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Kia Sephia Sporty


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#476 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 07:53 PM

Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays.

First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant.

Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission.


Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups:


First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually Thins the ATF and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and much more.

Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense, and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and much more.

Why is this very important?

Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period.

However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant.

So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those ATF additives for short term use only, in example to work as detergents prior to a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF.

Kind Regards.



#477 Legacy777

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 12:10 PM

Good info Jeszek!



#478 superu

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Posted 16 August 2014 - 10:32 PM

Whoa JesZek!!! That's some serious internal damage! Where did you get this Kia again? I am happy you were able to find parts for it locally! I wa suprised to read you could get used parts locally from a junkyard though. I understood you'd said used cars are stripped and sold overseas as such you can't get used parts in Honduras, like a used dul range subaru transmission. ;)
But, there might be the vehicle's age thing. I do know that people keep their cars running for a very long time and do about anything to keep them going. Is it that your kia is new enough you can get used parts locally. i know Erik was exporting used Aerucan cars to Honduras but they had to be relatively new, i think 5-8 years maybe. Trucks could be older but cars had to be relaively new.

At any rate, i am glad to see your expertiese has saved you here and you were able to get it back together and running well. You are a very talented man, my friend, and your skills in so many endeavors will serve you well!!

ciao


Edited by superu, 19 August 2014 - 02:55 PM.


#479 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 05:49 PM

Whoa JesZek!!! That's some serious internal damage! Where did you get this Kia again? ...

 

USA, read the very first post of this thread.

 

 

 

... I am happy you were able to find parts for it locally! ...

 

Yes, me too!

 

 

 

... I was suprised to read you could get used parts locally from a junkyard though. I understood you'd said used cars are stripped and sold overseas as such you can't get used parts in Honduras, like a used dual range subaru transmission. ;) ...

 

No, you misunderstood me or you got the idea Backwards; let me Explain the Honduran Used Cars / Honduran Junk Yards Situation:

Basically talking, Honduran Cars seems to last Forever due to the permanent warm climate and no salty roads; The Local Junk Yards
(called here: "Yonkers") brings here cars already cut in Half, from USA; there are many, many Junk Yards here, but No one is legally allowed to sell LOCAL cars on them. So if a Local car is destroyed in a car crash, is the mere owner or the insurance company that sells it for parts, but Not the local Junk Yards.


You can find a Complete Explanation with many Photos of Local Junk Yards, following this Link:

~►
http://www.ultimates...27-turbo/page-5

I Added three new Photos of a Subaru, today.

Kind Regards.



#480 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 06:06 PM

I Tried to Source a Dual Range EJ Transmission alone here, not only for you, also many other USMB Members asked me about that via Private Messages, e-Mails and even Facebook; and Despite that there are Many, Many Legacies, Imprezas, and Foresters with LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs, with Dual Range Transmissions; no one of them could end in local Junk Yards, also you must know that Honduran Cars could be fixed, and fixed, and fixed again, and again... even those rolled or involved in huge fat Crashes... there is no Legal regulation against it; so Local Cars seems to Last Forever.

The Reason why Local Junk Yards can Not sell Local cars, is to avoid the Robbery of Cars to be Sold as Parts among various junk yards; so the Local Junk Yards only sells cars with USDM, that comes from USA, and that explains the reason of the Lack of availability of Dual Range EJ Transmissions alone...

 

But Still you can Buy an Entire Legacy; I was about to buy a Factory Carbureted EJ20 Legacy with Dual Range... to see photos, again go to the Very first post of this thread.

 

 

 

... i am glad to see your expertiese has saved you here and you were able to get it back together and running well. You are a very talented man my friend and your skills in so many endeavors will serve you well!! ...

 

Thank you for your Kind Words which are Really Appreciated.

Kind Regards.



