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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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A little Wheelin' in my area


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18 replies to this topic

#1 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 10:15 PM

Went out playin around at a little spot (40-50 acres or so) out East of Sunnyside with a couple buddies, its a neat place, not real huge, but its pretty challenging in places cuz some guys with a 12" lifted F-250 on 44's and a couple Jeep guys with huge tires tear it up pretty good. Its all sand, wet sand, and trees, so nothing is as easy as it looks :banana: Had a pretty good time, but my buddy with the shortbed Chevy got stuck good for a bout a half hour - 45 minutes or so, then I broke a diff stub trying to go around a rock pile. I will say though, my first time with a welded diff and Im never going back to anything else. Luckily it rained last night so I didnt have to ari down in the sand either

Some shots of one of the short trails. You cant see it real well, but there are some ruts that are about 3 feet deep in the first and second pics, and remember, its all sand, not mud and dirt ;)
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There is a LOT more, but we didnt really play in the other parts cuz we ran out of time and I ran out of space on my camera (128mb card, but I bought a 8G card immediately after this)
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At this point, he was REALLY stuck
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I was just chillin up ahead waitin for him
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I spent a lot of time Hecklin' and givin him a hard time about being stuck where the Subaru made it through (they always give me a hard time for driving a Subaru) But I got what I deserved in the end

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Snapped my Pass. side diff stub right there. Pretty much killed my day, cuz I couldnt get the sheared splined part out of the diff till I got home. It was still pretty fun while it lasted, hopefully next time Ill get more pics and some videos :banana:

-Bill

#2 one eye

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 12:06 AM

Looks fun Bill, I havn't even got in my Wheeler Wagon since we all went to up to Walker..................... I might need to go wheeling soon....... :grin:

Jeff

#3 TheLoyale

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 01:01 AM

How did you shear another stub? Must have been hopping it alot? or just to much torque with a stuck wheel?

-Tom

#4 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 01:20 AM

How did you shear another stub? Must have been hopping it alot? or just to much torque with a stuck wheel?

-Tom


I welded up my rear diff, so I have direct power to each side. Well, I got them spinnin good, and when the passenger side hit the rock it snapped, a lot like at Walker when I snapped on at the gate.

Jeff, you should bring your wheeler over when you come get Butters, Wheel it once out here :brow: I might have a buyer for it when you decide to retire it too ;)

-Bill

#5 TheLoyale

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 01:28 AM

Thats kinda what I figured, that does put a crimper on the day. I still can't figure how you can change a stub right on the trail at Walker - I mean, you have to drain the diff, remove the cover, remove the DOJ off the stub and whatever else all in mud and rain... I suppose I would do it too if I had to (Just looked like a mess at Walker lol) Or am I wrong on how the stub comes out?

No need to get real technical if you don't want to, just seems like it'd be a bugger :)

#6 SoobieDoo

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 07:55 AM

Nice place you found there! It's always nice to have some place to wheel close to home...for Jeff it's walker. :mad:
Is that public or private?
Too bad that diff stub limited your fun. Maybe a pipe ez-out would work, if we're lucky enough to find the right size?

#7 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 08:10 AM

. Maybe a pipe ez-out would work, if we're lucky enough to find the right size?


thats it I made one out of a long bolt and ground down the sides to a tapered square

#8 VaporTrail

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 09:04 AM

Thats kinda what I figured, that does put a crimper on the day. I still can't figure how you can change a stub right on the trail at Walker - I mean, you have to drain the diff, remove the cover, remove the DOJ off the stub and whatever else all in mud and rain... I suppose I would do it too if I had to (Just looked like a mess at Walker lol) Or am I wrong on how the stub comes out?

No need to get real technical if you don't want to, just seems like it'd be a bugger :)


to change the diff stub, you just need to pull off the DOJ, remove the stub bolt and stub, then insert a different stub, and reassemble... no need to remove rear cover and drain....

#9 VaporTrail

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 09:06 AM

... I will say though, my first time with a welded diff and Im never going back to anything else...

-Bill


+1 :banana:

#10 bigo1966

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 09:14 AM

So would you say a welded diff is worth breaking a axle for the added traction. Im still torn as to what I want to do with the sedamn. I have a welded diff sitting in the garage but not sure if i want to swap it. If swapping it means im going to break a 100 dollar axle everytime I wheel that would get old i would think. Yup still torn. I also have to factor in the terrain. There is not a lot of mud out here mainly rocks. Well maybe ill just have to swap it and see.

#11 TheLoyale

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 10:09 AM

to change the diff stub, you just need to pull off the DOJ, remove the stub bolt and stub, then insert a different stub, and reassemble... no need to remove rear cover and drain....


