Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Steve's AWESOME Brat


  • Please log in to reply
196 replies to this topic

#26 ShawnW

ShawnW

    Subaru Master Technician

  • Administrator
  • 12,923 posts
  • Denver, Colorado

Posted 08 June 2010 - 04:16 PM

Pretty cool! Might get the inside sandblasted and coated while you are at it.

#27 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 08 June 2010 - 06:15 PM

wow, never seen a gas tank in the manner like that....:)
thats a lot of work. hats off to your determination.
i've come across new replacement tanks on ebay...pretty cheap, never used one of them -they could be junk for all i know


Really? I've been looking for one for some time, haven't found one.

Also tried all our suppliers at work (I work for a jobber), nada.

And yea, I'm planning on getting it sandblasted, and then once it's welded back together I'll use the POR15 US Tank sealer for good measure/future rust prevention.

#28 LPGsuperchargedBrumby

LPGsuperchargedBrumby

    Fully retarded and low on compression

  • Members
  • 655 posts
  • Dunedin, NZ

Posted 09 June 2010 - 06:26 AM

for welding petrol tanks up i've alway purged the tank with CO2 before and during welding...costs a bit more in gas but is better that than joining the blown into the roof club...and its alot less drama than doing all the stuff that you have done.

still i understand why you have gone to the lengths that you have...petrol vapour takes no prisoners

#29 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 23 June 2010 - 08:33 PM

DISCLAIMER: This is NOT a guide on how to weld. Your welds should not like mine. I do not know how to weld, I just bought a welder and started gluing stuff together. I've never been taught. The one thing I've been told is that if you can't weld well, weld a lot. Furthermore, if you don't properly purge your gas tank, it WILL EXPLODE AND KILL YOU. So yea. Be careful, and learn how to weld better than me.

Posted Image

Next step is to seal off the tank and pressurize it to around 5psi with compressed air to find all the pinhole leaks.

#30 bratman18

bratman18

    ADIDASubarus

  • Members
  • 3,435 posts
  • Jefferson, Maine

Posted 25 June 2010 - 07:04 AM

From what I can see, it did pretty good. Looks like a great way to solve the rusty tank issue!!

#31 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 25 June 2010 - 10:57 AM

Pinholes may certainly be a problem. Make sure you coat the tank with sealer BEFORE you paint the outside of the tank as any pin-holes will allow the sealer's prep chemicals to get under the paint and bubble it. For the same reason - don't use any bondo on the tank either. Not that you are likely to do that since it's not seen - but just relaying what I know from a motorcycle tank I worked on.

Don't be sad about your weld appearance - it takes a lot of time to be proficient with sheet metal and most inexpensive welders aren't suited for it right out of the box. You need thin wire and 100% CO2 to do it right.

GD

#32 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 25 June 2010 - 11:33 AM

I'm using .30 flux core :rolleyes:

Burns through the new metal and any rust-weakened areas in the original metal almost instantly. Quite a challenge.

#33 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 25 June 2010 - 01:35 PM

Yeah that's a bad combo for sheet metal. That would try my patience for sure. Even with .23 I have to be real careful using my standard 75/25 gas mix. Wish I had the money for a second bottle so I could have C02 on hand for sheet metal. When you do automotive it's very often useful. It's on my list :rolleyes:

With the flux core I would be worried about slag inclusion causing some serious pin-holes. Since you obviously can't run a solid bead on the material you have to do a lot of start/stop work and that leads you to weld over the top of already cooled slag - remelting it into the weld puddle. This causes porosity.....

It's sad that so many first-time welders get bit by these low-buck flux core machines that really aren't suited to producing a fine weld job on anything but a farm tractor implement. The old adage here is so true - you just can't do quality work without quality tools. Unfortunately I learned that the same way your are learing it - bought a cheap flux-core machine and made some really crappy looking welds with it. It wasn't until I got some formal training on the subject that I could even make that poor thing weld decent and even then it's still a cheap POS and has limited useage, too few and unrefined controls, and is just generally not a pleasureable thing to use even for someone with the skills to do so.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 25 June 2010 - 01:49 PM.


#34 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 25 June 2010 - 02:18 PM

Mine is a gas/no gas welder, it's got all the attachments for hooking up gas, but a cylinder just isn't in my budget for the amount of welding I do, and the setup of my 'shop' (i.e. my dirt driveway)

Wind = gas blown away
Dirt floor = dragging a cylinder around with no cart

It's not a bad little welder, but it is what it is...

I'm relying on the tank sealer to deal with any leftover pinholes once I've got it 99%, then I'll be priming, painting and undercoating the outside of the tank.

#35 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 25 June 2010 - 03:24 PM

Mine is a gas/no gas welder, it's got all the attachments for hooking up gas, but a cylinder just isn't in my budget for the amount of welding I do, and the setup of my 'shop' (i.e. my dirt driveway)

Wind = gas blown away
Dirt floor = dragging a cylinder around with no cart


Yeah - not condusive for you probably. Although for windy conditions the best combo is flux core *with* gas. But in your case it's probably best to just wait till the wind dies down. Wind can be combatted by increaseing the gas pressure as well but you use gas more quickly. A small bottle can be easily carried and would dramatically increase the abilities of your machine (on a calm day). Check craigslist for used bottles. It only costs about $25 to fill a small bottle.