#481 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 02:33 PM

A little update on the "KiaStein" Rear Disc Brakes:

I never found in Honduras, the Original Flexible Lines for the Rear Calipers,

 
and the junk yard's ones came like this:
 
 

... they were Rusted, to the point that even I punched an ⅛" hole,

during the cleaning procedures, as you can see:


RustedendFittings.jpg

 
 
But then, I found two candidates that might work,
 
one from the Kia K2700 truck, and the Other from the Kia Rio:
 
 

 ... a Comparison Photo, taken with my Cellphone,

Kia K2700 Flex line, next to the Sephia's / Spectra's Sample I have:




Foto-1045.jpg

... the Kia Rio's one, measure exactly 2" less in Total Lenght:


KiaRioFlexLine.jpg

To chose between the Kia K2700 one and the Kia Rio One: That was my Dilemma...

 
 

I chose to use the Kia Rio's Front Flexible lines then,

 

But now, Seems like to Use them, was a Bad idea after all...



#482 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 03:06 PM

The Brakes has been working Absolutely Flawlessly, without any issue, but Recently I decided to inspect everything on the "KiaStein" and I found that the Kia Rio Flexible Lines, was rubbing against the Shock Absorber's Body, somehow... and the Rubber cover on them, was wear enough to expose the the braided nylon underneath:eek: 

 

 

DamagedKia-RioHose.jpg


 

So, I obtained the two Flexible Lines, original part for the Kia Sephia

with Rear Disc Brakes,
0K2A-24-3810C  from RockAuto.com:


ManguerasNuevas1.jpg


ManguerasNuevas2.jpg


And I installed them today:

BothTogether.jpg


Voilá! ... Problem Solved  :D
 



#483 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 03:11 PM

Several Miles and Months has passed already since I installed the Rear Disc Brakes, the increased bore Master Cylinder, and the Double Vacuum Booster on the "KiaStein" and the Brakes and Overal Braking Behavior has been working Flawlessly since then.

Previously, the Brakes were Unbalanced from Factory, the front ones had to bear with the braking effort almost alone; now the "KiaStein" stops quickly, without locking easily the Wheels, nor emitting any noise.

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 04 September 2014 - 03:12 PM.


#484 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 03:26 PM

The other day, after washing our cars,

 

I was cleansing the Mirrors on the "KiaStein" and

 

the Passenger's side mirror fell off right on my hand!  :o 

 

 

MirrorlessHousing.jpg

 

 

Mirror-Mirror.jpg

 

(here you can see my age old HP R837 Camera, with the battery cover held with a Zip tie)

 

 

Mirror-back.jpg

 

 

I put a drop of Marvel Lubricant on each plastic tab behind the Mirror,

 

Slided it in Place 'til the Tabs locked on the plastic Base,

 

and Problem: Solved:D 



#485 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 04:00 PM

Three months ago, I changed the original Kia Sephia Alternator,

 

with a Junk Yard unit from a Kia Rio:

 

... the differences between the Sephia Alternator and the Rio Alternator, are these:

Kia Sephia Alternator's part Number


AlternadorViejo.jpg



Kia Rio Alternator's part Number:

AlternadorNuevo.jpg

 

 

But recently, the Rio Alternator also gave up...

So I opened Both with the idea of use the best parts from the two, to build one:


Alternators.jpg

 
 

But that was impossible, because I found that the Sephia Alternator, was built using Hitachi Designed Components; while the Rio Alternator was built using Mando Designed Components... Long story Short:

Despite that the two alternators mount equal and work equal; they are Very Different on their inner design, use Different inner parts, Different Carbon Contacts, Different Bearings... etc, which does not interchange each other.

So, I ended fixing them Both, changed all their ball bearings, inner regulators, Carbon Contacts, and they are in good shape again; this test was done using the Kia Rio 80 Amps alternator after I fixed it; with Headlamps and A/C working:


 

TestingVoltage.jpg


I stored the Sephia one inside a plastic bag, on a shelf, just in case...

Kind Regards.



