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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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W series Toyota trans adaptors


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575 replies to this topic

#51 mellow65

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 02:38 PM

will this be a " one off " or do you plan on building and selling more?


he does full casts. he makes beautiful pieces of work, something that really should be hung on a wall.

but to quote him when someone asked if he was going to sell them

kinda the idea, yea, once I get done building them:)

depending on the throw out bearing the cost should be in the mid $300.00 range

the design hopes to use all Sub hardware , like clutch fork, pivot ball and slave cylinder flywheel. starter and pressure plate with just a Toyota disc to finish the build



#52 bill hincher

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Posted 15 August 2010 - 09:12 AM

the Toyota bearing from the update was a good selection but it presented some problems with depth, the Toyota throw out collar was too short to support this bearings use, so I will have to build a throw out bearing holder and find a bearing with a larger inner diameter, its no big deal, I build them for my R 154 /Mits combination already

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#53 Yo'J

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 12:55 AM

:popcorn: This is way better than reality tv!

#54 Florin1

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 01:49 AM

:eek: Great work man!! I'm subscribing. This could be awesome for my drift subaru!

#55 kanurys

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 05:23 PM

I love it. When we go into recession, all I want to do is go hang out in my shop, too. Excellent fab work, by the way.

#56 glh1975

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 10:26 PM

This is a great idea.I was just wondering how to stick a EJ22 in a 1976 Celica.

#57 mellow65

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Posted 18 September 2010 - 01:45 PM

any updates good or bad.

#58 bill hincher

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Posted 20 September 2010 - 08:30 PM

I found the throw out bearing and I had the throw out bearing body casted and machined , so its all good, while I was waiting for the throw out body , I got hooked on the T 5 Ford trans for the Mits last week and I couldnt put it down
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everytime I make a change, I put it back int the mill and make sure its square
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I keep testing the centers and the depth of the input shaft
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This housing can be ordered with left or right side slave cylinders

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I have about 30 more hours of detail to put into it, so thats enough of the T 5 for now, I will be building a housing for New Zealand tomorow and be back on the Sub mid week, I will post pics on it Wensday

#59 mellow65

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 12:02 PM

oh damn you bill, this t5 option alone makes me almost makes me want to scrap my subaru motor idea for my project and go to a mitsu motor. :grin:

:slobber::slobber::slobber:turbo 4g63 with dog boxed t5:slobber::slobber::slobber:

once again bill, beautiful work. :)

#60 monstaru

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Posted 21 September 2010 - 10:10 PM

i can't wait for this.......cheers, brain

#61 bill hincher

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 07:05 PM

I hate to admit it but I had misjudged the depth of the input shaft so I had to cut and instal spacers on the inside of the housing I built

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the hieght of the throw out bearing pivot ball had to be adjusted
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then I milled off the backside of the bellhousing to adjust to the length of the input shaft
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then the inner diameter was trimmed to fit both the W series and the R series Toyota transmissions
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then the whole thing is reassembled to check clearances
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now the proper input shaft legth is achieved
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now the clutch fork is the proper depth to control the throw out bearing motion
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with the clutch assembled I found the depth required for the throw out bearing body
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Dan at compitition clutch has been very helpful and found the proper throw out bearing to complete this project without buying custom clutch parts, this is the proper throw out bearing but I needed to build the holder it could ride on. I had my own throw out bearing collar casted for this project so I can cut the required depth and adjust the throw out bearing into the proper place to take advantage of the motion of the clutch fork co-ordinaded with the hieght of the pivot ball attached to the back wall of the bellhousing
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#62 bill hincher

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 07:01 PM

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I can make the fork go through its motion and it works as smooth as silk
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Edited by bill hincher, 27 September 2010 - 07:07 PM.


#63 mellow65

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 07:39 PM

looking awesome bill, keep up the work.

#64 thatswhatshesaid

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 04:31 PM

looking awesome bill, keep up the work.


Agreed. We're all excited to see the result here.

#65 WRX2FFU

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 05:58 PM

Super skills!

Something like this sure would make my THM350 bolting to an EG33 project go a lot easier! Granted I am on a budget of way less than 5k...

If I don't count my hours I got about $50 in material. LOL!

