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Turn key: click. Turn key: click. New starter, battery, cables. Still no start ???


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33 replies to this topic

#1 lastchance

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 08:43 PM

1984 turbo wagon, automatic.

Symptoms/observations:

  • When the key is turned, I can hear the starter click but it won't start. It's a loud click but not accompanied by any other sound.
  • Tried running a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the starter post/connection to rule out connections. Still a no-go.
  • Just installed a new (remanufactured) starter, (brand new) battery and (brand new) cables
  • Double-checked all the grounds, fuses and any applicable connections
  • Plenty of juice (headlights, radio, alarm all work perfectly fine)
  • Tried to jump-start it with our other car, still the same symptoms
  • No corrosion or loose connections

Here's the starter I bought:
http://shop.advancea...MS_539235527___

What are the chances the starter is bad or even the wrong one? Should I just pull it out and have Advance (where I bought it) test it for me?

Thanks guys.

#2 VaporTrail

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 08:55 PM

neutral safety switch under the shifter console...

and there just happens to be one on EBay right now too...

http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories

to test out if that's it, turn the key to run. make sure car is in park, and touch 12V to the starter solenoid. if it starts, release, and you've found the problem....

#3 ruparts

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 09:22 PM

1984 turbo wagon, automatic.

Symptoms/observations:

  • When the key is turned, I can hear the starter click but it won't start. It's a loud click but not accompanied by any other sound.
  • Tried running a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the starter post/connection to rule out connections. Still a no-go.
  • Just installed a new (remanufactured) starter, (brand new) battery and (brand new) cables
  • Double-checked all the grounds, fuses and any applicable connections
  • Plenty of juice (headlights, radio, alarm all work perfectly fine)
  • Tried to jump-start it with our other car, still the same symptoms
  • No corrosion or loose connections
Here's the starter I bought:
http://shop.advancea...MS_539235527___

What are the chances the starter is bad or even the wrong one? Should I just pull it out and have Advance (where I bought it) test it for me?

Thanks guys.

Hi,
did you put the small wire that just plugs on back? try moving the shifter back and forth a bit ( still in park position) while trying to start it with the key,, try the same thing in neutral,, if it starts the NS switch needs adjusted.

#4 lastchance

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 11:04 PM

Hi,
did you put the small wire that just plugs on back? try moving the shifter back and forth a bit ( still in park position) while trying to start it with the key,, try the same thing in neutral,, if it starts the NS switch needs adjusted.


Yeah, I plugged the small wire/plug back onto the starter. I was out there earlier moving it from park to neutral, pulling the e-brake, putting the e-brake down, etc. None of it made a difference. I'll try messing with the shifter like you said, hopefully it's something easy as that.

neutral safety switch under the shifter console...

and there just happens to be one on EBay right now too...

http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories

to test out if that's it, turn the key to run. make sure car is in park, and touch 12V to the starter solenoid. if it starts, release, and you've found the problem....


I tried the 12v to the starter solenoid trick/test and the car still wouldn't start. :confused:

Just as a side note, before buying the new starter the old one was dying for like 6 months, I'd just whack it with a hammer when it wouldn't start to get it going... Finally after doing that forever I decided to buy the new starter... And that's where I'm at today, a new starter, battery and cables but still a non-starting Subie. :(

#5 ruparts

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 11:15 PM

Yeah, I plugged the small wire/plug back onto the starter. I was out there earlier moving it from park to neutral, pulling the e-brake, putting the e-brake down, etc. None of it made a difference. I'll try messing with the shifter like you said, hopefully it's something easy as that.



I tried the 12v to the starter solenoid trick/test and the car still wouldn't start. :confused:

Just as a side note, before buying the new starter the old one was dying for like 6 months, I'd just whack it with a hammer when it wouldn't start to get it going... Finally after doing that forever I decided to buy the new starter... And that's where I'm at today, a new starter, battery and cables but still a non-starting Subie. :(


Hi ,
you might check the ign switch, take the lower half of the cover off and the electric section of the switch is right there. sometimes the attaching screws are loose, sometimes the switch is going bad, the plastic input notch gets worn and the key section doesn't turn it completely, the inside contacts can go bad. the symptoms are alike , is like you hit on the starter but it maybe was just a coincidence the switch caught again at that time.

#6 lastchance

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 11:23 PM

Sounds good, I will dig around out there tomorrow and let you guys know. I'm also taking the starter to Advance to have them test it, just in case.

