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W series Toyota trans adaptors


bill hincher
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My project is progressing slowly so Bill's shifter probably is probably in time for me. I just don't know yet what length I need as I want to drop the engine by 2 inches and move back in the chassis. Maybe I can just do with one of the stock W-series shifter locations.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had to build a universal remote shifter that would fit both the W series and R series transmissions, so I used as many existing parts as I coould to hold the cost down

 

remoteshifter57.JPGremoteshifter58.JPG

 

the rotation of the second shaft will be produced from the rotation of the shifter handle while the forward and back motion will be from the handle itself, the reason for that was because I had to have two seperate motion ratio's from the two seperate movements

remoteshifter59.JPGremoteshifter60.JPG

the sideways motion through the 'gate' of the shifter can be adjusted by the hiegth of the two pivot points while the length of the 'throw' can be adjusted by the length of the shift arm

remoteshifter61.JPGremoteshifter62.JPG

here you can see how the rotation to the right and then to the left works through the pivot pionts

remoteshifter63.JPGremoteshifter64.JPG

 

remoteshifter65.JPGremoteshifter66.JPG

 

what you dont see here is how this appies to the length needed for the subaru adaption, well, a u-jiont is attached to the two shafts and the shifter is placed as far back as you want, then two 'drive' shafts are placed between the shifter and the remote controller to provide a front and back motion to one shaft and the rotation of the second shaft

Edited by bill hincher
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Very nice! So I'm assuming the aluminium bit that's in a proto-type looking stage in your pictures will be one of your famous castings and then you will provide the shafts that exit it to interface the u-joints with?

 

I can see an application for this setup on both street and off-road applications and many different generations of Subaru's.... what (if any) model of shifter were you planning to have this interface with? Or are you going to provide the basics and we just buy tubing to build the length rods we need?

 

Also - what about vertical support for longer shafts? I'm not seeing how to anchor it to the body if you had say... 14" of shaft before the shifter... Subaru uses a body mount at the back of their shifters to give them support.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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  • 3 months later...
Is the motor going to clear the frame and steering? It's the reoccurring issue with swapping a Subaru motor in something else.

 

I am amost to that point.Like so close it is ridiculous.I will have family here for the next week, so I'll find out in a week or so :)

FRom measurements it looks like I will need to relocate the ford shock towers, then flatbelly to clear the bottom of the valve covers.

We shall see.

It will get mounted in there.Period.;) Whatever I have to do to make it fit....

Cheers

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After reading the pages where you were dealing with a reverse mounted starter I'm thinking that something like that with a subaru might be pretty neat,because for a RWD/4WD transmission  that rear facing starter does kinda limit how far back the engine can be.In my minds eye there should be enough room to flip the starter on an EJ22. Can anyone with one of the adapter bellhousings see if that might be possible.There is no point in that if the smallish starter interferes with the intake manifold but it might be nice to check out.

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Hi bill,

I'm In awe of your work and just wanted to ask you a few questions if you don't mind.  there are too few with your skills around anymore.  you are doing the buckeye state proud keeping manufacturing alive, a true AMERICAN. 

1. What was your education/career path to allow you to establish such a high level of skill in so many trades?  you seem to be a tool and die machinist, fabricator, engineer, mechanic, and sculptor wrapped into one.

2. have you considered,(or do use) CAD/CAM technology for what you are doing with bellhousings?

3. how do you indicate a complicated rough casting such as a bellhousing for a first cut?

4. how did you calculate/measure for your allowed 1% shrinkage in your casting form, or how did you establish a register for those measurements if that question makes sense? radially from center of crank?

5. how can I learn to do what you do, or find a similar occupation? Currently I am a custom architectural metalwork fabricator but am bored with railings and stairs and interested in getting into more of a custom machining, prototyping sort of career.  have no formal training except my desire to learn. 

thanks for your time,

Jeremy

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