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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Overheating and no heat issues... please help!


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34 replies to this topic

#26 emarsh

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Posted 16 January 2010 - 11:19 AM

bump... if someone tells me what is causing the problem i will give you $20!! that's how desperate i am!! i just can't figure out what the problem is!!!!!

#27 emarsh

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Posted 16 January 2010 - 12:20 PM

here is a picture of the used radiator... seems to have a few small leaks that i wouldn't think are causing my issues... but i am gonna call the junkyard i got it from to get it replaced hopefully... does anyone think that this could be contributing to the problem? thanks

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#28 emarsh

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Posted 16 January 2010 - 12:31 PM

my other question that i completely forgot to ask...

is there an actual bleeder anywhere in the system?! i have tried the bleeder on the side of the radiator and a tiny bit of steam came out and then itightened it up once some coolant came out... i am soo stumped on this situation!

#29 AWD TURBO!

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Posted 16 January 2010 - 02:15 PM

OK so its in the teens do you have something in front of the rater to keep the car worm so the thrums stat stays open at temp? if its too cold out the water in the radiator is getting too cold making the stat closed! moter is hot! water is ice cold

make since?

did you try? yes the actual bleeder is the cap you start your car & run it with out the cap on add coolant don't put the cap on tell you stick your finger in the coolant & it is HOT & looks like it is flowing...

Edited by AWD TURBO!, 16 January 2010 - 02:39 PM.


#30 mudduck

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Posted 16 January 2010 - 02:44 PM

I don't think that leaking radiator is helping.

#31 AWD TURBO!

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Posted 16 January 2010 - 02:56 PM

I don't think that leaking radiator is helping.

you would think so but he does not think its the leaking radiator lol

#32 akc

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Posted 16 January 2010 - 03:47 PM

My car was doing a similar thing ... Mine ended up being a bad radiator the old one was not leaking did not seem to have cold spots... the hoses seemed to be the right temps.. it looked fine and water ran out it fine...it was not loosing water.. compression was good... was a EA82 car I know I am not a mechanic. but when we changed it it was fine..( until the hoses started leaking a week later) maybe it is the used radiator? On the heat issue have you flushed the core? mine after it overheated got clogged with some goo and no longer let out hot air. the hoses were both hot but aparently it was just going in and out. Of course yours may be another problem.. took a few times switching hoses (flushed it off the heater core hoses with a garden hose .) before the goo got disclodged maybe 10-20 minutes of flushing. just about ready to say it was not the issue when it came out.

mine I could drive around. it rode at about 1/2 on the temp gage.winter 3/4 summer..but when I stopped at a light or was in slower traffic it would rise but rarely overheat (until it hit the 100 temp this last summer then I could not drive it 5 miles.) unless I was out driving it for hours without stopping then I would have to pull over.. I really could not see the raise in temp at a stop sign in the winter it only became aparent in the summer. I also could idle it in the winter and sometimes when driving for no real reason would climb to 3/4 but I really noticed the issue in the summer..I usually drive less then 30 minutes at a time. now it runs at about 1/4 and has good heat.

#33 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 17 January 2010 - 03:00 AM

Remove the clutch fan for testing - you don't need it anyway. It was only equipped on engines with AC. And with temps in the teens - you can pitch that sucker in the weeds.

Once you have the fan off you can check the surface of the radiator to be sure the temp is uniform across it. If you find any cold spots that would indicate poor flow through that section. Just pouring water in one end and seeing it come out the other is not a good indicator of radiator condition.

Heater core's are not part of the primary cooling system except to heat the cabin. Even if it's clogged it wouldn't cause overheating. Flow through the heater core by-pass lines is not neccesary for proper cooling system function.

Additionally - a leak in the radiator will bleed off system pressure. Pressure is what allows the coolant to rise to temps above the boiling point without flashing off to steam (think pressure cooker). You may have low pressure due to the leaks, causing steam bubbles to form - steam does not circulate and the bubbles will stop the flow of coolant. You need the system to hold pressure or it will boil and not circulate properly. This is particularly critical with EA82 cooling systems. Any air bubbles OR pressure leaks that lead to steam bubble formation WILL cause overheating. It's just the nature of the EA82's - they have very little overhead in terms of cooling capacity. Any small thing that's wrong will expose their weakness.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 17 January 2010 - 03:07 AM.


#34 AWD TURBO!

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Posted 17 January 2010 - 02:17 PM

....

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=66707

#35 EmmCeeBee

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Posted 19 January 2010 - 12:08 AM

bump... if someone tells me what is causing the problem i will give you $20!! that's how desperate i am!! i just can't figure out what the problem is!!!!!

I could use the $20.... but I'll turn it down just to show this is "unbiased".

Take the advice of the others here: you've got a clogged radiator. All the symptoms you describe line up with that diagnosis. Been there (except for the jumping snowbanks part).

Follow the above link to the two-row radiator recommendation. Best long-term cooling fix you can do for an EA82.

-- Mark




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