.. but it looks something like this. the white thing in the corner.

Posted Image

Edited by crazyman03, 25 October 2009 - 10:36 PM.
spell check = friend


#6 hardtail_pride

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 10:39 PM

Oh perfect i know where it is now. So this contraption :) switches my settings between defrost, heat bilev, etc? Thanks again for the pic

#7 crazyman03

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 10:15 AM

well, it doesnt actually do the "switching"; think of it like a air tank. it's pressurized....ish. the actual switching mechanism is the control itself. When you switch from one mode to another it re-route's the vacuum tubes to open and close certain "doors". Physically too i believe. that resonating chamber simply supplies a constant pressure/vacuum so that the control can do that.


-Justin

#8 Cougar

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 09:12 AM

To locate the resistor pack just follow the wiring back from the blower motor. Those leads should tie to the resistor pack. It is mounted on the air ducting to cool the resistors.

#9 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 09:30 AM

The white canistor is a vacuum accumulator. Not a storage tank per-se (you can't effectively store vacuum), but rather it maintains even vacuum as the manifold vacuum changes. Check the vacuum line routing to the tank and make sure nothing is cracked or loose or disconnected.

GD




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