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Blowing up coils
Posted 23 December 2009 - 12:36 PM
I'm almost at a loss here, I tried 3 different distys but I have no Idea, everthing reads right on the voltage and everthing. I just dont know........
any help would be good
Posted 23 December 2009 - 01:25 PM
If not, it may need one.
Posted 23 December 2009 - 01:33 PM
Check plug gaps,plug/coil wire resistance,disty rotor cap clearance etc.
You may want to try a different capacitor too.
Conversly,if your ignition system has the external type ignition module,a ballast resistor is required.A missing one would blow coils.
Are they hot after they blow?
Even a lean mixture will make the voltage higher than normal.
Edited by naru, 23 December 2009 - 02:35 PM.
Posted 23 December 2009 - 06:35 PM
Posted 24 December 2009 - 01:28 AM
Check yer grounds?
I second that, somethings grounding out somewhere.
Interesting, I wanna know the answer.
Good luck Jeff.
Posted 24 December 2009 - 06:51 PM
Posted 24 December 2009 - 08:44 PM
Posted 26 December 2009 - 01:01 AM
Posted 26 December 2009 - 10:49 AM
Posted 26 December 2009 - 12:58 PM
Posted 26 December 2009 - 02:02 PM
Subaru's do not use ballast resistors. They are designed to work at full VR output and still fire well enough to start the engine on battery voltage.
Another typicaly oversweeping incorrect assertion.
Some at least,do indeed have ballast resistors.
Not sure about 82s but he says he has one and Chiltons shows one.
Some slightly older models definetly have one.
Posted 26 December 2009 - 07:48 PM
That being said .... To start a car when the engine is cold most cars need more voltage at the coil than when a car is already running. Many cars 1950's and older used 6 volt starting systems and generators not alternators. Compression was low like 6 to 1 or less and the number of cylinders was 4 or 6. Even gasoline was crappy back then having real low octane ratings. These cars could be very hard to start on cold mornings if your battery wasn't in real good shape. This is why ether was used to start cars.
It was then realized if they went to 12 volt batteries the engines turned over faster and more voltage was available for the ignition system. Hence the car started real quick every time. Problem was the points were burning up. So auto engineers used a ballast resistor to limit/reduce the voltage to the points and coil to 6 volts. There was an additional wire directly from the ignition switch that allowed 12 volts just for starting not running. This allowed the coil to run cooler and points to not burn up so fast. Some ballast resistors limited voltage to 8 volts and some to 6 volts. That was the purpose for a ballast resistor. Most cars now days used a resistor wire with a bypass wire for starting only. I hope this helps with understanding old systems a bit.
Edited by Delta Brat, 26 December 2009 - 08:28 PM.
Added Statement of compression
Posted 26 December 2009 - 08:23 PM
Keep in mind the free things are always a good place to start. Clean your cables and connections. Then check for voltages at the coil. If you have 12 volts at the coil then I would look at how much is it supposed to have? Is your ignition switch still supplying 12 volts and causing the coil to burn up?
Thats where I would start.
Posted 26 December 2009 - 09:26 PM
Posted 27 December 2009 - 03:01 AM
Another thought about what may be happening here is something besides the disty is tied to the minus side of the coil and drawing excessive current through the coil. Like the tach circuit possibly.
Edited by Cougar, 27 December 2009 - 05:56 AM.
Posted 27 December 2009 - 12:21 PM
Posted 27 December 2009 - 02:06 PM
If the fans were connecting up to power through the coil I then could understand what is happening because of the extra current draw the fans would have made through the coil. This is the kind of thing I was refering to in my last post on this issue. Something appears to be drawing extra current through the coil. I would be checking all connections to the negative side of the coil for the trouble.
Edited by Cougar, 27 December 2009 - 02:19 PM.
Posted 27 December 2009 - 02:56 PM
Spiky back emf from a worn high current motor on the same circuit would be problematic though.
Posted 28 December 2009 - 12:51 AM
It stopped working again.............................................
And I'm again back to square one.........
Posted 28 December 2009 - 01:10 AM
To be sure, I assume you are connecting the wiring coming from the ignition power to the PLUS side of the coil and the MINUS side to the disty.
Edited by Cougar, 28 December 2009 - 01:14 AM.
Posted 28 December 2009 - 05:06 PM
Is your coil blowing up like KERPOWWW or just getting hot and not working??? I don't remember how to hook up the Subaru dist to the coil, but on a VW the points or dist hooks to the Negitive terminal.
Posted 28 December 2009 - 05:14 PM
Subarus use the minus side of the coil also to run the ignition pulses.
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