Jump to content

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse

- - - - -

camber, angle blocks, and revelations

  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 Markus56


    Whup tee do

  • Members
  • 794 posts
  • Wolf Point, Montana

Posted 18 November 2009 - 05:29 PM

I have been thinking, when you are doing a complete lift, cross members, struts, the works, do you still need to build the front strut blocks with an angle?

if everything is going to be the same after you drop it, then you wouldn't need the top of the strut to be pushed in... correct?

or was i just being unobservant and the top struts were already straight...

or am i just plain wrong?

#2 frogstar7055


    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 159 posts
  • Jacksonville Fl

Posted 18 November 2009 - 05:58 PM

Dropping the whole drive train you still have to put some offset in.

#3 The Beast I Drive

The Beast I Drive

    CALL ME, (509) 391-5903

  • Members
  • 2,120 posts
  • Toppenish, WA

Posted 18 November 2009 - 07:14 PM

You have to make the blocks with the 12 degree angle that the stock strut towers have. If you dont cut the blocks with that 12 degree angle, you will get massive F'd up camber, worse than you already have. If you make the blocks straight-cut, when you install them they will sit like this looking from the front of the car

/ \

which will push the top of the wheels out and make your camber look just like this

\ ______ /

12 degrees is the factory angle, if you cut them a little more (say 15 degrees) you can get some negative camber, which will make the car handle better in turns.


#4 Markus56


    Whup tee do

  • Members
  • 794 posts
  • Wolf Point, Montana

Posted 19 November 2009 - 12:48 AM

ok, so its the strut top towers that make things not easy.

Thanks for the clarification :)

#5 ivantruckman


    4 inch lift

  • Members
  • 956 posts
  • caro, MI.

Posted 19 November 2009 - 09:40 AM

i found that it easier to lift the body 1.5 inches less than the suspention on the front. ie 4 inch strut tower lift with a 2.5 inch cross member lift,

the rear would be , 4 inch shock bracket and a 2 inch body lift .

you can over flex the front by 1.5 inches and the rear bu 2 to 3 1/2 inches

I would not want to lower the engine any more than nessasary or the rear diff any more than nessasary

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users