robm Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 Does any one know if Edrachs's excellent treatise on replacing axles on his '81 would apply to my '93 Loyale? http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+replacement The axles are cheap enough - C$80 for a rebuilt one from Canadian Tire, and they have it in stock, for a change! (It takes 10 days for parts to come from Toronto!) Anyone tried CT's rebuilt axles? Any other good threads in the archives for doing this job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 procedure is the same, although the loyale has longer axles, bigger knuckle, its built the same. the only thing different is the swaybar read this, as it may help performing ed's procedure http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/lowercontrol.htm for the brake caliper and rotor removal http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/frontdisc.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted February 9, 2004 Author Share Posted February 9, 2004 I got the axle in just fine. Ed's system works nicely. It only took one half-hearted blow with a 6 lb maul to start the axle, after that, a 12 oz ball peen did the trick. A couple of points: Remember to rotate the axle stub 180 degrees after knocking out the roll pin, to accept the new pin. A piece of softwood, 1"x1" x 6" makes a good drift to push the axle into the bearings. Put one end on the back fo the CV joint, and apply the 12 oz hammer to the other. This is good for getting it past the spots where not enough thread is showing to put the nut on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted February 9, 2004 Author Share Posted February 9, 2004 More ideas: It helps to unboltl the link on the sway bar. Also the hand brake cable. All in all, it was a farily pleasant experience, especially as I was doing it with a slight hangover, and did't really feel like having to deal with any major frustration. Took 4.5 hours, not bad considering this is the first major wrenching project I have undertaken on this car. Reminded me of working on my old Datsun 510's, lots of parts to take off first, before gettingto teh meat of teh project, but they all come off easily, and go back on quickly. Not like the Toyota, where everything is hidden, andyou spend half of your time working on fasterenre you can't even see! THe inner joint on the Subarus come out nicely, much better than the Toyotas, the Toyoto is a lot easier on the outer joint. The overly-cautious Haynes manual says to get the suspension aligned after this operation. Is there any reason to do this? I don't think there is any adjustment on the inner bolt of the suspension arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmCeeBee Posted February 9, 2004 Share Posted February 9, 2004 Re: alignment. Well, of course it can't hurt.... But I've replaced axles twice and I haven't had my wagon aligned since (thanks for reminding me ) It's been more than 30k miles, and steering is still rock solid - dead on straight, with no tire wear. I agree, it didn't seem anything in the job, if done carefully, would affect alignment. -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted February 9, 2004 Share Posted February 9, 2004 dont unscrew your the nut on the tie rod, and only take the bottom of the strut out of the spindle and the alignment will be fine. I've changed 3 sets on my soob and a set of tie rods and my alignment stayed the same, if not gotten better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 9, 2004 Share Posted February 9, 2004 once you get experienced with the axle procedure, you will be able to do one by removing only the ball joint, tierod, and caliper. the axle will come out with the rotor in place(park brake set) but i recommend removing the rotor to install(tap on the knuckle to start axle. once you get familiar, the procedure for one axle can be narrowed down to around 20 minutes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 Tie-rod and caliper? I only pop the balljoint out of the knuckle. That's the only thing I do to give myself room to pull the axle out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 i like to pop the tie rod out as it gives me more room to move things, and slip a 2x4 in there to push the control arm down. i left the brakes on when i pulled the axle, but i like to remove the caliper(line and park-cable still connected) and bracket to tap the knuckle with a hammer to start the axle. but you can leave it on if the parking brake has been engaged the whole time, and you dont booger the splines in the hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 yup. I do it the same way miles.. its easier and faster that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viceversa Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 how do you know the axles are worn out? I have 191K on mine but apparently nothing wrong with them. I do have spare axles from a 4WD loyale (Mine is 2wd) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 CV joints (outers) will start to click under hard lock when turning. Inner (DOJ) will cause vibration while accelerating which goes away when decelerating (sometimes so severe, you'd think the transmission is about to fall out). However, as long as the boots aren't torn, you're unlikely to see either symptom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted February 10, 2004 Author Share Posted February 10, 2004 I didn't bother touching the ball joint, I just pulled the bolt that secures the inboard end of the suspension arm, like Ed suggests. Of course, that means I have to pull the sway bar lng, too. But these come our pretty quick, and it doesn't look like there is any way to adjust anythng on these parts, so they have to go back the same way - I hope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 my technique involves no special tools i jack up the car by the stud of the ball joint enough to load the suspension, then i pop out the tie rod with a hammer(nut reverses, flush with stud) to turn the strut enough to whack the lower control arm with a hammer, to pop the ball joint. then i will use a 2x4 or long bar to push the control arm down, then pull the strut away, to remove the axle from the tranny end(pin already out) from there the axle will float around enough to pop it out from the front fairly easy this way, and you can stick to the procedure without a ball joint separator or special tools. its less work that way in my opinion, and more room to work with anyway, glad you got yours fixed, it worked for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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