Keep up the awesome work!

#66 Drunkinchef

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 11:02 AM

I'm soo down for buying one of these when you finally finish! Subscribed!

#67 kiwi subbie

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 01:55 PM

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Its intresting to see you are using a 6 Jaw chuck.
What are the reasons of using one compaired to using a 3 or 4 Jaw chuck?
Do all the Jaws move together at once?
Thanks.

#68 bill hincher

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 01:51 PM

Its intresting to see you are using a 6 Jaw chuck.
What are the reasons of using one compaired to using a 3 or 4 Jaw chuck?
Do all the Jaws move together at once?
Thanks.


Its the lathe I choose to use,
I use a three jaw on my finishing lathe and I have a 4 jaw for this lathe for square pieces

#69 lostinthe202

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Posted 10 October 2010 - 10:34 PM

Its intresting to see you are using a 6 Jaw chuck.
What are the reasons of using one compaired to using a 3 or 4 Jaw chuck?
Do all the Jaws move together at once?
Thanks.



6 jaw chucks are great for holding hollow stuff where there is a danger of distorting it with the clamping force of the chuck. Every 6 jaw I've encountered had jaws that moved concentrically as opposed to independent movement like most 4 jaws.

6 jaws also tend to have better repeatability, meaning they have a better chance of the work staying concentric if it has to be pulled out and put back into the chuck.

#70 kiwi subbie

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Posted 12 October 2010 - 03:55 AM

6 jaw chucks are great for holding hollow stuff where there is a danger of distorting it with the clamping force of the chuck. Every 6 jaw I've encountered had jaws that moved concentrically as opposed to independent movement like most 4 jaws.

6 jaws also tend to have better repeatability, meaning they have a better chance of the work staying concentric if it has to be pulled out and put back into the chuck.


Thanks :)

#71 WoodsWagon

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 05:58 AM

then the inner diameter was trimmed to fit both the W series and the R series Toyota transmissions

Would that include the R150f used in V6 4x4 tacomas? I've beaten the piss out of mine with a supercharged 3.4 and it's held up great. The R150f has a shorter input than the R154 in the supras, would that not match with the depth setting of your bellhousing?

#72 bill hincher

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 08:16 AM

The R 150's 2wd are found on all the toyota V 6 trucks pre 86
The R 151 was used on the turbo 4 cyl Toyota truck and 86-87 and v-6 toyota trucks after 87
they sell for about 3-500 bucks on car-part.com and there are plenty of
them
The input shafts are shorter then the R 154, and they are different before and after 86, but all I have to do is change how the bellhousing is built and then cut the back plate for which ever trans is ordered
Its all I been working on the last couple weeks, I finished out the dual bolt pattern for the trans side so it accepts both the w 55/59 trans or the R 151 or 150 trans

1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
R150 - 3.83 2.062 1.436 1.00 0.838
R151 - 4.31 3.32 1.52 1.00 0.83
R154 - 3.25 1.95 1.30 1.00 0.75

This is another bellhousing I am building for the Mitsubishi 4cyl narrow block that will do the same job
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I am building 3 bellhousings right now, I want to be completed in a couple weeks
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I liked how the bolt holes lined up in the T 5 project so well, I went back and did it to this model too
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I spent a great deal of time on wall thickness, I wanted to get i as light as possible without sacrificing strength
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these are built to be used on the narrow block first gen, and second gen and EVO 4 through9 its going to be used with the AWD flywheel, I can build it to accept the FWD but its too confusing to have them machined at a outsource if I switch around
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#73 mellow65

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 02:02 PM

:slobber::slobber::slobber::slobber::slobber:

good lord bill i think i need to start making a shopping list of bell housings. :grin:

#74 bill hincher

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 04:26 AM

I am building 3 bellhousings right now, I want to be completed in a couple of weeks before I need to do the tax bookeeping at the end of the year
all the planning and designing is over, now its just old fashioned sanding
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sand and fill sand and fill
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#75 mellow65

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 01:00 PM

I am building 3 bellhousings right now



i'm hoping one will be our lonely little subaru housing. :banana:

but really, what are the three you are finishing up, i'm starting to make my christmas wish list. :grin:




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