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XT6 Alt conversion...Different than USRM


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I just completed the XT6 Alternator conversion on my EA81 86 Brat. Thought I would list the differences in installation that I experienced as compared to the procedures in the USRM.

 

1. Took alternator to electrical shop to swap pulleys. Guy there said it took a bit to match a v-pulley to the alt shaft (Narrow shaft). Found a 2 piece pulley from an older Mitsubishi alternator used on a forklift that fit perfectly.

 

2. Took large plastic connector off XT6 alt by popping cover off end near alt and removed 10mm nut holding it to alt. Used insulator (taken from Hitachi alt) and placed on stud marked "B". This stud is the same size as the "B" connection on the Hitachi alt and lets you use the stock cable without having to change the connector.

 

3. Discovered my alternator mount was different than the one shown in the USRM. Instead of a mount with 2 ears as shown in the photos, mine was a solid mount that fit between the ears on the alternator. Pushed spacer on rear alternator ear in till it took up the gap between mount and alternator ear. Pushed stock bolt (M8?, about 6" long) thru front ear, mount, rear ear and finally threaded into stock nut/spark plug wire loom.

 

4. Did not have to change alternator belt. Stock one fit. Adjusted belt, tightened all bolts. Alternator pulley lined up perfectly with WP and Crank pulleys.

 

5. Started Brat. Voltmeter (dash) read right at 13.5-14v line right away instead of hovering at 12V until alt got warm. Turned on lights, blower, turn signal, dome light and radio, volts dropped only down to 12v. Am very happy :D

 

I know this is rather long and pics would surely help. I will try to get some as soon as I can.

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Looks like the USRM is written for installation on a EA82T engine. Guess maybe it needs pics and story for EA81 engines too.

 

Incase anyone is interested, the pulley spacer bushing I made for use with RX7 v-pulley measures .420" long, ID of .595", and .866" outside (wierd dimensions but it worked.) That resulted in the pulley just clearing the case, the nut having just enough threads to hold securely, and a reasonably straight belt angle. Oh yeah, a rattle gun is the easy way to remove the pulley nut and you don't have to hold the pulley with a pipe wrench.

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Will do when I get home from work. The bushing and pulley are currently off the alternator so I might as well snap a pic. It really doesn't look like much, just a straight bushing, no step in it like the one shown on the USRM. The funny dimensions make more sense when converted to metric. Length=10.8mm, ID=15.1mm and OD=22mm. I should also add that the bushing provided room enough for a split lock washer under the nut (but I still used lock-tite.)

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Mike is correct this art. was written for an EA82 conversion. The title was changed by someone?

Finding a pulley from a forklift is also a bit "out-there".

I like Mike's solution. Lets get that drawn up.

 

We need the entire article (and manual in general) updated.

The submission link is no longer valid I am told, so please submit updates to Shawn directly.

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