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Brat ignition problem
Posted 15 November 2009 - 05:03 PM
I have a 1987 Subaru Brat (European version) with an EA81 engine, caruburettor, breakerless ignition system with the ignitionmodule inside the dist.
One day I strted my car as usually, got about 50 m when it suddenly stopped. It was just like somebody had turned a switch.
I stood still for about 30 minutes, without any kind of lifesign from it. Then suddenly it strted again. I got about 500 m, when it just stopped again. After that it hasn't started again.
There is no spark, and no signal from the ignition coil.
I have replaced the; distributorcap, and rotor. I have also tried with another ignition coil and cable between the ignition coil and the distributor.
I suspect that it could be the ignitionmodule, but I haven't found any way to test it. According to my Haynes manual the resistance can't be chekked on my type of system.
I also have another weird problem, at least I think it is a problem.
When I remove the fuse for the fuelpump and turn on the ignition, the pump starts, but with the fuse in place, the isn't a sound from the pump.
Does anybody have an idea of how I can fix it, could the fuel and ignition problem be related?
I am very grateful for any tip.
Posted 15 November 2009 - 08:13 PM
Posted 26 November 2009 - 04:58 PM
About my fuelproblem.
Does anybody know how the fuelpump control unit work. Believe it is a relay of somekind that says cleaner cont on it.
When I wire the fuelpump directly from the fuse to the pump it runs continuously, but with the correct wires connected it only runs for a short time when the fuse is removed.
Electrical stuff is not my cup of tea so, any tip is welcome.
If anybody has subarus original workshopmanual, i'd be gratefull if you could e-mail it to me.
Posted 27 November 2009 - 11:14 AM
Your ignition module is likely fried.They are sometimes sensitive to high resistance in the ignition secondary circuit.Check for a bad plug/coil wire and extra wide spark plug gaps before replacing it.
The modules are a little difficult to test.
If you have a known good one,you can compare readings between terminals using the "diode test" function of a digital multimeter.
Easier test is on the car.
As long as you have 12 volts at coil - w/key on,wiring is intact,and a test light that does NOT flash when connected to coil - while cranking,the module is bad.
Take the disty cap off and check for play in the shaft too.
Service manual http://www.finleyweb...54/Default.aspx
Edited by naru, 27 November 2009 - 11:37 AM.
Posted 27 November 2009 - 12:28 PM
Posted 20 January 2010 - 03:14 PM
Thank you for the tips.
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