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long travel subaru?


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Ive played around with long travel struff before.Ive found that for the rear if you extended the track width by about 3 inches, you could have a full 11" of travel on stock CVs in the the rear.Course the axle itself would need to be extended or a slip yoke of some kind welded in. Then you could use 930 CV's for the front.If I recall I designed it to be set up for a 4" suspension lift with wider track.

 

Don't quote me on that though,I drew it up some time ago in a cad program,but I have sense lost the file to be exact on the numbers.It may have been 3" per side though...

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Now that I think about a chain drive hub setup wouldnt be too hard to redneck fab up.If you took the splined part of a subaru hub and welded/bolted it to a small sprocket.Then you could weld a large sproket to a outer CV stub.use a chain to connect the two. Then mount the whole thing to your hub in some way. After that you just space down the hub the length you made the reduction unit. Then you just slip your existing axle into the splined top part of the gear reduction unit.

 

there ya go, more clearance and better gearing!

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  • 4 years later...

This thread seems to have snuck under my radar.

This is one of those things that I have had on my mind for nearly a decade now.  It most likely won't go a way for a long while either.  Every generation of my Brat is just one small step closer to an ultimate goal, but it does take a bit of "infrastructure" to get going.  I have spent many years compiling tools, and equipment to built what I have in my imagination.  

This is what I've had in mind;

11111994274_b43f41d2e8_z.jpg

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i am doing a 1995 impreza with 18 inch of travel. And my buddy just finished his 97 

 

the front of the one buggy I see long travel shocks.....but the rear end in the first picture????

 

No way that you've got 18" of travel at the back of that thing.  Those are stock rear struts maybe 6~8 inches travel.......maybe.

 

 

This setup is almost 13" of travel.....and I had to add a 6 inch lift, and cut out extension towers in the rear wheel wells to mount the shocks.  they stick into the body about 3"  and are maxed out under drop and compression utilizing the entire range of travel.

 

Full drop

IMG_3712_zps154e3e20.jpg

Full Compression

IMG_3709_zps15048a0b.jpg

Edited by Gloyale
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I don't see it as any different than the Jeep guys swapping in Ford axles under their rigs. You take the vehicle you like, and make it more suited to your needs, with the appropriate parts. If that happens to be a SA from a Ford or Toyota, so be it. I think it says something about Subaru's interior though, if someone is willing to put the rest of that under a Subaru, instead of a Heep.

 

I agree :headbang: 

 

I love Subaru's, and sure, the independent suspension is neat and cool, but its just not that strong. I'm not saying that it isn't strong for what it is..a Japanese grocery-getter you can put 31's on..but its not strong enough effectively for 33's, or going up a lot of the trails we go down. The axles are always the weak point in our suspension, they have a fairly limited range they can operate at before they explode and they are prone to breaking when you are running bigger tires and all bound up. Doing what works saves time, money and you have a lot more fun, especially when you aren't confined by CV axles that can only offer a fraction of the travel a solid axle can, and only handle the torque of 31's at best.

 

Given enough time, if a rig survives long enough, it will hardly resemble it original self. The weak points are upgraded and the fluffy, cushy spoob is bashed in or cut off, this includes suspension and power train parts. Its true for any make that sees trail time.

 

Josh

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