Welcome to the USMB.
I added a link for the video and moved your thread over to the transplant forum. It may get some additional comments here.
Thanks, sorry about that. Just a bit excited to get all the info down! Let's hope so.
If I did the math right, that's about 18-19 mpg. That's not horrible, but I agree, that's not great for how light the beetle is.
That's right on. Exactly as you said, not horrible but not great considering the Beetles weight. I have gotten as high as 35mpg on a straight 20 mile highway cruise but that was 4k rpm constant, an ideal way to get great mileage. I have talked to a guy who had an EJ20 in his Beetle who got exceedingly better mileage around town...
tube is probably for the canister purge valve. It's for emissions purposes. You can just plug that tube. Is it this tube?
Actually that isn't it. It's a bigger diameter, proably 10mm/ or 1/4" to 3/8"
and it's directly off the side, I'll take a picture of it.
That pic does raise another question I have. The Suby throttle body has 2 linkages on it...does it matter which one I use and which one is for what?
What are you running for engine management? The stock computer? You need to have knock sensor hooked up. If you are running the stock computer and don't have the knock sensor hooked up, that is probably one of the reasons you're getting poor gas mileage. The ECU will retard timing to avoid any chance of detonation. This will hurt gas mileage and will cause you to lose power.
Do you have the check engine light hooked up? If not, I'd suggest wiring a bulb to that pin on the ECU, and then checking the ECU for stored codes to see what's in there that could be giving you issues. Any more info you can provide about your setup will help in diagnosing.
Stock Subaru ECU with custom wiring harness (basically stripped down to engine managment)
I came across your site by way of a different forum and was just looking over the ECU read out tech article. I'll be hooking up a check engine light asap for diagnostics.
The knock sensor would be located behind the intake on the drivers side of the engine in front of the intake right? I'll have to double check if it's hooked up, I know I have an extra wire in my harness that isn't hooked up...
Is it sticker on the engine or in the casting?
I haven't looked yet as it's tight against the firewall in the Beetle. I believe it cast. And for ECU read out purposes I need to know what year this engine is. I know I have the two green plugs and 1 black one, so I'm thinking it's a 94/93
Can you refer me to a good source to make sense of the casting number?
It sounds like the water pump isn't able to keep the required flow moving through the system and it's stagnating at that high point. How much additional hose did you add to run the radiator in the front? What size hose?
Depending on what you have setup, you may have to put some sort of electrical booster pump in-line to keep the system from stagnating at idle.
I have the radiator up front with aprox 14ft of 40mm hoses going back and forth in total.
I changed the thermostat yesterday to a 79c and took out the pin that sits in the bleedthru hole. Bled it by putting the nose up and car at a 45* angle. Seems to have worked so far and I have a much better flow at idle.
I haven't had a chance to do some realworld testing as the EJ20 has developed a driveability issue.
Bog under load, say high gear low RPM or WOT acceleration. So on a flat road at 1200 rpm in gear, no matter what gear, if I try to accelerate hard it shakes/bogs/sputters/missfires, if I let off the throttle and accelerate gently it's either less violent or smooth.
It starts a little hard but nothing dramatic for an engine with 300k kilometers, idles fine (every so often once warm shifts 30 to 50rpm sporadically). Off idle if I blip the throttle I can hear it missfire slightly, sounds like a missfire, could be a bit of a bog etc. Gradual acceleration is silky smooth.
It's not constant, it does this 3/4 of the time, every so often it will be fine and it just started doing this 3 days ago (symptoms were present before changing thermostat).
I was thinking of checking the CTS, TPS and then the ECU for codes first. Perhaps wiping the ECU because it thinks the engine has overheated frequently the past 60 miles (with the trapped airpocket reaching temps of over 120c) and I read a post somewhere that an EJ25 ran like crap after overheat and fine after resetting the ECU.
I was also thinking the CTS might be fried, literally from that stupid airpocket. Or that the TPS has gotten dodgy, although it is smooth at higher RPM, or if throttle is applied slowly.
Last thoughts are fuel pump or pressure regulator, what should the fuel pressure be and where is the regulator?
What is the most likely culprit in your opinion?
I don't have them off the top of my head now, but do have some documentation at home. The CTS uses a standard Bosch NTC calibration curve. I'll try and get you the gas gauge and CTS info when I get home.
Sweet, thanks I apreciate that! This way I can get a gas gauge working and rule some things out, if you could be so kind as to look up the TPS and cam sensor values that would be great.
I run 10w30. With miles that are on it, I'd probably stick with 10w30 or 10w40. The lack of backpressure shouldn't be an issue.
Allright man thanks, I was running a mineral 10/40 but might go to 10/30 as I do rev the hell out of it if I'm honest.
BTW, one final question. I can get my hands on a EJ22 with half the mileage and 20 extra horses are well felt in a Beetle. Is this just a strocked EJ20 or does it have a bigger bore? I wanna get the EJ20 running well either way because I'll still use it, just curious about the EJ22, ECU and wiring all the same?
Thanks A LOT for your help so far man!
Edited by DQ81, 26 May 2010 - 02:22 PM.