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Window Seal/Rubbers (EA82)


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So, Mine are starting to go - I'm getting some moister between the glass and the rubber where it meets while the door is closed plus I do get a little water inside if I use water @ pressure (Hose, car wash ect.)

 

Does anyone have a clue what new rubbers will cost? Is it a Genuine only part? (Assuming it is)

 

I've been using some treatment on them to keep them soft and from cracking since I bought the car in '06. they are still soft and nice but seem like they could press against the glass harder.

 

Thanks for any knowledge on this,

-Tom

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Hi Tom ,

 

On your model does the door window glass press directly on the rubber seal ( like a hardtop car ) or does it have a metal frame around it ? I looked at your pictures and it looks like glass to rubber but its hard to tell . On some cars if you pull the door panel you will see where you can adjust the window channels a bit to angle the glass tighter against the rubber . Is the channel felts loose and letting the window flop around ? I'm new to Subes so I dont know if this is the case on yours . If it has a metal frame around it I have some tricks you can try ( worked in dealerships :)

 

Maybe you can move the door striker in a tad ..... but door has to line up to body panels too , so you cant move it much .

 

Typically new door seals are expensive anymore . Anything made from oil has skyrocketed .

 

I'm surprised that the seals would deteriorate up where you live as its pretty wet and rubber likes that . Here in Arizona its murder on rubber of any sort . I silicone them here too to try and keep 'em supple but its hard keeping them soft . Dry and lots of UV sunrays kill tires and rubber if you leave stuff outside in the heat .

 

Cant think of much more you could try , but maybe someone else has an answer .

 

Bob

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Hey Bob,

 

Yea the windows are frameless (Presses against the rubber to seal it) The window it self is sold (Doesn't wiggle around) But it just seems that it could press harder against the rubbers to seal it better. The rubbers are in pretty go shape, but I think they might be loosing there sponge(ieness) from the years of being pressed against the glass. Rubbers will still become old and crank if no one ever treats them, you figure it gets -20 here in winter and we do get hot summers (100+ deg. F) Most of the window rubber is coverd by the window when closed, but the little big that is expossed to the eliments has started cracking and became ruff (Was like that)

 

The other reason I've been using some rubber/plastic treatment on them it so it soaks in plumping them up for a little while (Kinda like spraying WD-40 or SeaFoam onto a bushing rubber to plump it up to take away any slack in it from age)

 

-Tom :)

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So, Mine are starting to go - I'm getting some moister between the glass and the rubber where it meets while the door is closed plus I do get a little water inside if I use water @ pressure (Hose, car wash ect.)

 

Does anyone have a clue what new rubbers will cost? Is it a Genuine only part? (Assuming it is)

 

I've been using some treatment on them to keep them soft and from cracking since I bought the car in '06. they are still soft and nice but seem like they could press against the glass harder.

 

Thanks for any knowledge on this,

-Tom

 

 

The windows can be adjusted to press harder against the seals IIRC, I know the EA81 and Gen 1 cars are like that, I would imagine the EA82's would be the same. Ill have to look at one of my parts cars to make sure

 

-Bill

Edited by The Beast I Drive
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The windows can be adjusted to press harder against the seals IIFC, I know the EA81 and Gen 1 cars are like that, I would imagine the EA82's would be the same. Ill have to look at one of my parts cars to make sure

 

-Bill

 

Bill, oh ok. I didn't know any Subaru had this. But then again it would be needed as not every Subaru was 100% the same, so things would have needed to be adjusted while on the assembly line.

 

Cool maybe I'll be able to adjust them :)

 

-Tom

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There should be a nut near the bottom of each corner when you take off the door panel, and a stud with a slot in it. Its kinda tricky, but Ive done it on my EA81 Brat and my mom's Gen 1 Brat.

 

-Bill

 

Hmm, I'll have to pop off the panel tomorrow (If it doesn't rain) and see what I find.

 

Thanks for the info!

