s'ko Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Considering picking up a 1982 brat. what are some things I should look for? I am pretty farmiliar with the potential overheating problems of older soobs if they were abused. Anything mechanically? Also who has information on websites that have off-road mod information? Do they make Locking differentials for soobs? My brother has a 2003 Jeep Rubicon that is an awesome off-roader, but the think that the Brat do just as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarubrat Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 First off look for rust. Check under the floor mats at the foot wells, check the rear framerails for rot and the wheel wells in the rear. Other areas can rust as well but those are the main ones. Don't worry about the engine or tranny, even if they are FUBARed or missing a good body is worth it. Engines and trannys are a dime a dozen. In fact no matter what is wrong with it as long as the body is good that is what counts. However most of them went to the junkyard with strong drivelines and cancer of the body. Limited slip diffs are out there, there is a great article on converting the 3.7:1 over to 3.9:1 in the USRM on this site. Check out my site for more details on lifts, engine swaps and general off road mods. Look under MY BRAT mods on the left for pics of various mods and I have some articles as well. My BRAT is an 82 as well by the way. BRATs are fantastic off road vehicles, allot like an old Wyllis Jeep when stock. But when you throw a lift and some good tires into the mix the capability skyrockets. Above all, congratulations and welcome to the club. Link to my site is directly below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Look for rust mostly. And body damage from the top of the cab, back to the tailgate. The front end and the doors are easy to find since they are the same as the cars. 82 is an odd year - only one with chrome bumpers, antenna on the drivers side, red gauges, different grill and headlights, and the only year with the third eye. There's not a lot of info on off-road mods to be found out there - stick around here long enough, and you'll get the idea. Lift kits are availible, but unless you can do some fabrication, or know someone who can, there's not much else that can be done easily. Installation of a 5 speed D/R from a newer soob can be done - bigger tires / rims, etc. If you can fabricate, or know someone who can, the possibilities are endless. No lockers are availible - you can weld the rear, and pull an axle when you take it off-road, or LSD's can be had for a price, or sometimes at the JY - they are pretty rare tho. There's really nothing that can be done with the front diff without dissasembling the transmission (it's inside), but it's possible that a LSD could be installed - although I have yet to see or hear of one. Overheating isn't a problem with the EA81's in Brats - they are as much oil-cooled as they are water cooled, so even without coolant at all, they are difficult to overheat. If it's real hot outside, you might blow a headgasket, but that's about it. With a good working radiator, you shouldn't have any problems at all. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 82 is my favorite year brat. my 82 has a modified 4/3 BYB Lift, and custom bumpers and skid plate. pics in the link below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northguy Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 cancer in the engine compartment around the strut towers. Almost all other rust is repairable. Strut tower rust is fatal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted February 12, 2004 Author Share Posted February 12, 2004 thanks for the input. Here are some pics of the Jeeps in my family. Funny thing is Dad has a 91 Wranger stock, Bro has a 03 rubi and a 83 Cj, he also has a cj11 on blocks and a 91 cherokee sport as a parts car, sister has a 03 rubi, mom had a cherokee, little bro has a 91 Wranger being rebuilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Being from Los Angeleese, I doubt the one you are looking at has rust (??) But all three of mine have severe, like in major, rust on the wheel wells in the bed behind the shock absorber mounts??? I have not see this place mentioned, mine must be weird salt belt models. The drivers chair will be saggin on the door side. easy fix, swap chairs, have your main squeeze lean toward you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Question to subarubrat Do you still have the stock engine? Is there any problems pushing the 30 inch tires that you have? I spoke to the guy who has it. It use to be his work truck and he just got a new one. Probably will not have the back seats, but that's ok. No rust. Unfortunately I will be going to Laughlin this weekend and will not be able to see it until Tuesday. Hopefully it will still be there when I get back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarubrat Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Pretty far from stock. I am running a tranny nukin modded ER27 @240Hp. I had some bugs to work out but things are running well now. I have no problem turning or smoking those tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam N.D.J. Posted February 14, 2004 Share Posted February 14, 2004 Mmm, 82 Brat, kinda have a sweet spot in my heart for the that year. Wonder why, oh wait a minute!! I have a drivers side antenna! Thats gotta be why. Not really a whole lotta sites that go into depth on Soobs and Off-roading, but if you look around here, and check out the sites in peoples sigs, you find a lot of good info. Also the board it's self is an awsome place for info. They don't make lockers for soobs, yet. We're working on it, and I think one day it'll happen. Some people are working on spools, ones that will get rid of the weak, hollow stubs. For now, you can go with the old standby, a Lincoln Locker. -Scott, still nukin tranny's huh? Are these 4 or 5 speeds? Cause I feel your pain on the 4spd, mine went pulling it out of the car port first time I drove it with the new motor. The 5spd thats in it now though, holding up just find, with no problems. (trannys a 5spd D/r out of an 86 RX). