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ea82t acting up after coil and wires


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28 replies to this topic

#1 xforxlifex

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Posted 08 February 2004 - 08:25 PM

Ok my story is somewhat similar to 86subaru's. I replaced the coil with the accel super stock. I hadnt done the plugs or the wires yet. why i dunno. In second gear at 2,000 rpm it will buck like its going to stall or like its not getting any park but then the power comes back and its fine for the rest of the gears. I put the accel 8mms on to see if there would be any change but not really. I havent done the plugs yet. any ideas? All of this started just after i put in the new coil. its never happened before.

#2 Erik R

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Posted 08 February 2004 - 08:38 PM

If you get the wires mixed up and connect the coil with reverse polarity.........it will still work, but with a 60% loss of efficiency........:eek:

#3 xforxlifex

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Posted 08 February 2004 - 08:40 PM

I know the plug wires are right, cuz that would be very noticable. The coil wires i think were on right i will double check that, if im correct the black is the ground?

thanks
mike

#4 xforxlifex

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Posted 09 February 2004 - 11:54 AM

anyone else have any ideas?

#5 heep70

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Posted 09 February 2004 - 12:34 PM

Hitching a ride. I am fixin to do the same swap.

#6 Qman

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Posted 09 February 2004 - 02:28 PM

+ = black wire
- = yellow wire

#7 xforxlifex

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Posted 09 February 2004 - 05:11 PM

well.... looks like i might have found my problem area then. thanks q man.

#8 Erik R

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Posted 10 February 2004 - 09:28 AM

xforxlifex, I did not think you had your plug wires crossed, just the coil wires.............again, it will still run, but not very well........:eek:

#9 xforxlifex

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Posted 10 February 2004 - 12:39 PM

Ok so i switched the polarity it on the coil and the problem is still there. except it seems to be happening more now. Could this be because i need the larger gap plugs. If so it would sorta make sense for it happening more now (it was wired wrong and only getting 60% out of the coil) Im gonna do the plugs next with a .050 gap and see if this helps the problem. anyone have any ideas?

#10 Erik R

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Posted 11 February 2004 - 09:15 PM

Originally posted by Erik R
If you get the wires mixed up and connect the coil with reverse polarity.........it will still work, but with a 60% LOSS of efficiency........:eek:



That should have returned you to normal operation......assuming that connecting the wires wrong on the coil doesn't harm any of the other related electronics.................I don't know if it would.......

I put in an Accel coil in my car and have yet to change my plug gap, but I know I should.................Stock is .044 and it should go to .047-.048...........

.050 might be a little much, but I guess the coil will "make the jump" :D

#11 xforxlifex

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Posted 11 February 2004 - 10:40 PM

well im gonna try a different accel coil who knows maybe i just got a dud. if the problem precists after that its time to start thinking it might be a fuel problem.

#12 Alexx

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Posted 11 February 2004 - 10:58 PM

This sounds like a carburetor issue.

#13 xforxlifex

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Posted 12 February 2004 - 12:29 AM

haha i wish but its FI!

#14 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 12 February 2004 - 11:44 AM

Originally posted by Erik R
I put in an Accel coil in my car and have yet to change my plug gap, but I know I should.................Stock is .044 and it should go to .047-.048...........



ditto. xforxlifex: the gap doesn't make too much difference. my understanding is that it will make a little more low-end torque.

#15 xforxlifex

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Posted 12 February 2004 - 11:46 AM

yea even with that issue i can feel a small power gain pre turbo

#16 rallyruss

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Posted 12 February 2004 - 12:20 PM

wow this has gotten out of hand. too manny people with this coil and plug wire problem.

an ignition miss feels harsh and jerky. a fuel miss is a bit softer feeling.

I installed a accel coil and a set of ngk wires with a new cap and rotor a while back. have not gotten to the plugs yet. and no problems of this nature.

what is being described sounds a bit like a spark gone astray. rember that a spark will take the path of least resistance. has anyone checked thier dist. cap and rotor for carbon tracking?

are those wires routed properly? ( personally I dislike the accel wires) loose fitting boots or defective wires can let the spark take a short cut to ground.

if you cannot figure it out put your old stuff back on. does the problem go away?

oh and the larger plug gap also means that it will be more dificult to jump that gap giving it more opertunity to find another path to ground.

