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Automatic door locks


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20 replies to this topic

#1 crazyman03

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Posted 31 October 2009 - 07:10 PM

Hello all! I have a Valet Remote start system that I'm wanting to put in my '88 GL SPFI 5sp. I have all the necessary wires, relays and such but my question is: do i need a door actuator for the key less entry?? I know i have automatic door locks on all 4 doors (5 if you include the hatch). Does the driver side door not actuate like the other 4? Anyway, I was looking up the wiring and they said I needed an actuator and i was slightly confuzled because of the auto door locks. thanks for the input!


-Justin

#2 crazyman03

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Posted 31 October 2009 - 07:15 PM

I imagine I do need one seeing as the passenger side door doesn't effect the driver's door. What kind of actuator will i need to purchase to make this work. has anyone done this to their 'roos?


-Justin

#3 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 31 October 2009 - 08:11 PM

Correct - the driver's door has no power capability since it is the only way the factory power locks are operated. You will have to add an actuator to it to make the system work.

GD

#4 crazyman03

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 12:10 PM

Here's an interesting question: Will the actuator in the rear lift gate work to unlock/lock the driver's door for this application?




-Justin

#5 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 01:36 PM

I have no clue. If I were you, I wouldn't expect anyone here to know the answer to that so I would hit the junk yard and get dirty.

Incidentally, that's basically how I know what I do - I get dirty.... a lot. Asking questions will only get you so far - sort of a "point in the right direction". At the end of the talking though you have to dive in as there are details that you won't get any other way.

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#6 crazyman03

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 01:42 PM

I actually figured as much and would've probably tried it anyway. Just thought I'd ask since I'm at work and it would've been a while before actually trying it. Didn't know if someone already attempted it or not.

thanks!


-Justin

#7 eulogious

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 03:02 PM

Here's an interesting question: Will the actuator in the rear lift gate work to unlock/lock the driver's door for this application?




-Justin


I have installed aftermarket power door locks in my wagon a few years ago, and all the actuators where the same. Following that logic, the rear hatch should be the same as all the others, but I really don't know. Also, you can go buy a new actuator from car toys or any car stereo store for pretty cheap and wire it into the system. That's what I would do. Leave the stock stuff alone, and just add an actuator to the driver door, and then wire in the keyless entry. My 2 cents...

#8 crazyman03

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 01:00 AM

Leave the stock stuff alone, and just add an actuator to the driver door, and then wire in the keyless entry. My 2 cents...



Well, I'm going for spending zero dollars on the project. Working with what i have around the garage.

On a side note.. The lift gate actuator did bolt up to the drivers door. I had to do some jerry-riggin' to the lock bars. to get them to work with the shortened handle from the rear. But it worked. I wired up the "new" actuator to the current locking system (which was nifty because the sending unit had the wires /right/ there... put together some relays to lock/unlock upon command from the alarm.

#9 eulogious

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 02:34 PM

Well, I'm going for spending zero dollars on the project. Working with what i have around the garage.

On a side note.. The lift gate actuator did bolt up to the drivers door. I had to do some jerry-riggin' to the lock bars. to get them to work with the shortened handle from the rear. But it worked. I wired up the "new" actuator to the current locking system (which was nifty because the sending unit had the wires /right/ there... put together some relays to lock/unlock upon command from the alarm.


Hey, so I just picked up the same Valet 562T system that you got (for only $20 go ebay :grin:) and I had a few questions. From the sounds of it, you got the drivers side door to unlock separately from the others, like on modern cars, correct? So when you push the button once, it unlocks just the drivers, and then push it again to unlock them all? That would be sweet, and I am looking to do that. You mentioned that you wired in some relays, how did you setup that up? Relays are slightly confusing to me still, working on that...

Also, did you get everything to work with the car, ie auto start, door intrusion, dome light control, etc? You got any tips to share for someone looking to install this unit soon? Any hangs ups that I should look out for? I am getting my FSM any day now, so that will help, but any pointers that you have would be really helpful, since you already wired it in :)

Thanks!

#10 crazyman03

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:37 PM

The Alarm was actually pretty strait forward. I used the wiring schematic at the12volt.com (here) I couldn't find GL or Loyale exactly but Justy worked. (for my GL) Keep in mind using it as a guideline not a fact.

As far as the Relays went. i didn't separate the driver door from the others BUT you can if you really wanted to.. you will need to use the Blue wire located on the H1 Harness Pin 7 (main harness) if you have a different model see the "second unlock output" wire

Relays are pretty easy to work with when you figure out how they work and what you need to supply. howto: here

The way the locks work is when one position is Positive (+) the other is thrown Negitive (-) so, when Unlocked: the Unlock Wire will be Positive, and the Lock wire will be Negitive. And Locked: Locked wire will be Positive, the Unlocked wire will be Negitive. You cant just put power to one side or the other (i tried that the locks either dont flip completely, or freak out) You have to Switch the Opposite side.

