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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Hub vs. Bearing replace, 1997 Outback


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9 replies to this topic

#1 outbackusjunkus

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 10:14 AM

I've never done rear bearings on one of these...but Rockauto shows individual bearings and seals, or a complete hub by Timken (shown here on e-bay) http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item2556e2222f
Would the hub be less work? Would this include all the seals and bearings/parts i would need? Any thoughts on Timken's quality?

#2 lmdew

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 10:29 AM

Complete hub is much easier and quicker. You should be able to find a good used one at a yard for under $50.

#3 grossgary

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 10:53 AM

First - be careful with hubs, there are FWD hubs and that looks like it is one..or might be. Subaru offered FWD vehicles up to 96 (though rare by then), so parts places could be off by a year or so.

Second be careful by "hub" many folks incorrectly (myself included) mean the entire hub assembly - also the knuckle. But in reality the hub is just that part pressed into the knuckle, as shown on the ebay pic.

When i ask a yard I ask for the hub and always get the knuckle unless i specifically ask them to remove the hub (only done that once). Otherwise they know what I'm after. If i'm ordering online or a store, then you'll want to make the distinction and use proper terminology. So pardon our incorrect usage on forums like this.

Subaru bearings are tough to get right and often have repeat failures unless done exactly right - Subaru even makes a special tool for the process, which doesn't make it a ton easier but helps and can be done on the car.

I replace them with used hub assemblies - the entire knuckle.

That ebay "hub" is just the hub, still needs pressed out and back in with the bearings into the rear knuckle.

Simpler to buy a used entire knuckle. Nice to get one in person so you can tell if it's rusted to crap, the axle seal looks good and what they did with the abs sensor - cut the wire, if they got it out, left the abs sensor wire intact, etc.

Make sure you get what you need - if you have ABS you need an ABS knuckle.

#4 outbackusjunkus

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 11:48 AM

Good catch, it is an front wheel drive hub. I checked locally and used hubs are only $35 bucks, this really does sound like the way to go. Replacing them sounds like a total nightmare...

#5 john in KY

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 04:15 PM

You are still in for a lot of grief. That long bolt that has to be removed will be next to impossible to remove without air tools and after soaking it with a high quality penetrating oil for several days. Break the ABS sensor and there goes another $160. Been told the final torque on that long bolt when you go to reinstall it is critical for bearing life. Too much and the bearing will fail. Don't quote me but thinking the correct torque is 90 lbs. Went through this nut roll myself earlier this year and it was a nightmare.

#6 grossgary

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 07:01 PM

if you can have them disconnect the ABS sensor in the "new" hub so you can just plug it in and not have to worry about removing your old one.

john is referring to the rear hub, though you never really mention front or rear did you?

in any event the rears are much more difficult than the fronts, particularly if they're rusted at all. SOAK that lateral bolt in lots of high quality penetrant (WD40 does not count).

fronts are easy - just have a pickle fork for the ball joint and you'll probably have to replace it unless yo'ure lucky - grease the pickle fork realy good if you want to try and save it. removing the ball joint without a pickle fork can be a bear.

#7 outbackusjunkus

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 09:12 PM

It is the back bearing, and its rusty back there. gonna be good times for sure...

#8 grossgary

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 09:26 PM

hit it every day or other day for a week or two really good with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Yield is even better if you can get it.

Then torch the housing around the bolt just before hitting it with air tools if you got them.

they are notorious for shearing off, which becomes evident once you see how they're constructed.

#9 subaru360

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Posted 05 November 2009 - 09:53 PM

I buy the rear knuckle/hub with the lower rear arms still attached at the U-pulls to avoid having to deal with the long bolt. See if your yard will sell it like that. Won't be much more and saves tons of work.

#10 davebugs

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Posted 06 November 2009 - 10:15 AM

I buy the rear knuckle/hub with the lower rear arms still attached at the U-pulls to avoid having to deal with the long bolt. See if your yard will sell it like that. Won't be much more and saves tons of work.



That's how I do it.

I think I get them delivered for 100 bucks or just over that. I don't even bother pulling them from cars I'm going to scrap since that makes them unable to get off the lift and onto the trailer to scrap. For 100 bucks for me it's money well spent.




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