The Old Plug is the Red, hangin' next to the Dash, the New Plug is the one with Thicker Wires, next to the Plug's Diagram.
Jump to content
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Posted 18 April 2012 - 11:57 AM
Posted 18 April 2012 - 12:01 PM
Posted 18 April 2012 - 12:10 PM
Well... After all the Wires were Properly Welded and isolated independently each one, I proceed to Cover all the New Wiring from the New Plug's end to the Car's Wiring end and as Far as Possible, with the Best Electrical Tape I can Find.
The only wire that comes out from the New Wiring is the Ground, that already has a Welded Ring eye terminal of good quality, that one goes to a Clean Screw on a Metallic area from behind the Dashboard.
This is How I found the Wiring:
☼ = Speaker Position
Kia's Wiring Colour --- (Polarity) --- Standard Stereo Unit's Colour
☼ Rear Left Speaker:
Brown / Green ------- (+) ------- Green
Brown / Black -------- (‒) ------- Green \ Black
☼ Rear Right Speaker:
Orange / Green ------- (+) ------- Purple
Orange / Black -------- (‒) ------- Purple \ Black
☼ Front Left Speaker:
Yellow / Green ------- (+) ------- White
Yellow / Black -------- (‒) ------- White \ Black
☼ Front Right Speaker:
Yellow / Red --------- (+) ------- Grey
Yellow / Black -------- (‒) ------- Grey \ Black
This is How it ended up:
Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 December 2013 - 12:18 PM.
Posted 18 April 2012 - 03:30 PM
Posted 06 May 2012 - 03:28 AM
...Keep up the good write-ups, people sure enjoy them and gives us good ideas!
Posted 06 May 2012 - 03:32 AM
Well... this is how it looks the stereo unit already installed in its place:
Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:10 PM
I Noticed that the Main Pulley, that comes at the Bottom of the Engine,
was moving almost an inch side by side on each Turn, so I Obtained a New one...
Here you can see the Spectra's T8D Engine, inside the Sephia's Trunk, as it Came from the Junk Yard:
Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:16 PM
This is the Sephia's original T8D engine (First Gen, says K6-1) when I Just Removed it from the Car:
Compare it to the Spectra's (Second Gen, Says K6-2) T8D Engine:
And here is a Picture with Both engines and their Differences,
so you'll easy Understand how the Swap Worked:
The Port Shapes & Sizes are Different:
The Sephia'a T8D engine Ports are Oval while the Spectra's T8D Engine's Ports are Squarier and bigger,
But the intake Manifold of the Sephia Cover Perfectly the ports on the Spectra Engine: I've Just "Been There, Done That"
So I Used my Sephia's old Engine Stuff on the Spectra engine and Worked 100% Well!
Now it has more than a Whole Year Working Flawlessly.
A Closer View of How the Sephia's Manifold cover the Spectra's Engine:
Here Both engines together, the Spectra's one is Inside the Car, while the Old sephia's one is Lying on the Floor:
I had to use the Sephia's engine Valve Cover,
because the Spectra's engine came without the Oil filler Cap,
and the Older one does Not match the New one.
Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:20 PM
So, my Wife's Sephia is now the "KiaStein"
A Little Update: Do you Want to Know & see what Happened to the Removed, Old T8D engine?
I can go further and Show you:
I Dissasembled it...
...and Checked its inner parts Carefully...
...Piston by Piston...
The Welded Sprocket only took a Couple of SledgeHammer Hits to be Removed...
I Decided to Keep the Head, as it was in Good Shape...
...and Guess what I Will Do with the Rest of the Engine?
It is on its way to be transformed onto... A Glass Table! ... Like This one:
Posted 08 July 2012 - 10:17 PM
Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:07 AM
I Already Swapped a Gen 3 T8D Engine from a Kia Spectra, instead the Gen 2 T8D that came with the Sephia; Look above here, at Post Nº 84.
Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 December 2013 - 12:20 PM.
Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:29 AM
Posted 14 July 2012 - 02:43 PM
The Second Gen T8D engine that came originally on my Wife's Kia Sephia and the Third Gen T8D engine from the Kia Spectra are almost Identical engines.
The Spectra (Third Gen T8D Engine) has one Hp Less than the Sephia (Second Gen T8D Engine) Engine, but it has eleven more ft lb Torque.
But the Third Gen Engine is Built with Better Quality Materials, Better Castings and also has an improved Design.
In example: the PCV Valve on the Sephia's engine is Plastic, mounted on a Rubber O-Ring directly to the Head's Cover; while the PCV Valve on the Spectra's engine in fully Metallic, threaded and directly screwed to the Head's cover, as you can see in previous posts of this thread; also the Screws that holds the Oil pan are Nº 6 on the Sephia's engine, and Nº 8 on the Spectra's engine; etc...
Funny Fact: Yamaha has a "T8D" engine designation, designed for outboard small ships.
The Main Advantage gained with the Swap is to have a Very Low Mileage, better Built engine which doesn't leak or drink a single drop of oil nor coolant, plus it doesn't blow any noticeable smoke, unlike the huge cloud of smoke of the previous one, due to its internals' damage; as shown in the pictures on the previous posts.
