Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Trashwagon "EJ82" wiring harness, ecu
Posted 10 February 2004 - 05:25 AM
the bottom studs line up, but the trans is offset to the motor that way. i compared the flywheel, and the holes are the same size and pattern, just farther apart. the center for the crank is the same size.
i removed the studs, stuck the flywheel on(no bolts) and lined up the input shaft.
i need to figure a way out to make an adapter plate, i found some pieces of hot rolled steel, have the idea to weld on some studs.
the holes between trans and motor are too close to make side by side bolts, i would like to drill and tap itf there is enough meat.
so far i can do the flywheel, if i can just figure out an adapter.
if all else fails, i can go with the ej 2wd auto just so i can do the swap, to have a reliable motor instead of some floppy carb
(87 gl-10 turbo (carbbed spfi block) wagon, half a 5 lug suspension)
Posted 10 February 2004 - 05:26 PM
Posted 10 February 2004 - 05:38 PM
there's another thread out there, where someone is putting a Legacy motor and Ea82 trans into a Justy. He already has the spacer built, and has some pics.....
Posted 10 February 2004 - 05:59 PM
at least if i can see an example, it will give me an idea of what to do. so far the only example i had seen was one BRATSRUS had (uninstalled), it was one of 2, which i believe the other one CORKY had in ULTIMATE RX
Posted 10 February 2004 - 06:03 PM
Jerry has the only adapter that I know of currently.
Posted 10 February 2004 - 08:48 PM
Posted 11 February 2004 - 09:30 AM
but the steel ide wont work, because with the aluminum i can have the depth for THREADED studs, and recessed bolts for the motor
i am going to look for aluminum today 15 inches wide by 12 inches tall. i will use whatever thickness is available, and use some of the cut out to have a flywheel spacer made.
i will work the adapter myself, and myoss feece has access to a BAND SAW, the spacer i will roufg out, drill the holes, and have a machinist turn it down gfor me, and cut the hole in the middle. i will give the machinist the spacer plate that came off the ej22 for dimensions. there is one around here that costs 50 bucks an hour. ut obviously thats worth it for an ej22 against my choice of 5spd (full time xt6, but eventually into trashwagon5, dual range)
i will put the ej in trashwagon6, leave the turbo mpfi harness there for now, then put the ej motor in trashwagon 5, after i have a turbo motor for 6
Posted 11 February 2004 - 06:40 PM
right now i have started to CUT with a JIGSAW. i found it cuts smoother if i gice a squirt of PB blaster.
i plan on having it cut, drilled, and tapped tonite. already got a 10mm 1.25 tap.
i found some nifty countersunk socket cap bolts, but they dont come in 1.25 threads. so i am going to have to be inventive here. i got some hex head bolts to start with, lets see what happens
Posted 12 February 2004 - 12:39 AM
thge bolts i used were a 17mm head, so i had to grind recesses in the tranny bellhousing. i will be using original studs from the 2.2 and ea82 cause o wont find them in the hardware store
i will drill thru the plate till i strike meat on the motor where i can, tap it m10 1.25
i will drill and tap the the dowels, and use bolts with nuts.
there are 2 spots on the top of the ea tranny that can be drilled for bolts with nuts.
i need to get an 11/32" drill bit for the studs, tap. i will do that tomorrow.
the input shaft slides in as it is, with 3/8 thick aluminum, and the heads of the bolts. i will dtrim the corner on the bolts to allow for the studs
i may attempt a flywheel spacer, but first i will try without, may use the ej22 flexplate retainer. i will use that to drill out the flywheel, as a template, and maybe to brace the flywheel after its drilled
if i maintain the exact alignment woth the holes, they will be oblong, and the flywheel can still be used on an ea82 motor.