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarubrat Posted February 14, 2004 Share Posted February 14, 2004 Actually just the one, I nuked reverse in a mudhole that was well over waist deep and I was shifting forward and reverse too fast rocking it out. It could have been avoided and now with the winch it will be avoided. The new 4 spd is holding up fine. I am doing a 5spd swap for GP this summer, but also considering an Outback H6 at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted February 17, 2004 Author Share Posted February 17, 2004 Taking a look at the Brat today. Wish I had a soob with me when I went to Laughlin. Saw plenty of trails to explore. BTW, Laughlin sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted February 18, 2004 Author Share Posted February 18, 2004 Went to look at the Brat yesterday. It's a faded baby blue color. They guy who owns it works for a auto parts supplier. He was at that time replacing the oil pan gasket. We were not able to start it up b/c of that. In terms of the engine it looks clean. According to the owner the carb was recently replaced. There is over 200k on the odo. Since it is an LA car, there is no signs of cancer in the places people suggested I look at. The grill and headlights are not stock. They are from a Sub wagon. There is slight damage to the ds front fender and the molding is gone on that side as well. There was some oil build up on the rear diff. All said and done for $550.00 not a bad deal. My roommate does land-scaping so he's gonna use it for a little while until he can afford a toyota pickup and then it's time to raise it up. Thanks for all of the input about what to look for. Will take some pictures of it this weekend will get them on the board once there are developed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted February 23, 2004 Author Share Posted February 23, 2004 I got the BRAT. After further review, here are the items on the fix list. 1) odometer, speedo not working. 2) heater 3) no air coming out of the window defoggers vents 4) rear wheel bearing (passenger side) 5) tailgate chrome 6) 4wd disengagement makes a clunking noise 7) bumper, left fender dented Scrounging through the JY this weekend yielded left fender, bumper, wheel bearing, old soob white spoked wheels, BRAT rear seats, and a brushguard. Pics coming soon. BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted February 26, 2004 Author Share Posted February 26, 2004 Decided to call the car BOB b/c of the lisence plate. I got the pics of the Brat developed. Couldn't figure out how to post on USMB so I put them in the BRAT group on yahoo. Yahoo Brat group Things are going slow b/c of the rain, YES it does rain in LA. Work has been crazy busy too so there is no time to monkey wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedBrat Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Good looking rig! I am also calif based (up north in Dixon) and have yet to see a rusty Brat. Have seen some rusty wagons that are obvious transplants from the rust belt! Welcome to the Brat Society - See photos of mine in the photo section of USMB.net under Red Brat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 that's a nice score.. even though you have some things to fix, you scored rear seats and a brushguard without even trying. congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Dixon! I'm from Woodland! Small world! -Dok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbs53 Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 '82's are the best. Wierd, but cool. Tough find on a lot of stuff but worth the effort. Not that many around, but if it was me, and it might be, I would look at PK's on the bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 i had an 82 with the third eye, dual range ea81. it was faster than any of my ea82 cars. but it rusted out where skip said, and the rear suspension finaly came through the bed(minnesota). and even with the 4 speed, it would go 80+ for the 900 mile trip to texas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted March 5, 2004 Author Share Posted March 5, 2004 more pics. link Wheels installed and fender fixed. Plan to paint the re-paint the wheels white. Any tips on how to do this? I tried to look in the "how to keep your soob alive" book for wiring schematics for the fuel and temp gauge but they didn't have anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonehuntn Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 Get alloys.... much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted March 10, 2004 Author Share Posted March 10, 2004 Ok... so I think I scored an entire 86 Gl drivetrain/suspension etc. It's a EA82t w/the 5sp d/r. I saw the thread that alchemitis put together about engine swaps. Very helpful. Here are some questions: 1) Would it be a good idea to do the suspension lift at the same time as the engine swap or should I wait a bit. 2) I heard from a friend who rallys that you can bead weld your chassis for increased stiffness. Is that a good idea to do while the engine is out? 3) Since the engine it out, what other things should I do? 4) Anyone want to come to Los Angeles and help with an engine swap? Will be offering a BBQ and the old EA81 engine and 4 sp tranny to whoever needs it and comes to help 5) With a heartier engine, what other mods can be done? Thanks for your attention and input BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Keep the EA81 - you can get more power from it more easily than an EA82. Also no timing belts... Use the 5 speed D/R with the EA81. Deck the heads, get a delta cam from WA, and put on a weber. Easily more power than an EA82T, and a LOT less trouble to do it. Figureing out the wireing harness, and trying to plumb in a turbo is a lot more work than rebuilding an engine with a bigger cam, and decked heads.... ask Qman for details on the engine - he's running one that's about 150 HP or so.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted April 19, 2004 Author Share Posted April 19, 2004 So I tackled a ton of problems yesterday Got the Speedo and back up lights working. Re-wired the radio to stop draining the battery. I poured some oil sealant to try and stop a minor valve cover gasket leak and poured in half a bottle of Duralube. (mmm... purrs like a kitten) So here is what I need help with. 1) I can't get the gas gauge/temp gauge to read accurately. I am not sure if the sensors are messed up or if the gauge is messed up. I tried to complete the circuit at the gas tank sensor with a wire to the pos terminal on the battery but it threw a spark and it freaked me out. (I may be a rookie wrencher, but I do know that spark + gas tank = KABOOM.) So what are some ways to isolate the problem. The gas gauge does go up when you key in. But with a full tank it doesn't read more than 1/2 full at most. The temp gauge barely rises above the first notch. 2) Defrost vents not working. The fan is blowing strong, and all of the other settings are working. But there is no flow going to the vents at the windshield. I guess another thing is the heater switch is rusted out. Should I just remove the entire heat and save some weight? Thanks BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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