#486 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 04:14 PM

The Driver's Seat on the "KiaStein" was the worst worn part from it when we received it, seems like the previous owner always drove alone; so I decided to Take Out the Seat to fix it...

 

 

DriversSeat.jpg

 

I Found broken metal wires from the Back Support and weak Sponge; so I welded new, thicker metal wires for the Back Support, and added a thick layer of Blue Sponge, over the old one... this is the Finished Product:

 

 

DriverSeat.jpg


Now my wife will never use a Cushion to drive comfortably  :D
 

Kind Regards.



#487 Legacy777

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 08:37 PM

Jeszek,

 

I enjoy reading your posts and everything you've done with this Kia.  Keep up the good work :)



#488 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 06 September 2014 - 08:44 PM

Good info Jeszek!

 

 

Jeszek, I enjoy reading your posts and everything you've done with this Kia.  Keep up the good work :)

 

 

Thank you Josh, I really Appreciate your Kind Words.

 

Kind Regards.



#489 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 07:46 PM

10616641_757572287622135_234732944749567



#490 Carmen

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 10:45 AM

Ha , ha thats so true.    :lol: 



#491 Legacy777

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 01:38 PM

It's very true!

 

I think I'm going to steal that for facebook :)



#492 superu

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Posted 15 September 2014 - 03:37 PM

Voilá! ... Problem Solved  :D[color=#0000FF][font=Verdana] [/center]


paint the calipers blue!!! :)

#493 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 05:05 PM

paint the calipers blue!!! :)

 

I painted them in Yellow, because I had some High Temp Ceramic, caliper paint Leftovers from my Subaru "BumbleBeast", but they look dirty due to the Brake Pads Dust, they look nice if I wash them clean again.

 

Kind Regards.



#494 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 05:14 PM

Update on Master Cylinder!


 

 

Remember that the Second Gen Kia Sephia comes with a 7/8" Master Cylinder for the Front Disc / Rear Drum Brakes' Models; and comes with a 15/16" Master Cylinder for the Four Disc Brakes Models, from Factory.
 
 

Comparison.jpg

 
 
The 7/8" Master Cylinder gives a Deep Travel Brake Pedal, and I was afraid that it will go even deeper with Rear Discs instead of the old Drums; so I wanted to Change the 7/8" with the proper 15/16" one, as Kia engineers did, for the second gen Sephias with Rear Disc Brakes.

But I Never found the Proper 15/16" Master Cylinder in Honduras, and I was Short of Money, so as I Wrote in previous posts:


 

...After four months searching locally for a Master Cylinder replacement in 15/16" size with no avail, I chose to try the 1" master cylinder, with the idea that if it doesn't perform well, I could use it short time, until I could order the 15/16" version online.

But worth try the 1" master cylinder anyway, otherwise I'll live with the doubt of whether it could have worked well, or not.

 
 

... While it may not seem like much (7/8" vs. 1"), the size of the master cylinder bore directly affects braking force and pedal feel, which is why the Master Tech I spoke w/ recommended staying with the (smaller) bore size...

 
 

... if the 1" works well, it might be the Solution for the Spongy Pedal and -maybe- the Lack of sensitiveness on it.

Or, it could could be a complete Mistake to do such swap, and the Brake Pedal could end being too stiif and / or loosing Brake Power.

Seems like the only way to know if it Works or Not, and if it worth it or not; is to Try it out and do "Real Life Driving Tests" ...

 

And that was what I did: I installed the 1" master cylinder.



#495 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 05:20 PM

Don't get me Wrong...
 
As I posted before, the Brakes on the "KiaStein"
has been working Flawlessly, But After some Months Driving it with the 1" Master Cylinder, I could tell in the most Honest way I can, that the increased bore really gets Rid from the Deep Traveling / Spongy Feeling Brake Pedal, But such increased Bore provides increased Volume of Brake Fluid Moved on the lines, which is Versus the Pressure it Has. So, the more Volume moved, the less pressure it has.
 
