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What are Issues with Northeast EJ25>>EJ22 swaps?
Posted 01 February 2010 - 02:56 PM
Where does the rust cause issues if I want to swap in another engine?
BTW, this EJ25D has 'low compression' per the owner, not HG failure.
Posted 01 February 2010 - 03:48 PM
I usually reassemble "problem" fasteners with never seize lubricant unless they should have loctite.
Posted 01 February 2010 - 03:50 PM
Thank-you for the info.
Posted 01 February 2010 - 03:58 PM
Posted 01 February 2010 - 04:00 PM
For an engine swap though, the exhaust bolts are the only think likely to be that badly rusted... I'd be alot more concerned about doing suspension or brake work, but engine swap, probably not that bad
Posted 01 February 2010 - 04:05 PM
Posted 01 February 2010 - 04:07 PM
Posted 01 February 2010 - 04:10 PM
I'd be alot more concerned about doing suspension or brake work, but engine swap, probably not that bad
Yeah...that's what I was thinking/hoping, too. The car is driveable, so I'll check the brakes, and such....
However....If I'm going to resell it, whatever's underneath may be an issue w/a potential buyer if they have it inspected......Hmmmm.
Posted 01 February 2010 - 04:17 PM
I've done 2 of these swaps/replacements, but both were Automatics ---I've also done 3 other Auto tranny swaps on '90-93 Legacys.
This is a 5-speed.
With my trusty (?) Haynes manual what 'gotchas' do I want to watch out for? Special tools?
Posted 01 February 2010 - 04:38 PM
If you have pulled / swapped before with automatic should be no problem with this.
Posted 01 February 2010 - 05:08 PM
The bodies here all rust out where the rear bumper meets the quarter panel.
I deal with this stuff all day, it's not so bad.
For my personal cars, I buy them from southern states and get them shipped to avoid rust. My 95 Impreza I just bought came from florida, my last wrx was from southern MD.
Posted 01 February 2010 - 07:11 PM
Also, as the car is still warm, loosen the exhaust nuts (natural torch of the engine heat) they come loose much easier when they are warm.
Posted 02 February 2010 - 11:42 AM
usually the threads on most bolts will be clean even if the hex is rusty.
the bolys you would really have to worry about are longer ones that go through captive nuts, and the excess threads are exposed and cause the whole thing to jam up when the bolt is turned halfway out. use PB and just go back and forth to clear off the threads.
usually with rusty cars its the small fender and body bolts that are most likely to break. I dont have too much of a bad time with the larger suspension bolts underneath on moderately rusty cars.
if the exhaust stud nuts are so rusty they want to slip, you can try hammering on a 13mm socket as a last resort. avoid re-using the old ones if you can.
i would say the most difficult bolts on a rusty soob will be the pinch bolt for the ball joint. Sometimes the ehad will break off and then you are resorted to drills and taps or sourcing another knuckle. its the sort of thing if the ball joint is not bad, leave it alone!
also, with the car being rusty, its a good idea to flush out all the brake lines to keep them from rusting inside out, and remove all the calipers nd lubricate all the slide pins as good measure.
the bellhousing hardware should come free easily. usually once you break the torque, they just spin out by hand, unless the threads are dirty with oil and dust
its a good idea to use anti-seize on any hardware that comes off again for future maintenance.
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