The way I did it is this:
Locked Mode - Relay 1: Pin 85-Blue (+) Lock Wire from alarm, Pin: 86-GROUND, Pin: 87A-GROUND, Pin: 87-Positive 12 Volt, Pin: 30 Positive while Locked Wire (all doors).

UnLocked Mode - Relay 1: Pin 85-Green(+) UNLock Wire from alarm Pin: 86-GROUND, Pin: 87A-GROUND, Pin: 87-Positive 12 Volt, Pin: 30 Positive while UNLocked Wire (since you want the driver door isolated, this will be on the actuator).

since you want to have the other 3 doors (or 4 if you include the hatch) only unlock with the 2nd pulse of the unlock you will need to make the same UNLock relay for the blue 2nd unlock wire from the alarm. (same pinouts, just put the 2nd unlock wire in the stead of the Green wire)

your best bet will to be NOT installing the relays in the driver door. the window takes up a lot of room inside the door, and water likes to hide out in there. there is a little 4-pin wire connector at the driver kick panel. that goes to the door. you can remove and put the relays between it. (white, black, red, red i beleive probe to be sure)

The door Actuator Sending unit (dont know what its really called, thats what i'm calling it) uses the same size wire connector but NOT THE SAME Pinout! you will need to reverse a couple wires, i cant remember what it is though, compare to a different door.


Hope this is helpfull, I kinda went a little overboard. This could probably make its way to the repair forum


-Justin

#11 crazyman03

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:42 PM

oh, btw you can find installation manuals for free on the12volt.com you just need to register.

#12 eulogious

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 05:19 AM

As far as the Relays went. i didn't separate the driver door from the others BUT you can if you really wanted to.. you will need to use the Blue wire located on the H1 Harness Pin 7 (main harness) if you have a different model see the "second unlock output" wire

Relays are pretty easy to work with when you figure out how they work and what you need to supply. howto: here

The way the locks work is when one position is Positive (+) the other is thrown Negitive (-) so, when Unlocked: the Unlock Wire will be Positive, and the Lock wire will be Negitive. And Locked: Locked wire will be Positive, the Unlocked wire will be Negitive. You cant just put power to one side or the other (i tried that the locks either dont flip completely, or freak out) You have to Switch the Opposite side.

The way I did it is this:
Locked Mode - Relay 1: Pin 85-Blue (+) Lock Wire from alarm, Pin: 86-GROUND, Pin: 87A-GROUND, Pin: 87-Positive 12 Volt, Pin: 30 Positive while Locked Wire (all doors).

UnLocked Mode - Relay 1: Pin 85-Green(+) UNLock Wire from alarm Pin: 86-GROUND, Pin: 87A-GROUND, Pin: 87-Positive 12 Volt, Pin: 30 Positive while UNLocked Wire (since you want the driver door isolated, this will be on the actuator).

since you want to have the other 3 doors (or 4 if you include the hatch) only unlock with the 2nd pulse of the unlock you will need to make the same UNLock relay for the blue 2nd unlock wire from the alarm. (same pinouts, just put the 2nd unlock wire in the stead of the Green wire)


Ok, so I made a drawing that makes what you said more clear, and I added in the wire colors from my hanyes manual... Are the colors the correct ones that you used? Here's the pic:

Attached File  Power Door Lock Relays for Alarm Install 562T.jpg   35.33K   15 downloads

I think that is what you were going for... Also since I am going to be using the 2 stage unlock, I am also going to have to bypass the stock power door lock controller unit (basically just a DPDT switch for all intensive purposes) for the car, and just use the valet 562t for that. Since all the power door locks are controlled by the drivers door, if I install an actuator in the driver side door and unlock it, all the locks will be unlocked, so I have to bypass the stock power door lock controller unit, or I won't get the 2 stage unlock. With that being said, I am going to cut the wires coming off the stock controller unit (Yellow and Red/White) and run them back through the door, into the cab, along with the new actuator wires, unless I can find them in the cab... That way I can install the relays all in the cab, under the dash. This is the simplest way to bypass the stock control unit, and relocate everything into the cab to protect it from the environment. I think that this is the easiest way to accomplish the 2 stage unlock. Once I get my FSM, I might be able to locate the wires already in the cab and use those instead, but I will have to wait until I get my FSM to be able to verify that. What are you thoughts on this? Is my logic correct?

your best bet will to be NOT installing the relays in the driver door. the window takes up a lot of room inside the door, and water likes to hide out in there. there is a little 4-pin wire connector at the driver kick panel. that goes to the door. you can remove and put the relays between it. (white, black, red, red i beleive probe to be sure)

The door Actuator Sending unit (dont know what its really called, thats what i'm calling it) uses the same size wire connector but NOT THE SAME Pinout! you will need to reverse a couple wires, i cant remember what it is though, compare to a different door.