#7 True2Blue

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 11:56 PM

hey bud ill take a vid of my setup to show you whats wrong... my ign switch has been modified to start with a button so the key turns everything on but when you go to start it just clicks.. the click ur hearing is a real quick connection happening in the switch then it cant carry the current and shuts off.. get a new switch its the easiest fit possible

check my vid.. i turned the key and it shut everything off and clicked



#8 lastchance

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Posted 26 April 2010 - 11:19 AM

***FIXED***

The Subie is aliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive!

Took the starter into Advance to have them test it against another starter: it was fine, tested exactly where it should. The parts guy gave me the other (more expensive!!!) starter to take home to "try", after installing it my car started RIGHT up, first try and began idling perfectly... Kinda funny since it's not been ran for almost a month. :lol:

So, I either installed it wrong the first time and got a more expensive starter for my own error or the first starter though it yielded proper test numbers was somehow faulty.

Thanks again for the help guys!

#9 Suba9792

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Posted 26 April 2010 - 01:15 PM

probably had a bad selenoid on the starter, seen it happen many times with chevys

#10 mdjdc

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Posted 26 April 2010 - 02:58 PM

Does your car have a security system on it? If it does, then you need to deactivate it after attaching a new battery. I think you lucked out when you reconnected the battery the second time and had the key in the run position. That is a work around for those of us that do not have a remote.

Glad you got it started.

#11 lastchance

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 04:20 PM

Does your car have a security system on it? If it does, then you need to deactivate it after attaching a new battery. I think you lucked out when you reconnected the battery the second time and had the key in the run position. That is a work around for those of us that do not have a remote.

Glad you got it started.


it does have a security system and this last time it wouldn't start i figured it could be the automatic kill switch after changing the battery, cables and starter. i pulled the horn, switch and wiring out for the alarm just to be sure. thanks for the heads up, though!

probably had a bad selenoid on the starter, seen it happen many times with chevys



it's dead again. had it at a buddy's shop the other day after it leaving me stranded. i've driven the thing 5-6 times TOPS since i "fixed" it before just 2 months ago. dudes at the shop say they think the solenoid is bad again or there's some faulty wiring because they could do the positive-jumper wire-solenoid trick.

i suppose taking the thing back to advance auto is the next step. :-\

#12 Splinter

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 06:07 PM

Ignition switch. My brat does this too, and I know it's not the starter.

Sometimes if you hold it in the 'start' position for like 5-6 seconds after it clicks it'll suddenly fire up.

#13 lastchance

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 06:12 PM

i have to go pick it up tonight and will see if that's the problem... i'd be pleased if it were as easy as an ignition switch.

#14 Cougar

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 01:19 PM

I tried the 12v to the starter solenoid trick/test and the car still wouldn't start. :confused:

Just as a side note, before buying the new starter the old one was dying for like 6 months, I'd just whack it with a hammer when it wouldn't start to get it going... Finally after doing that forever I decided to buy the new starter... And that's where I'm at today, a new starter, battery and cables but still a non-starting Subie. :(


If you manually applied 12 volts to the solenoid lead of the new starter after replacing the main positive and negative battery leads along with the battery then still had trouble cranking the engine, I can only think of a couple more possible trouble issues. Either the engine is locked up or the main battery ground connection to the engine has a problem.

#15 lastchance

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 01:23 PM

If you manually applied 12 volts to the solenoid lead of the new starter after replacing the main positive and negative battery leads along with the battery then still had trouble cranking the engine, I can only think of a couple more possible trouble issues. Either the engine is locked up or the main battery ground connection to the engine has a problem.


i hate to admit it, but i was doing it wrong. without going into further details i was basically trying to blow the battery up by running a jumper from the (+) on the battery to the (+) on the starter, not from the (+) on the battery to the small solenoid spade connector.

yep, i'm dumb.

in other news; i went to pick the car up from the shop this morning and it started right up first try like it was NEVER having problems. :-\:-\:-\:-\

#16 Cougar

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 09:47 AM

If you are talking about running the jumper to the starter motor itself and bypassing the solenoid that isn't really a problem though the starter would not engage to the flywheel that way. Using a jumper cable to bypass the main lead to the solenoid is done to check for a main cable problem along with applying 12 volts to the solenoid to check that operation.

The bad thing to do is connect opposite polarity to the battery. You didn't that, as others have.

