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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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camber, angle blocks, and revelations


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4 replies to this topic

#1 Markus56

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 05:29 PM

I have been thinking, when you are doing a complete lift, cross members, struts, the works, do you still need to build the front strut blocks with an angle?

if everything is going to be the same after you drop it, then you wouldn't need the top of the strut to be pushed in... correct?

or was i just being unobservant and the top struts were already straight...

or am i just plain wrong?

#2 frogstar7055

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 05:58 PM

Dropping the whole drive train you still have to put some offset in.

#3 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 07:14 PM

You have to make the blocks with the 12 degree angle that the stock strut towers have. If you dont cut the blocks with that 12 degree angle, you will get massive F'd up camber, worse than you already have. If you make the blocks straight-cut, when you install them they will sit like this looking from the front of the car

/ \

which will push the top of the wheels out and make your camber look just like this

\ ______ /

12 degrees is the factory angle, if you cut them a little more (say 15 degrees) you can get some negative camber, which will make the car handle better in turns.

-Bill

#4 Markus56

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 12:48 AM

ok, so its the strut top towers that make things not easy.

Thanks for the clarification :)

#5 ivantruckman

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 09:40 AM

i found that it easier to lift the body 1.5 inches less than the suspention on the front. ie 4 inch strut tower lift with a 2.5 inch cross member lift,

the rear would be , 4 inch shock bracket and a 2 inch body lift .

you can over flex the front by 1.5 inches and the rear bu 2 to 3 1/2 inches

I would not want to lower the engine any more than nessasary or the rear diff any more than nessasary




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