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Speaking of door seals and rubber bits ...... theres some stuff called Formula 303 that really protects rubber , vinyl , paint etc from what I have heard . WAY better than Amorall and some other products like that ( I'm not a fan of Armorall , it will actually deteriorate rubber in heat and dry climates )

 

They use this 303 stuff on aircraft , boats and paintwork and supposed to be the very best you can get as a protectant and UV shield . Any of you guys ever tried it ?

 

I've looked for it in stores , but never seen it except online . Its not aLL that super expensive either .

 

Bob

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Bill, hmm ok. SO am I looking for the Window Sash ad Regulator mounting bolts? There is one in 3 of the cornors and two bolts in the cornor closet to the door handel (Outside) From what I'm seeing in my Chilton, they are talking about if the window tilts to far forward or to far rearward, but not about pushing in or out, Eh..

 

-Tom

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Those arent the ones, the ones you want might not be in the Chilton...

 

-Bill

 

OK, I have a Haynes aswell. I will check that. I don't have the interior part for the FSm so I'm SOL on that part lol. I'll just see what I find tomorrow :)

 

-Tom

 

And no, I won't wongleflute with anything unless I know what it is Hehe.

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Speaking of door seals and rubber bits ...... theres some stuff called Formula 303 that really protects rubber , vinyl , paint etc from what I have heard . WAY better than Amorall and some other products like that ( I'm not a fan of Armorall , it will actually deteriorate rubber in heat and dry climates )

 

They use this 303 stuff on aircraft , boats and paintwork and supposed to be the very best you can get as a protectant and UV shield . Any of you guys ever tried it ?

 

I've looked for it in stores , but never seen it except online . Its not aLL that super expensive either .

 

Bob

 

My work has it, of course. Yes, it's extremely good stuff and a little pricey though.

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EDIT:

 

That stuff sounds good, What I've been using is "Mothers Back-to-Black" its the best thing I have used so far, its not like Armorall or Black magic. This stuff conditons the rubber and doesn't become dependent on it.

 

I will have to check out 303 more :)

 

-Tom

 

WTF? I did an internet search for "Formula 303" and all it brings up is info about some "Anti-stress" drug? Haha!

Edited by TheLoyale
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LMAO , it does doesnt it ? Well ... watching your door rubbers and tires rot away on your pride and joy is pretty stressful you have to admit .

 

plug in "303 protectant" to get through the dope adds . :)

 

Does seem to be good stuff and worth the price if it does as it says . About 14 bucks for a 16 ounce squirt bottle . It says aerospace , maybe NASA sprays it on their rockets before they blast them into space .... thats good enough for me .

 

Seriously though , seems to be a good product not just hype and snake oil . I'm game to try it .

 

Bob

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Check your hinges on your door. I had the same problem as you, but I adjusted the hell out of the door glass regulators and everything and could NEVER get it to seal up the way it should. I grabbed the door when it was open and lifted up on it and sure enough I had slop in the pins on the hinges. Replaced em, no more air leak, no more water leak. The rubber is still shot but at least the hinges sealed it up long enough for me to try to track down new door moldings.

 

We really need to find a source for these. I'd like to replace all the door rubbers all the way around my car. Especially the dust seal that has those stupid little T shaped plastic fasteners that rip out of the rubber and you can never get them to stick back in. I've urethaned my moldings on, but I'd still like to find a source for OEM replacements.

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If the rubber has gone flat and adjustment doesn't gain anything you can stack out the gaskets with 3M double sided moulding tape. If you go this route just make sure the rubber and metal are dirt free before applying the tape.

I've had to do this on a lot of old cars when I was a body man. Oh yeah, this only works if he rubbers aren't torn.

Edited by mrblasty
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torxxx, The hinges are perfect - no play what so ever. Haha yea I have the same problem with the door seals too - a couple of those T-fasteners ripped the hole they go into (So I went the same route you did)

 

mrblasty, Hmm thats an idea - I'll keep that on the back burner for later. The rubbers are pretty much in excellant shape - just the window needs to press against it harder or the rubber is loosing its puffyness. :)

 

John, oh yea ok - Now I remember. I will look at those and see what I can do.

 

Thanks for all the input guys,

-Tom

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