Driving Differences: Almost unnoticeable difference, because both engines are smooth, easy revving engines!
But now the Car Holds the Gear a Little Better on Low Speeds and it has way more than enough power to Pass, even on a Steep Hill Climbs and very Loaded... almost unbelievable Performance for a 1.8L engine ... see the Wikipedia info Below.
You might ask: Which was the First Gen T8D engine and in which model did it came?
When Kia Purchased the Lotus Elan Design License, They Built the Kia Elan and they Developed the T8D Engine for it, as a Huge Upgrade over the Isuzu 1.6L Engine that Lotus used on the Elan; so the Kia Elan was the Model that came with the First Gen T8D engine; as Follows:
► First Gen T8D engine = Kia Elan. (1995 ~ 1998)
► Second Gen T8D engine = Kia Sephia (Second Gen Model) and Kia Clarus. (1998 ~ 2001)
► Third Gen T8D engine = Kia Spectra (First Gen Model: 2001 ~ 2003)
More info on Wikipedia: ~►Here.
Please, note the Engine used on the Kia Elan...
...is the Same T8D which is a DOHC 16 Valves Non-interference engine.
So my Wife's Kia Sephia still runs on a T8D engine, but the Third Gen of it from the Kia Spectra, which is improved; and that is the Reason why it was Renamed as the "KiaStein"
Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 December 2013 - 12:39 PM.
mispelled word, fixed.
Posted 14 July 2012 - 07:34 PM
Posted 16 July 2012 - 09:13 PM
...WOW! I am very shocked that Kia took over the Elan name from lotus, amazing...
Remember that Ford has agreements with Mazda and the Kia Company usually remake Mazda Products ... so Being based on a Mix of the Ford Scort / Mazda Protegè and the Lotus Elan, the Kia Sephia / Spectra is somehow a great car for its little value... I Know it has thin sheetmetal and could easily have dents... but is a Highly underestimated car for its real being.
...How many speed transmission does the sephia have? 4 with some type of overdrive?...
Yes! ... it is Automatic, it has the 4EAT transmission: Four Speeds plus Overdrive.
Did you Know that the 4EAT that first appeared on the Subaru EA82 GL10 is not a real "Subaru" Transmission? ... it also appeared on the Nissan Pathfinder from the Same era... by that time Subaru and Nissan were somehow Partners... But the 4EAT isn't a Nissan transmission either.
The 4EAT is Designed and Patented by JATCO (Japan Automatic Transmissions Company) and they changed some specs as each car maker asked.
Want more Info & Technical data?
- For Subaru 4EAT, click ~► http://www.northursa...ission/4eat.pdf
- About JATCO: ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jatco
- More info on Wikipedia:
Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 07 December 2013 - 12:37 PM.
Posted 16 July 2012 - 09:55 PM
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:02 PM
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:06 PM
Avoiding Electrical False Contacts.
If you look behind the Radiator, at the driver's side, next to the Batterie's Base, you will see the two main electrical plugs with the Transmission's Wiring. One of those is Wide and is above the other, this one is wider and is for the Shifter / Gear Selector.
The smaller one, which is Squared and located in a placement under the other, is the one that could be the Culprit of the Transmission's issues, because it is the Link from the internals with the Computer, for processing the Speeds, Signals, etc... I marked it on the following Photo, as the "Seven Wire Plug" see:
In Short Words: If this Plug develops an Electrical False Contact, will cause to the Automatic Transmission to Shift Erratically / Stay in Neutral 'till you press the Gas Pedal, and display a Blinking O/D Light + Check Engine Light in the instrument Cluster.
"Electrical False Contact" = Means when a Fuse or Bridge wire is proven to be good / alright (Passing current from one of its sides to the other) but its ends / terminals are loose and \ or have enough corrosion to don't let the current to flow as it should, flowing intermittently or not flowing at all.
Usually this Plug gets Loose, Dirty and / or Breaks, which lets it develop such Electrical False Contacts... So, I carefully removed that Plug for inspection and did a complete Cleansing to both ends. I used Electrical Contact Cleaner in a Spray Can and a clean Soft Brush.
► Cautions! ... If you want to service the Electrical Parts on the Automatic Transmission, this ideas could be helpful:
♪ That plug has a Plastic Tab that usually Breaks easy, and it needs to be Lifted, to let you pull that Plug, so lift it slowly 'till you can remove that Plug.
♫ Wait 'till the Engine is completely Cool prior to place your hand there, it get extremely Hot and could be Dangerous.
♪♫ Don't Forget to Disconnect the Battery, prior to start these Procedures.
Disclaimer: Use all the ideas / information \ photos I post, at Your Own Risk.
Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 22 July 2014 - 03:53 PM.
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:08 PM
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:09 PM
The Followin' Picture shows you the Metal Chunks that came of the Flushed 4EAT along more dirt, gum, barnish and mud:
Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 16 July 2012 - 10:13 PM.
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:15 PM
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:16 PM
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:29 PM
OH MY! Those are some large chunks. That will sure clog a valve body, very happy you cleaned out the Transmission more indepth
... I want to drop the Transmission pan on the Loyale and clean it out really well soon, perhaps even run SeaFoam Trans-Tune thru it. ...
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:35 PM
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users