It's not a bad little welder, but it is what it is...


Yes - they will stick metal together. If you take a class or have a friend give you a lesson or two with a professional machine you would be better equipped to setup and use your small flux machine.

Oh - and another tip with the 110v machines - you MUST use a decent sized extension cord if you use one. The amperage draw will choke a small cord. 12 AWG minimum and 10 AWG for anything over 25 feet. I made this mistake on my first few attempts - my machine would strike an arc but the wire feed motor would not keep a constant speed and it wouldn't weld for beans like that.

I'm relying on the tank sealer to deal with any leftover pinholes once I've got it 99%, then I'll be priming, painting and undercoating the outside of the tank.


Yep - that's what the sealer is for. I'm sure it will be fine and no one is going to see the weld - especially after you undercoat it.

GD

#36 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 25 June 2010 - 09:16 PM

Im just making a mess trying to cover up the last few pin holes... time to try the sealer :-\

#37 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 26 June 2010 - 08:12 PM

I dunno how this stuff is supposed to work to seal pinholes... it's way too thin.

Time will tell I suppose.

#38 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 26 June 2010 - 09:30 PM

If it's a true "pin hole" then even water would have a hard time doing anything but drip slightly - surface tension will keep it from passing through the hole easily..... now if it's a "nail hole"...... well you are gonna have a real time with that. Probably have to dam up the hole with something first - maybe duct tape, etc?

GD

#39 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 26 June 2010 - 09:45 PM

I'm gonna let this stuff thats in there now set, fill it up with water again, mark any drips with a scribe, then use seal-all to patch the holes, then go another round with the tank sealer

And yea, they're more like finishing nail holes than pin holes I suppose. Maybe up to a 1/16 in for the biggest. Probably around a dozen or so? Bleh. This sucks. I just want a new tank :-\

#40 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 28 June 2010 - 10:44 AM

It actually seems to have sealed decently, I might throw in another can for good measure though.

#41 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 01 July 2010 - 07:50 PM

So... she seems to be leak free!

Taking it in for the first inspection tomorrow, then after it fails horribly, we'll go from there. :lol:

#42 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 02 July 2010 - 03:28 PM

Drove the Brat to the inspection place this morning... feels a little weak. Probably needs the jetting looked at.

They might be able to squeeze my inspection in for this afternoon, but it'll probably be monday... I hope it passes :s

#43 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 05 July 2010 - 01:02 PM

Failed on account of rust. ************.

#44 Twitch de la Brat

Twitch de la Brat

    Village Psycho

  • Members
  • 1,541 posts
  • The Athol of Idaho

Posted 05 July 2010 - 01:22 PM

Failed on account of rust. ************.


Ouch, I'm sorry guys.
How bad is it?
Like, a couple weekends and it'll legal, ugly but legal?
Or are we talking it needs a full restoration?

Twitch

#45 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 05 July 2010 - 02:07 PM

Ouch, I'm sorry guys.
How bad is it?
Like, a couple weekends and it'll legal, ugly but legal?
Or are we talking it needs a full restoration?

Twitch


I haven't taken a close look at it, but it sounds like it needs some extensive work. I'm wondering about just tacking in a couple pieces over the rust holes and undercoating over them, then ripping them back off after to do a proper repair down the road...

The issue is that I have to move in 3 weeks, and I'm trying to get my impreza wrapped up too.

#46 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 05 July 2010 - 06:39 PM

Blargh.... Not doable. They apparently will scrape off anything that looks like fresh paint. So it needs to be done properly.

Time to find a rust free parts car.

#47 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 05 July 2010 - 09:27 PM

Man - they are that anal about rust up there? You can't take it to another registration place that's not so picky?

That sucks - sorry to hear about your continued roadblocks on this project. :mad:

GD

#48 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 05 July 2010 - 10:22 PM

Unfortunately most anywhere is going to be the same.

The one saving grace is that being in the PNW, it's really easy to find a rust-free EA81 wagon I can hack all the floor out of to put into the brat, I'm assuming for the most part it'll be similar/adaptable, if not the same.

#49 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 05 July 2010 - 10:45 PM

If it's cabin floor pan metal you are after make sure it's one with a matching transmission type and definitely only get a 4WD. There are clearance issues with the 2WD tunnel sheet metal and the larger transmissions.

GD

#50 Splinter

Splinter

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 212 posts
  • Victoria, BC, Canada

Posted 05 July 2010 - 11:04 PM

It's mostly the front left wheel area, rad support and rear right frame-tunnel-thing area

I'm not too concerned about holes in the cabin floor, I can just chop out what I need to and weld in some sheet metal.

I think I might have to invest in some gas before I tackle this tho :rolleyes:




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users