I think that this statement might be referring to the wires in the cab, but I really don't know. Could you clarify this statement for me, thanks... I think you mean there is already a connector that you can use for this, but I am not sure.

Thanks a bunch for the link about the relays. It makes sense now. I have never really had a need to use relays for anything up until this point. I have wired in power door locks before, but they were after market and plugged right into the new "brain" that I bought for it. No relays required. I have done plenty of soldering and wiring and working with LED's and circuit boards, but never really needed to wire in any relays for anything. It sounds like they will be useful to me in the future as well. Again, thanks for that. Also thanks for explaining how you did the relays as well. I don't think that I would have figured it out without some help pointing me in the correct direction. Especially since I didn't really understand relays. You just saved me a huge headache and lots of time. Thanks for helping me out!

Edited by eulogious, 18 November 2009 - 07:06 AM.
Simplified Terms


#13 eulogious

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 05:20 AM

oh, btw you can find installation manuals for free on the12volt.com you just need to register.


Yup, Yup, I found those a couple of days ago just to be able to make sure I could get them before I bid on it :)

#14 eulogious

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 01:53 PM

So I went out to the JY today to pick up a power door lock actuator, was only $8 :grin:, and checked out the wiring in the car I took the actuator from. So the switch to lock and unlock the door is the same size as the actuator itself, and already has all the connections needed to make adding in an actuator instead, super easy. I think that was what crazyman was referring to with the little connector, and having to swap a couple of wires. I can now replace the switch with the actuator and then just cut the connection in the cab for the relays and to tap into the system. I am really glad I went and checked out a JY first, now I have a much better understanding of how everything works, and it should be pretty easy to add an actuator in.

Edited by eulogious, 18 November 2009 - 04:26 PM.


#15 eulogious

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 04:24 PM

On a side note.. The lift gate actuator did bolt up to the drivers door. I had to do some jerry-riggin' to the lock bars. to get them to work with the shortened handle from the rear. But it worked. I wired up the "new" actuator to the current locking system (which was nifty because the sending unit had the wires /right/ there... put together some relays to lock/unlock upon command from the alarm.


When I was at the JY today I grabbed the passenger door actuator so I could add it as the driver side actuator, and in order for it to function properly, I had to take the actuator apart and rotate the lock bar 180 degrees in it's housing so that the lock bar would face up properly and have enough clearance to lock and unlock. With that being done, I am still about a 1/2" shy from connecting the lock bars up. So how did you "jerry-rig" up the gate actuator, since it's MUCH shorter than the right passenger door actuator? I figure that if all else fails, I will just re-drill the holes for the actuator 1/2" up the door from where it is now. Or I can tack weld the existing bar to the "new" actuator bar to make up the difference. The problem with the tack weld option is that I don't have a welder, or know how to weld. I have a buddy with a welder, but that just adds another layer to the project. If you could give me some hints as to what you did, I might be able to get around it with out welding. Thanks!

#16 crazyman03

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 06:51 PM

The Jerry riggin' that i did involved simply bolting the actuator in the place where the "sending unit" was. it was the same size and the holes mounted right up. as for the locking bars, i used the one that was already there, and crimped it togather with the one i removed from the tail gate.


I imagine you've already figured this all out. I dont really surf much on my days off..


-Justin

#17 eulogious

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 03:08 AM

Ok, so I got the drivers side door motor in, and my locks working! The one thing that I realized in doing the locks this way is that I can no longer lock or unlock all my car doors from the inside the car or when it's running! It won't be a problem outside with the keyless entry, but I can't unlock/lock all the doors easily from the inside. So to remedy this, I installed a couple more relays and wired them up to some push button switches and I now have lock/unlock buttons in my car! I will have pics and diagrams for my wiring to get this to work. Now my keyless entry system will lock/unlock my doors, and I can lock/unlock all my doors from inside my car. It's good stuff. More to come...

#18 Scoobywagon

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:33 AM

I'm sorry that I didn't spot this thread earlier. I could've saved a bit of work.