Oh ok, well thats not nearly as bad (Unless it doesn't budge)

All you WA guys have nice little places close to home for messing around (WI has 0) they are all 6 or more hours up north :(

-Tom :)

#12 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 10:09 AM

So would you say a welded diff is worth breaking a axle for the added traction. Im still torn as to what I want to do with the sedamn. I have a welded diff sitting in the garage but not sure if i want to swap it. If swapping it means im going to break a 100 dollar axle everytime I wheel that would get old i would think. Yup still torn. I also have to factor in the terrain. There is not a lot of mud out here mainly rocks. Well maybe ill just have to swap it and see.


Welding the diff is 100% worth it, trust me.

Breaking axles is not a problem, I have yet to break a rear axle. What happnes is the stub shaft on the diff will shear (being hollow and all :rolleyes:) and that saves your axle and your diff. It seriously takes about 5 minutes to change one out if you have a good jack and the right tools, usually the sheared end will slide right out.

As for removing the stubborn stub, I found a pair of punches at home that I can drive into the hollow inside of the sub and they get wedged pretty good, then I just grab them and pull it out. Im keeping them in my tools from now on.

The thing that breaks stubs is wheel spin. I learned that at Walker, if you get the wheels spinning and it catches traction all of a sudden, snap.

Im considering making some late-model Legacy/EA82 hybrid axles, basically EA82 axles with late model innie-style stubs, because they are solid and *should* hold up a bit better, but that would mean something else would have to be the fuseible link. I guess I could just put shear bolts in at the pinion flange, cheaper and easier to replace than any other part of the driveshaft :banana:

-Bill

#13 VaporTrail

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 10:18 AM

yes, the difference is amazing with welded...
I think te ea81's re more prone to axle breaking because of the track width, and increased angls...

while welded, I broke a stub shaft once, while doing a hill climb,and the rear end started bouncing...

another time though on a different hill climb, I started spinning, and it bounced and broke the inner cup on both sides!
after getting bac to cam, I rebuilt one good axle from the 2 broken one, and had a spare, and didn't have any more problems the rest o the weekend....

after I went to longer DOJ cups on both ends, I never had anther problem... but I also had ea82 coilvers in the back of my brat, and a diff drop in place... so I sacraficeda bit of grund clearance for axle strength... still totally worth it....

#14 TheLoyale

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 10:21 AM

I'm supprized you havn't found a way to make your own stubs out of a better more durible metel, since the OE stubs are made of a Alloy/Steel mix. Maybe go with a heavier grade of steel, also, do they need to be hollow? if not that would solve the problem right there!

Also, how many teeth are your stubs - 23 or 25t?

-Tom

#15 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 11:03 AM

ive broke stubs and axles on the rear if the stubs are strong a axle will break, key is driving technique , know your limits and work within them,

#16 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 02:33 PM

ive broke stubs and axles on the rear if the stubs are strong a axle will break, key is driving technique , know your limits and work within them,


^ this x1000. I just need to learn to get off the gas :grin:

The rear stubs are hollow because a bolt goes through them to secure them into the diff. Legacy's have solid ones because they are held in with circlips, and would most definitely be harder to change on the trail if I broke one.

EA82's arent near as bad ablout splitting DOJ cups in the rear as the EA81's, I read somewhere its partially because the EA81 cups are cast, whereas the EA82 and up ones are forged. The axle length is a factor too, as the EA82 axles are quite a bit longer and can move a lot more at the trailing arm than the EA81 ones, without contacting the DOJ cup, hence breaking it.

My problem right now is that I spin the wheels, and when they catch, something's gotta give. Id rather it be the stubs than the axles, so I think I'll just keep a full collection of stubs going until I think of something (or get setup with lower gears and more low-end power)

-Bill

#17 TheLoyale

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 04:46 PM

ive broke stubs and axles on the rear if the stubs are strong a axle will break, key is driving technique , know your limits and work within them,


Thats very true, know the vehicles limits and your own.

Bill, aha theres a bolt. Now I understand it.

-Tom

#18 monstaru

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 11:40 PM

"The thing that breaks stubs is wheel spin.".... this is why i think the system would do great at super slow speeds .wheel hop is inevitable when you have to go fast to accomplish your goals on the trail....it is THE killer.

as your lawyer, i highly recommend you t-case that rig,and immediately go bigger.....you should purchase my diffs,give me money for all of the stuff i have in the garage downstairs,and in the side yard..........
then go home and build until you puke......then puke again.................
...:lol:cheers

#19 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 11:51 PM

"The thing that breaks stubs is wheel spin.".... this is why i think the system would do great at super slow speeds .wheel hop is inevitable when you have to go fast to accomplish your goals on the trail....it is THE killer.

as your lawyer, i highly recommend you t-case that rig,and immediately go bigger.....you should purchase my diffs,give me money for all of the stuff i have in the garage downstairs,and in the side yard..........
then go home and build until you puke......then puke again.................
...:lol:cheers


Lol. The Beast refuses to take T-case implants, its not part of it's contract :lol:

Besides, thats what the Brat is gonna get built for :brow:

-Bill




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