Turbone Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 Thanks for the offer Dave, but I had a spare set already. They will probably be coming off again in several months......I have plans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 Rob, Awesome finally dumped the ea82..looking good so far only seen that kinda camshaft damage in a hit car.. Lol my conversion is slower than Russ right now lol But I'm gonna b a couple steps behind suberdave..his will b an sti l-series wagon mine will b a jdm wrx l-series wagon (but with more rust).. Anyway it looks good, keep us posted Kaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 Rob,Awesome finally dumped the ea82..looking good so far only seen that kinda camshaft damage in a hit car.. Lol my conversion is slower than Russ right now lol But I'm gonna b a couple steps behind suberdave..his will b an sti l-series wagon mine will b a jdm wrx l-series wagon (but with more rust).. Anyway it looks good, keep us posted Kaz Funny Kaz:lol: My swap won't be done until my "extras" are on the car. EJ22T + lots of machine work + Wiseco pistons + Eagle rods + STi crank + EJ20K heads w/ lots more machine work + ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 21, 2010 Author Share Posted June 21, 2010 Back on the road again This time it feels much better, but I still have the high idle issue. Who can tell me where the reed switch is on the inst panel? I cant find anything in my 86 FSM, I need something newer. Heres a few pics of the work I did this round. Stripped the intake and cleaned it Cut off the heatshields around the headers. Had to on one side, just to get the nuts off the head Cut off the mounting points for them, ground them down and sprayed with hi temp paint. Almost ready Also had a broken engine mount, got that fixed. A lot of you know I'm pretty anal about cleaning stuff, I've gone thru several wire wheels using my cordless drill. I just bought a new one, this time from Home Depot. The sucker was stiffer than a .......... you know. It kept grabbing on edges and getting loose, a few times raking my arm. I ended up making a gauntlet out of a jean pantleg and duct taping it to my arm. But it doesnt work if you dont wear it Also had a couple of issues when I went to start it. It wasnt starting so I pulled the plugs to check for fuel. Number one plug looked like this I gapped them and put them in after the heads were on, so I have no idea how it happened :-\ Then I wasnt getting any fuel. Tracked that down to nothing in the tank:rolleyes: The gauge showed 1/4 tank, so thats another one that made me scratch my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Very nice!! I love how much time you take to clean, I'm the same way. So how does she go?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 (edited) wiring diagram for an EA82 instrument cluster. this is how I've gotten it in the past: http://numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf Edited June 22, 2010 by Turbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 wiring diagram for an EA82 instrument cluster. this is how I've gotten it in the past:http://numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf Thanks Chux, I had looked at that diagram in the FSM, but I couldnt read the small print. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 Well, I'm still having a problem with the high idle. I hooked up the VSS and it didnt make any difference. I'm thinking of changing out the ECU tomorrow and see if that works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 I don't mean to be insulting at all, but maybe the high idle is something simple? Mine was fixed simply by loosening the throttle cable and grounding the AT/MT identification pin. Now it's at 7-800 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 Throttle cable is adjusted correctly. But looking at the pin outs for the ECU, all I see are AT inhibitor switch and the neutral safety switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 From Numbchux write-up for a '92, it's going to be B48 pin 20 for both turbo and NA. Hope that helps...if memory serves, my idle was about 2K, so it was either that or the cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 (edited) Hmmm, I'll check it out. My print out is for a 90 and it shows no connection for that pin. I checked the #20 ECU pin and it didnt even have a wire in the plug. The ECU and harness are from a 92 MT SS Legacy. I checked all the grounds from the ECU and its all good. This is getting frustrating :-\ Edited June 23, 2010 by Turbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 Well, I'm not getting far in my troubleshooting. I hooked up my CEL light and it wont work. As in no power from the ECU Unhooked the IAC and it will idle at 2k steady, instead of rising to 2.5k and dropping when I hit the throttle. I may have to tear apart this stupid harness to find out whats wrong :-\ Its all Caboob's fault......he jinxed me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Sucker! You made fun of me for not getting on the