Keyless entry in a Subaru is really very easy. All you have to do is get an actuator into the driver's door. Since Subaru's use what is called central locking, all of the other doors in the car imitate the drivers door. That's what that "sending unit" is for. To do this, you have two choices. You can add a regular 2 wire actuator or you can replace the "sending unit" with a 5 wire actuator.

The 2 wire actuator is the easier method, but it also means theres more crap in your door. You simply mount the actuator and then bend its link bar appropriately so that you can attach it to the car's lock linkage.

The 5 wire actuator is the way we usually try to go at work. Two wires are lock and unlock and cause the actuator to retract or extend. The other three wires give you a position. This way, the 5 wire actuator replaces the "sending unit" and all the other doors will mimic its lock position.

The 2 wire actuators should be found at any car stereo or alarm shop and should run $25 or less. The 5 wire actuators will generally be a bit more. Closer to $45. The brand you want is SPAL. They're Italian, but don't let that scare you. :grin: They make an excellent product that doesn't tend to fail.

#19 eulogious

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:56 AM

I'm sorry that I didn't spot this thread earlier. I could've saved a bit of work.

Keyless entry in a Subaru is really very easy. All you have to do is get an actuator into the driver's door. Since Subaru's use what is called central locking, all of the other doors in the car imitate the drivers door. That's what that "sending unit" is for. To do this, you have two choices. You can add a regular 2 wire actuator or you can replace the "sending unit" with a 5 wire actuator.

The 2 wire actuator is the easier method, but it also means theres more crap in your door. You simply mount the actuator and then bend its link bar appropriately so that you can attach it to the car's lock linkage.

The 5 wire actuator is the way we usually try to go at work. Two wires are lock and unlock and cause the actuator to retract or extend. The other three wires give you a position. This way, the 5 wire actuator replaces the "sending unit" and all the other doors will mimic its lock position.

The 2 wire actuators should be found at any car stereo or alarm shop and should run $25 or less. The 5 wire actuators will generally be a bit more. Closer to $45. The brand you want is SPAL. They're Italian, but don't let that scare you. :grin: They make an excellent product that doesn't tend to fail.


Thanks for the tip... I was going to do that, but I wanted to be different. I have installed after market power door locks all around on my old wagon, but I really wasn't pleased with the results. I had the five wire actuator on my old one. When I set out to do this mod, I thought about doing it that way, but like I said, I wasn't too pleased with the results the last time I did it, so I wanted a new and different way to accomplish the same thing. It was ALOT of work to fit everything into the doors and it made the bulged out on my old car... The main reason I did this was for the 2 stage unlock. Press once, drivers side unlocks, press again, the rest unlock. That was the original goal, which is fairly easy to accomplish with a few relays. I also wanted to add a switch in the cab for the driver.

I realize that this was totally the hard way to go, but it's totally worth it. I have more control over the power door locks then before. The actuator that I installed in the drivers door is actually the front passenger actuator from the JY. Cost me $6.99, and I found new relays w/pigtail for $3 a piece, including tax :grin: Gotta love your local electronics wholesaler. (On a side note, if you are in the Olympia area and need electronics (reistors,capicitors,switches, relay, etc.), check out ERI http://www.eresourcing.com/ they have EVERYTHING you could ever possibly want for electronics for cheap, and in stock!) I had to jerry-rig the lock bars, but it fits all up in there stock like. Doesn't make anything bulge out, and doesn't bind up on anything. Right now, everything is setup so all I have to do is wire in the keyless entry. I am really happy with the results that I got. I will be posting a complete guide to installing the keyless entry and remote start, including the FSM scans and wiring diagrams that I made for all this, but I need time to install it all, and then document it. But I will be posting a very through how to on this :grin: It's was alot of work firguring it out, but now that's it's done, it's really quite simple and works very well. Like I said, I accomplished exactly what I wanted to do. Sometimes I just like to be different ;)

#20 crazyman03

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 09:26 AM

So to remedy this, I installed a couple more relays and wired them up to some push button switches and I now have lock/unlock buttons in my car! I will have pics and diagrams for my wiring to get this to work. Now my keyless entry system will lock/unlock my doors, and I can lock/unlock all my doors from inside my car.


I spaced that you posted that.. I did the same thing.. i put a 3 way switch on the door. Up for unlock, down for lock, Middle for natural. but yea.. that was handy..

#21 crazyman03

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 09:56 AM

Right now, everything is setup so all I have to do is wire in the keyless entry. I am really happy with the results that I got. I will be posting a complete guide to installing the keyless entry and remote start, including the FSM scans and wiring diagrams that I made for all this.


I was actually going to get to that.. wasnt too sure if it was worth it to anyone on here.. but I'm yanking apart my dash today.. i'll take a few snaps of wire locations.

-Justin




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