the legact and ea82 bolts are the same size for the fltwheel to crank, i will be using ea82's
as far as the bottom studs, no i did not align them with the ea trans. i tool them out of the ej22, put the ej in a bucket, and hung the trans from the hoist, and lined up the pilot bearing to the flywheel, which just fits on the crank snout in the back
Posted 12 February 2004 - 06:29 PM
the input shaft lines up bBEFORE the recesses, so now the only spacing will be 3/8. i am pretty sure i wont need a flywheel spacer as long as the starter engages
i will have it mocked up tonite, studs, thread locker. then i will drill the flywheel
Posted 13 February 2004 - 02:35 AM
the bottom passenger side stud threads thru the plate thru the block. the other side i will have to use a bolt.
i removed the starter stud and treaded a ling stud thru to the block
now i have drilled out the flywheel, using the AT's flex plate retainer as a template. i had to work the holes a little with the DREMEL, but now all the bolts tread in, and the heads cover all of the hole..
i could keep going, but its late. tomorrow i will take a sanding disc to the flywheel, mount the clutch, and bolt up the tranny. from there i will mock up the starter, to see how the teeth engage, with 12 v.
so long as i secure the motor so it doesnt torque itself out of its bucket! (trans hung in the hoist)
hopefully i will get as far as pulling the crossmember, and installing the motor/trans form underneath(suspension mods at the same time)
so far i have $43.18 wrapped up in this project. 30 for the metal, and the rest for a tap, drill bit, and jigsaw blades(pair)
so now all the work has been done, as long as the starter lines up.
Posted 13 February 2004 - 01:19 PM
the bendix gear is hitting something, just clicks, so it looks as if i am going to grind away on the plate on the inside
Posted 14 February 2004 - 05:43 PM
i am using a tock ea82 starter. suppose i could grind away the corners of the teeth on the bendix gear later on, since i have spare starters
Posted 14 February 2004 - 09:55 PM
i took a few pics
Posted 14 February 2004 - 10:03 PM
I wanna do that with mine when I find some light blue shag carpet
Posted 14 February 2004 - 10:09 PM
and the top padded part and the door pocket are held on by screws
cut the carpet to fit, and install the pices, so the screws go thru the carpet. it will hold itself together
on the back doors, only the top and door handle will hold on, so i used some nylon zip ties on the bottom
Posted 14 February 2004 - 10:14 PM
Posted 15 February 2004 - 12:24 AM
Posted 15 February 2004 - 12:45 AM
this is the next mod. for my brat an EJ motor with a RX Hi Lo , i just hope the gears can handle it
Posted 15 February 2004 - 06:05 AM
the motor mount holes are slotted and lined up so the dowels on the mounts go thru. i also used the ej22 mPOWER STEERING LINES connected to the EA82 RACK
i have found that i will be FORCED to use the XT6 KNUCKLE, ROTOR, to keep the parking brake style CALIPER. they are bolted to the LEGACY STRUT, and the strut has the EA82 CAP
the assembly is ready to slip under the car. the struts are mounted to the strut towers. i will install the motor/frame first. then connect the axles and ball joint.
the front will be using XT6 tierod ends
i still have yet to compare xt6 and legacy axles, but i need the 1-1/8" socket(yosh has it). the axles are the same length, i want to know if the splines are, because one of the xt6 axles has a torn boot. i will have xt6 on one side, and legacy on the other if they indeed do fit the same
Posted 15 February 2004 - 06:36 PM
Will definately be an rx killer now, but we will still drag race regularly just for sh!ts-n-giggles. The xt6 rear susp. is in tact in the anus of the wagon.
leg anus strutsin the front with xt knuckles, and swaybar and and ea82 strut caps.
Five lug all around. it is pimp.
Posted 16 February 2004 - 10:55 PM
o connected the clutch cable. the 4wd vac lines are connected, but the wiring has a different plug. i need to swap the wiring from the other trannyv yet, now that i see,. the tranny ground wire is connected
i will need longer hose for the heater hose
i will need a linger throttle cable, the hashed turbo cable is too short, i will try the legacy cable. if that dont work, than an spfi or carb cable will do
i tried to mount the legacy radiator, but its too tall. but the xt6 radiator fits, once i change out the bottom rail for the alignment nipples.
i started to pull the harness from the legacy. uinder the hood i have the headlight front harness pulled to the relay box. i also have the dashboard out, for easy access
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users