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Hub vs. Bearing replace, 1997 Outback
Posted 05 November 2009 - 10:14 AM
Would the hub be less work? Would this include all the seals and bearings/parts i would need? Any thoughts on Timken's quality?
Posted 05 November 2009 - 10:29 AM
Posted 05 November 2009 - 10:53 AM
Second be careful by "hub" many folks incorrectly (myself included) mean the entire hub assembly - also the knuckle. But in reality the hub is just that part pressed into the knuckle, as shown on the ebay pic.
When i ask a yard I ask for the hub and always get the knuckle unless i specifically ask them to remove the hub (only done that once). Otherwise they know what I'm after. If i'm ordering online or a store, then you'll want to make the distinction and use proper terminology. So pardon our incorrect usage on forums like this.
Subaru bearings are tough to get right and often have repeat failures unless done exactly right - Subaru even makes a special tool for the process, which doesn't make it a ton easier but helps and can be done on the car.
I replace them with used hub assemblies - the entire knuckle.
That ebay "hub" is just the hub, still needs pressed out and back in with the bearings into the rear knuckle.
Simpler to buy a used entire knuckle. Nice to get one in person so you can tell if it's rusted to crap, the axle seal looks good and what they did with the abs sensor - cut the wire, if they got it out, left the abs sensor wire intact, etc.
Make sure you get what you need - if you have ABS you need an ABS knuckle.
Posted 05 November 2009 - 11:48 AM
Posted 05 November 2009 - 04:15 PM
Posted 05 November 2009 - 07:01 PM
john is referring to the rear hub, though you never really mention front or rear did you?
in any event the rears are much more difficult than the fronts, particularly if they're rusted at all. SOAK that lateral bolt in lots of high quality penetrant (WD40 does not count).
fronts are easy - just have a pickle fork for the ball joint and you'll probably have to replace it unless yo'ure lucky - grease the pickle fork realy good if you want to try and save it. removing the ball joint without a pickle fork can be a bear.
Posted 05 November 2009 - 09:12 PM
Posted 05 November 2009 - 09:26 PM
Then torch the housing around the bolt just before hitting it with air tools if you got them.
they are notorious for shearing off, which becomes evident once you see how they're constructed.
Posted 05 November 2009 - 09:53 PM
Posted 06 November 2009 - 10:15 AM
I buy the rear knuckle/hub with the lower rear arms still attached at the U-pulls to avoid having to deal with the long bolt. See if your yard will sell it like that. Won't be much more and saves tons of work.
That's how I do it.
I think I get them delivered for 100 bucks or just over that. I don't even bother pulling them from cars I'm going to scrap since that makes them unable to get off the lift and onto the trailer to scrap. For 100 bucks for me it's money well spent.
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