TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 man, all this tranny talk.... Does it make you want to come out of the closest? I'll look up the trans (I mean pants) in my Haynes and see what I see as far as Solenoids go. This kinda blows, Why couldn't it do this last month when it was nice out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 I wonder, for the past few days, its been taking a little longer to engage into reverse then before. Could this be a sign of a clogging valve? And now it has clogged most of the way only allowing a very slight grab? Dunno if I should waste the time running Trans-Tune in it then changing out the ATF, I need a slightly better confirmation that this is a more serious issue then just a clogged valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 This kinda blows, Why couldn't it do this last month when it was nice out? come on now. you should know better... nothing works that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 come on now. you should know better... nothing works that way. Ha! Yeah. a 15 y.o old timing will withstand countless redline shifts in summer, but one day in winter all you want to do is go to the gas station, and the fricken thing blows (Not a true story, just an exaggeration obviously) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 So here is something to chew on, a few days ago, when we had a big snow, I notice that it took a little bit for the rear diff to engage, so basically I'd take off in FWD, then it kicked into AWD. Is this a sign of a damaged clutch pack? I didn't have an binding that I could tell. Does anyone think this could somehow be related to the slipping Reverse? I have to rev it up to like 4000k for it to move a little. When I did get it to grab in reverse, it kept slipping. But forward gears seem to work fine. I am running Trans-tune through it with no result. Also, I might add, when I first tried to put it into reverse today, the shifter was very hard, and once I got it in reverse, the engine stalled (Like there was a load on it) What would cause this? Only did it once so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 I need to somehow find a cheep 5spd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I need to somehow find a cheep 5spd. You need a bunch more than just the transmission for that swap. I have one in Maine.... come get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 You need a bunch more than just the transmission for that swap.I have one in Maine.... come get it I know, I need pedel box, ECU, Matching diff, Crossmember. Been there, see it all. Lol, I always wanted to see the easy coast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I know, I need pedel box, ECU, Matching diff, Crossmember. Been there, see it all. Lol, I always wanted to see the easy coast You don't NEED an ECU. It will work with the automatic one. I've used auto in a manual car, and manual in an auto car. The tuning is slightly different, but it'll work just fine. I have everything besides pedal box and driveshaft for the swap.... go on a road trip. haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I wonder, for the past few days, its been taking a little longer to engage into reverse then before... So here is something to chew on, a few days ago, when we had a big snow, I notice that it took a little bit for the rear diff to engage, so basically I'd take off in FWD, then it kicked into AWD. Is this a sign of a damaged clutch pack? Also, I might add, when I first tried to put it into reverse today, the shifter was very hard, and once I got it in reverse, the engine stalled (Like there was a load on it) What would cause this? This is just the Subaru's way of letting you know how it feels about your recent Landcruiser talk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Have you tried changing the fluid and filter yet? That cleared mine up, it had hard shifting, occasional torque bind, occasional not RWD, etc. New fluid made it much happier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 I just ran almost 1 pint of Trans-Tune through it, with no result. I was going to change the ATF/Filter if it would have shown my some sign of getting better, but now I dunno. I don't want to waste $35 on ATF if that is not the issue. I don't have hard shifting though, its smooth as a babys rump roast in all forward gears, just reverse does not work when warm, if it does work, it slips out when you put torque on it (Unless you rev it up to 4000rpm, then it starts to grab a little) I am also not going lay on the grown in 0 Deg F. weather and drop the pan. Guess its going to sit for a little while till I figure out if I'm going to strip it or fix it. MilesFox has Subarus falling out his rump roast from time to time, throw some my way please.... Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 That's weird about reverse. Try tightening the reverse band. I know you can tighten the forward ones from the top (without taking apart the transmission any). But not sure about reverse. It's a tedious process that if you mess it up your transmission falls apart inside... But it made mine work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 That's weird about reverse. Try tightening the reverse band. I know you can tighten the forward ones from the top (without taking apart the transmission any). But not sure about reverse. It's a tedious process that if you mess it up your transmission falls apart inside... But it made mine work better. Anyone have anymore info on this? Maybe a picture of a exploided diagram? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Anyone have anymore info on this? Maybe a picture of a exploided diagram? The FSM details band adjustment pretty well, better than I can explain. I just followed the diag. flow chart step by step, and adjusted it accordingly. I didn't check to see if it detailed reverse as mine worked properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 (edited) Here we go! Just wish I could read the text. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakeband.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakebandadj.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Edited January 19, 2012 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 You can download the FSM and see it all there. That's what I have. I think there's a post about it in the USRM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 You can download the FSM and see it all there. That's what I have. I think there's a post about it in the USRM. Do you have a linky for such an FSM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) I am thinking TW10 may have just bought the farm on this one. From what Jon (Jboymechanic) has read from his FSM, this 4EAT only has one band (Band Brake?) Although I haven't experienced any of the issues the FSM relates to band failure, so I am still a little puzzled. It drives so F'ing nice forwards, WHY DON'T YOU DRIVE AS NICE IN REVERSE!!?? Anyway, So, my options for this vehicle are: 1. Replace 4EAT 4.11 with another 4EAT 4.11 (Time and Money) 2. Swap 5spd in place of 4EAT, get 4.44 diffs and all related 5spd swap BS (Lots more Time and Money) 3. Strip car of everything, junk shell, sell off as much as I can and buy another Subaru(Less Time, Equal Money, More Dicking around) 4. Junk all 3 of my vehicles, move to a secluded island and hang my self. (More Time, Less Money, Less Fun) Anyone? Bueller, Bueller? Edited January 20, 2012 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Why would you need 4.44 diffs for a 5speed swap?! The only 5speed with 4.44 diffs is the forester XT box. You're not going to find one of those cheap, nor do you really want that. Most transmissions are 4.11, a lot are 3.90, but the majority in your year range are going to be 4.11. Which is good for you, you don't need to deal with the rear end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Why would you need 4.44 diffs for a 5speed swap?!The only 5speed with 4.44 diffs is the forester XT box. You're not going to find one of those cheap, nor do you really want that. Most transmissions are 4.11, a lot are 3.90, but the majority in your year range are going to be 4.11. Which is good for you, you don't need to deal with the rear end. Because, if I am going to go through the hassle of pulling the motor/trans, I might as well do what I've been wanting to do, and that is convert the Legacy to a 5spd 4.44 I have access to 4.44 Diffs from '90s 4EAT Outbacks, I also have access to an AWD 5spd 90s Legacy. That was the plan someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Because, if I am going to go through the hassle of pulling the motor/trans, I might as well do what I've been wanting to do, and that is convert the Legacy to a 5spd 4.44 I have access to 4.44 Diffs from '90s 4EAT Outbacks, I also have access to an AWD 5spd 90s Legacy. That was the plan someday. What I'm saying is, your only option for a 4.44 5speed is a Forester XT transmission. Those are VERY expensive. Or a custom setup, which is also doable. But highway is gonna suck without the shorter 5th gear, highway sucks anyway on the FXT box. I have a friend who put one in an RS. So I know about the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 So why couldn't I take the 4.44 front diff from a '98 Outback 4EAT, and use that with a '96 5spd? I assume it would bolt right up, yeah? I haven't look to closely at what it really takes to swap front diffs from trans to trans (Just saying) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 That wouldn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 The 4:11's I have now in my legacy are as short as I'd ever want on the street, I don't have large tires on it or anything, but with the gearing I have now I could run something much larger and still be fine. Right now it's about 3600 rpm at 70ish mph (speedo is a couple mph fast) of course because of my defining exhaust it sounds like it's turing a lot more than that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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