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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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rear main seal install


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32 replies to this topic

#26 nwtech

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 03:13 AM

always install flush, going in too far allows oil feed passages in the block to become exposed and just dump oil. although re doing it i got the tranny out in 30 minutes but had spen time cleaning all the dry threadlock off the clutch/flywheel bolts i just put on the day before ugh

#27 1-3-2-4

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 05:17 AM

in my case I don't think I went in far enough.. we will see this coming week.

#28 1-3-2-4

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 02:18 AM

I think I should of went with the 4" because the 3" is a tad small as it's pushing on the part where the spring is on the seal.

#29 Gloyale

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:06 PM

I think I should of went with the 4" because the 3" is a tad small as it's pushing on the part where the spring is on the seal.


3" pipe itself is too small.

You need a coupler, cap, or some other 3" piece with a female flange end.

4" will be way too big.

#30 1-3-2-4

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 04:07 PM

3" pipe itself is too small.

You need a coupler, cap, or some other 3" piece with a female flange end.

4" will be way too big.


That's what I tried to find lol I'm not a plumber but this is what I have now

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#31 1-3-2-4

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Posted 28 May 2012 - 01:03 PM

You know since I just pulled the tranny out I don't think my rear main is leaking.. not 100% sure yet since I gotta get the clutch cover off and stuff but the stuff that is soaked and looks greyish looking is the transmission bellhousing inside.. the lower tranny bolts are soaked in the greyish fluid.. I smelled it but it really has no strong smell.. but it does not seem to be the color of oil?

I know this old transmission they ran it without any transmission fluid until crap started binding.. I think it took like 2 flushes to get the fluid to finally stay in the transmission.

given it's wetness I'm 85% sure it might be the front seal of the tranny.

nevertheless I got this for the real main if I need it

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oh and the rear part

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#32 1-3-2-4

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:17 AM

I just wanted to say after I drove in the new seal (the above still did it a little uneven) but i ended up getting it sorted out by hitting the seal with a rubber mallet, the seal is like all the other reference photos I saw.. I got a little confused at first after I first took it for a drive when I was done because it was smoking like before after highway speeds but I guess that must of been the left over stuff because now it no longer smokes and this is after like 6K runs.

having said that the first gasket I used was a fel-pro but then I noticed not too long after they came out with a "new & improved" version at least that's what the description said.

Anyways the sealing lip looked smaller on the fel-pro.

#33 ivans imports

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:29 AM

flush with bevel I like to put a film of ultra grey around seal to garentie will not come loose as seal should be instaled when the block halfs are asembeld the halfs of the block actualy clamp the seal in place so when you try to push it in after the fact it can be very tight and dosent always seal where the block seam is.




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