Edited by Cougar, 05 July 2010 - 09:49 AM.


#17 lastchance

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 10:46 AM

If you are talking about running the jumper to the starter motor itself and bypassing the solenoid that isn't really a problem though the starter would not engage to the flywheel that way. Using a jumper cable to bypass the main lead to the solenoid is done to check for a main cable problem along with applying 12 volts to the solenoid to check that operation.

The bad thing to do is connect opposite polarity to the battery. You didn't that, as others have.


ok, i might be missing something...

the guys at the shop said they could get it started by running a jumper wire from the (+) battery terminal to the solenoid spade connector (the connector on the starter with the one small single wire).

does that single out the starter being faulty because it actually starts the car? should i be trying to track down some chewed up wiring? do you think it could be the ignition switch as someone else mentioned?

#18 Cougar

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 12:53 PM

Yes, in that case the trouble is with the ignition power to the solenoid somehow. It could be the connector under the steering column or possibly the inhibit switch for the transmission. But you tried the various tricks for that already I think so the connector in the dash is your best bet. Check for signs of burning on the connector.

Edited by Cougar, 09 July 2010 - 09:58 PM.


#19 lastchance

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 01:28 PM

Yes, in that case the trouble is with the ignition power to the solenoid somehow. It could be the connector under the steering column or possibly the inhibit switch for the transmission. But you tried the various tricks for that already I think so the connector in the dash is your best bet. Checked for signs of burning on the connector.


alright. i will get out and there and mess with it this week. thanks for the help.

#20 jbm579

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Posted 26 August 2010 - 04:30 PM

I am having a similar issue with my 1991 Loyale-recently we installed a new starter and the car still wouldn't start, so then we noticed that the black fusible link was broken and luckily we had access to a replacement and switched that out. In March of this year I installed a new ignition switch believing this was the problem.

After switching out the black link--The car then started perfectly, I ran it for about a week or so perhaps maybe 100 miles, and yesterday I went to start it and it won't turn over. I have all of the dash lights come on, and hear the clicking of the fuel pump relay, however the car fails to start. We have gone around and around with these issues for almost a year now, the car has low miles about 80,000, yet the age seems to be its downfall. So far the car has a new battery, a new alternator, a replaced starter (however not new), a replaced fusible link (black), a new ignition switch, new battery cables, you name it-the part is probably relatively new.

Occasionally the car can be started by inserting a long screwdriver down into the gears of the flywheel and rotate the gear clockwise a notch or two and it seems the car tends to start right up. (however this isn't consistent nor is it practical for me to have to rig in order to drive and feel secure the car will start every time I shut the car down)

Where should we proceed next? I rely on the car for winter driving and would like to know this issue has been corrected by the first snowfall. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

#21 jbm579

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Posted 26 August 2010 - 04:31 PM

PS: I am sorry I had nothing to add to your post-it seems we are experiencing similar issues/malfunctions with our Subaru's.

#22 Gloyale

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Posted 27 August 2010 - 11:29 AM

Install a relay

Power from battery

Triggered by original solenoid wire

done.

#23 bratman2

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Posted 27 August 2010 - 09:51 PM

Went through the same thing several years ago with my Brat. Sometimes fire right up and sometimes nothing but a click. Bought a new starter only to have the same problem. Installed new battery cables and cleaned up the grounds only to have it reappear several days later. Last I ran new wire to the starter and ignition and that cures it that time. Then earlier this year it started again! At first I though it was the starter clicking but the last time it did it I realized the click actually came from the steering column or it was the starter clicking the first few times from low voltage coming from the switch. Replaced the electrical side of the switch and it is cured again. Several things to look at or try! Electrical problems are a pain in the butt. Could you get someone to check the voltage at the starter leads with a volt meter when you try starting it? Good luck and hope you both sort it out.

#24 rain_man_rich

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 12:30 AM

lastchance,

I know it's been a while since this thread was active. I'm having similiar issues and if you're still out there, did you ever get this fixed?

#25 bigjimd

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Posted 04 June 2011 - 06:38 AM

I had the same problem with my 91 Toyota pickup. Tried 2 new starters, new contacts, and a lot of fussin. Then I found this trick. Been over 2 years now and always starts. Go down past the contact replacement part to get to the relay installation. I used an old Volvo diesel glow plug relay from the upulit.
Jim

http://www.4crawler....ml#OtherOptions




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