I already posted an explanation of the situation before:


 

...
Panic Braking!
 
Sunday's early Morning I went alone to a Solitary paved Road and I accelerated the Car to almost 80 MPH, then, being completely sure that no car was following me, I Floored the Brake Pedal like Mad ... It was Really Stiff, but I Locked the Four Wheels, but not completely locked; the car stopped with four screaming tires as it Should with such Panic Braking.
 
But there is Something Wrong: it requires a Lot of Leg Strength to do that, and the Brake Pedal seemed to have still more Travel that won't go in ... you know, it was at Maximum Pressure, or the Calipers seemed to had some little more pressure left unused.
...

 
__________________________________________
 
Conclusion
 
Yes, the Sephia Needs a Bigger Master Cylinder for Sure, but ...
 
No, it don't need to be 1" ... It should work Better with 15/16"
 
So, as I'm tight on Money now; I will switch cars with my Wife until I could buy online the 15/16" Master Cylinder ...

 
 

Long story Short: The 1" Master Cylinder, gives a Tall and Solid Brake Pedal Feeling, which makes braking to feel "Amazing" on Low speeds to Medium Speeds / Average driving situations; but the total Braking Force / Clamping force at the Calipers is Reduced, which is Noticeable during Panic Braking Only.
 
With the 1" Master Cylinder, is not easy to lock the Wheels, and Panic Braking takes longer distances to Stop, plus the Pedal gets very Stiff on Deep Braking.



#496 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 05:22 PM

So, finally, I obtained the Proper 15/16" Master Cylinder online, from RockAuto.com
 

Let me Show you the Three Different Master Cylinders Together:
 
 
MasterCylindersComparison.jpg
 

7/8" was the Old one, which came with Front Disc / Rear Drum Brakes.
 

1" was the one I installed when I did the Rear Disc Brakes Swap.
 

15/16" is the Correct one, for the Four Disc Brakes' Setup.
 
This is the one I installed now.

 

B) 



#497 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 05:37 PM

Brake Lines


The only problem was, that one of the two Outlets from the 15/16" Master Cylinder, was designed for the Bubble Flare fitting, while the other Outlet, goes to a Banjo Bolt, which was designed for the common Flare Fitting.

 

 

DiferentesRoscas.jpg

 

 

As I Already changed the Brake Lines on the "KiaStein" to Flare Fittings instead of Bubble Fittings, in order to install the 1" Master cylinder...

 

 

8-SMCSwap.jpg

 

 

...I had to obtain used Brake Lines from a local Junk Yard, to change only one that goes directly to the Master Cylinder...

 

 

BrakeLineswithBubbleFlareFitting.jpg

 

 

...since Both brake lines goes from the Master Cylinder to the Distributor Block on the Firewall nearby, it was Easy to Change the one that needed to have Bubble Fitting again, I just needed the proper 11mm Wrench for Brake lines.



#498 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 05:40 PM

Then, I only needed to "Twist" a little bit, Carefully, the other Brake Line,

 

in order to let it face up to the Banjo Bolt on the Master Cylinder.  ;) 

 


DifferentSeats.jpg



#499 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 05:44 PM

The install was pretty Easy, after I changed the Flare fitting Brake Line with the Bubble fitting Brake Line, and twisted the other line that already had the Flared fitting for the Banjo Bolt adapter, it was only to Remove the Old master Cylinder, and install the New Master Cylinder.  Took me around one Hour.



#500 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 05:46 PM

I finished the Master Cylinder Swap, and then, with the Help of a friend I did four complete rounds of Brake Bleeding, each one was done in a Cross Pattern due to the Sephia's Diagonal Brake Lines Setup.

 

We started from the rear wheel which is more far from the Master Cylinder, then the Front wheel in same circuit, then the other two starting in the Rear; I did twenty deep and hard pushes on the Brake Pedal prior to open the bleeding screw on each wheel, and I bled four times each wheel on each round, so the brake system should be Super air free.  :D 






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