ball and getting mine finished:lol: Karma's a b**** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Sucker! You made fun of me for not getting on the ball and getting mine finished:lol: Karma's a b**** Yeah, how many miles do you have on yours skippy? At least I can drive it, albeit with a high idle. Other than that, it runs like a champ. Oh, my mpg went to h e l l tho Only running 8lbs, going to keep it there too. And Russ, I'll still make fun of you, karma be damned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 I believe, un-plugging the IAC should cause it to quit. if the valve is closed, and the throttle plate is closed.....engine should die. I think . Is your cable tight? possibly too tight? CEL gets a ground from the ECU, not power. maybe you know that and just typed it backwards, but thought I'd make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 I believe, un-plugging the IAC should cause it to quit. if the valve is closed, and the throttle plate is closed.....engine should die. I think . Is your cable tight? possibly too tight? CEL gets a ground from the ECU, not power. maybe you know that and just typed it backwards, but thought I'd make sure. The cable is adjusted correctly (for the 3rd time) and the car doesnt die when I pull the IAC plug. When I have the test plugs connected, shouldnt I have power to the CEL light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 Power comes from somewhere else like the rest of the dash lights. The cel wire gives it a ground. Like old fashioned house wiring where the switch was neutral and your bulb is always hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 29, 2010 Author Share Posted June 29, 2010 (edited) Ok, finally getting some where. First off, the ECS light is different than the Engine/Ign light on the dash. Once I hooked up the signal wire from the ECU to the correct EA harness wire(which I had to trace from the board on the dash), I got a code, hura! Popped out a 24 code, the IAC..........go figure Capt r came by today and we did a quick test on his IAC. We unplugged it and the car idle decreased but didnt die, basically what mine did. I tested the power to my IAC and its good, 11v+ The ohms at the IAC was 10.5 when it was supposed to be 9, so I'm swapping it out for another one that tested at 9ohms. Hopefully this will do the trick (fingers/toes crossed) Edited June 29, 2010 by Turbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 I replaced the top electrical unit on the IAC and it helped some, but it still throws a code. But its running better and I can keep the idle down with the occasional blip of the throttle. But you know what happens when you fix one problem? Yeah, something else rears its ugly head This one isnt engine related (almost wish it was) but drivetrain. I was hoping it would last a little longer than it did, but I'm never easy on my equipment. The front diff went out on me today on my home from a Wed night meet. I was still about 4mi from home, a lot of it uphill. When it went crunch, I pulled over to listen to it. Clutch in, clutch out.......lots of noise :-\ It even locked up on me when I tried rolling forward and reverse. About the 7th time of letting out the clutch it rolled but still rattled, but I decided to take a chance. Made it all the way home, only stopping once at a stop sign. Now I get to do a tranny swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 That SUCKS. I wonder if the harness has an issue related to the IAC problem? *ducks* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 (edited) Now you know how I feel after getting all that swap work... sort of done, I suppose, and I find a blown head. Its fixed now (as of today) but still has the same problems. But now it throws codes like a ************************** on crack! Edited July 1, 2010 by Yo'J crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Well, shot a short vid today after pulling it under my canopy :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomcrooner Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Wow man, sorry about the trans, that is my brothers biggest fear, he has an rx and is planning a turbo 2.2 swap. Those tranis are hard to find. Hey, on a side note, does your ecm have a built in map sensor? Mine does, which I thought would be for a turbo model, but my brother has a turbo 1.8 and a turbo 2.2 and neither one has a map sensor. I have both a map and a maf, but didn't plug in the map until today after my bro suggested unplugging it to see if it helped my surge and idle issues. I took it for a test drive and it drove smooth for the first time, took off smooth and didn't surge at cruise speed (60-65). More test driving to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 6, 2010 Author Share Posted July 6, 2010 I dont think mine does, its a 92. What year is yours, if you know? Got the bad trans out today, now I need a couple days break The replacement is getting a scrubbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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