#17 xforxlifex

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Posted 12 February 2004 - 04:22 PM

Well the cap and rotor were replaced about 6,000 miles ago. All this came up when i was running the new coild JUST the accel coil. So no accel wires, the stock ngks (which looked like sh*t). This is why i think the coil could possibly be a dud. Im gonna throw in the stock coil and see what happens if the problem goes away im gonna get another accel coil if it starts up again... well i dunno what the hell to do then.

#18 heep70

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 12:25 PM

Check the restance of the coil. It is supposed to be 1.2ohms across the top. Mine did the same thing. I measured mine and it was 1.4ohms. More than likely the coil if trash now. Take it back and get another, have them measure the resistance. Accel might have a problem here.

#19 xforxlifex

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 06:29 PM

finally someone whose had the same issue haha. Yea its got to be the coil im gonna have to replace it. Sux when you pay 40 bucks(shipping included) and its a piece of sh*t. Ill break out the DMM and test that tomorrow thank you for the specs.

#20 rallyruss

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 09:01 PM

the coil may be no good but the resistance test is kinda a poor test. If you had a means to measure KV or easier yet do the old how far can your spark jump trick and color (blue good- orange bad)

I checked resistance on mine before instalation and it was somewhat similar to what you have.

you may want to consider the pick up/module. they have to drive this new coil that might be a bit more work than it did before.

#21 heep70

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 09:11 PM

I went through this issue with MSD and Mallory on another coil/dist problem I had. They were very clear about making sure that I was using the right resistance on my coil. They stated That it is OK to be under, but not over. It will either burn up the module or the coil. I am not real hip on electronics, but I do know that once I had they right set up in my pickup I had no more problem since.

As far a spark on the Subaru. It was arcing a 1/4" and it was clear/blue, still would not fire. Not saying your wrong, but it sure fooled me for half the day. I put my old stock coil in and it fired right up.

I am not sure of the pickup module you are talking about. Please inform me. Thanks

#22 xforxlifex

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Posted 17 February 2004 - 10:29 AM

Alright Greg. I tested the coil and i got aroing 1.1 ohms. So i guess this means that the coil is not the issue? *smashes head against wall* I think im gonna pull off the cap and take a look at the rotor. I havent replaced that because the previous owner stripped the retaining screw.

mike

#23 heep70

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Posted 17 February 2004 - 10:38 AM

You might also take it to an auto shop that can test the spark off the center post. rallyruss mentioned a KV test. I believe that is the test they do to find out if the spark is good. Also while you are inside the distributor check the air gap and also the advance pod vacumm.

This is a shot in the dark here. Can you see with a timing light if the spark advances when reving the engine?

#24 xforxlifex

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Posted 17 February 2004 - 11:54 AM

Yea i think its about time to bring it to a shop. I was just driving it and it seems to happen at WOT most of the time. And when it starts to buck and loose power i can hear loud pops comming from the tail pipe. I dont think its a back fire cuz its always done that pop after about 3500 rpm due to the dual exhaust. How do i check the air gap and advance pod vaccuum? Do you think that there is still a possibility that it is the coil? Im still leaning towards that since all of this came up after the coil was put in. But there is always the chain effect.

#25 rallyruss

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Posted 17 February 2004 - 12:06 PM

heep70- I think we are looking at the same problem from differant sides. I just wanted to point out that I have been shown coils with bad resistance values that fired and ones that were spot on that did not.
my last automotive teacher was a briliant guy. He really tried to get us to diagnose things with better tests like the voltage drop tests, scope paterns, and comon sense. he also works for an independant shop and snap on diagnossis. he now is the head of his department at the school.

I did not mention it before and should have. you can purchase spark testers of various makes and models for really checking spark corectly.they dont cost much. a spark that ony jumps a 1/4" is boarderline N.F.G.

the pick up/module , ignitor or what ever else you hear it called is the guts of the disty that drive the coil at the proper time.

heep70 has a good point with the timing light. it may be helpfullin diagnosing seems how it has a inductive pick up that detects the magnetic field(spark) in a plug wire.




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