Whenever I do clutch packs, I always drain the trans fluid before hand. When you break the tailshaft loose you will still get some tranny fluid leaking out, but not a huge mess like if you didn't drain it. It really isn't a difficult job. When you get the bolts out for the tail, it's usually a pain to break loose. Try not to use a screwdriver to pry it open unless you absolutely have to. And if you do, pry on the top half as the fluid is in the bottom. You can normally break them loose with some real good shots from a rubber mallot, hit it as hard as you can. When you pull the tail off, make sure to reach in, and disconnect the duty C, before you pull it all the way out. While you are in there, I would replace the clutch pack (dealer), and the solenoid (dealer), since it has so many miles on it. And also the two gaskets under the duty C. Check the inner clutch basket (tranny side) also, I've seen quite a few break, where the shaft is welded on, this will cause a lack of 4wd. The hardest part of this job is removing the old gasket, haha. Could be the most time consuming too! When you put it back together, make sure you have the parking pawl positioned correctly if it falls out, and that you push the duty C connector inside and away from all moving parts. Afterwards, it usually takes right around 5 quarts of ATF for the job. Props to ericem on the pics, that's a perfect example of what you are going to be playing with.
Edit, it's in the way of one of the bolts, so you can't forget it, but remember to remove the rear speed sensor on the passenger side of the tail shaft, and remember to reinstall it. :-) Good luck!
Edited by 94Loyale, 17 February 2010 - 02:19 AM.