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Shifter Linkage Replacement


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48 replies to this topic

#26 1-3-2-4

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Posted 16 July 2011 - 07:58 PM

Oh man I hope I wont have this issue when I drop the transmission

#27 kjmclark

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 06:24 AM

I think you'll just need to unbolt things a bit. It would have been nice to have the transmission down - the frozen up part would be easy to work on then. That's probably what the shop will end up doing if I eventually need that linkage replaced - drop the transmission and cut through the rusted on part.

I suspect our problem is because of the transmission. Our transmission always sounded a little more noisy than we thought it should (bought the car used). Then two years ago it was doing some funny shift things. The shop told us the transmission was shot - the shifting was funny because the trans itself was slopping around. They found us a used transmission and put it in.

We noticed this loose shifter problem right away after the replacement transmission, and it got worse over time. I think the linkage was fused to the shift rod from the used trans shop. Neither them or my shop did anything with it; they just decided to put the trans in there without touching the rusted-up part. I wish they had told me it need a new $50 linkage and done that while they put the transmission in, but they didn't.

#28 Tmb9862

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 05:32 PM

I think you'll just need to unbolt things a bit. It would have been nice to have the transmission down - the frozen up part would be easy to work on then. That's probably what the shop will end up doing if I eventually need that linkage replaced - drop the transmission and cut through the rusted on part.

You could drop the exhaust, heat shield and cross member. That's only about a half hour job and another half hour to get back in. Add another half hour if you need to cut the exhaust bolts. Then it would be pretty easy to get an air chisel in there. That should make short work of the pin and removing the piece without dropping the transmission.

As a last resort if you're changing that piece anyway then you probably don't care about wrecking the bushing. So why not throw a little heat on it.

#29 kjmclark

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 07:38 AM

You could drop the exhaust, heat shield and cross member. That's only about a half hour job and another half hour to get back in. Add another half hour if you need to cut the exhaust bolts. Then it would be pretty easy to get an air chisel in there. That should make short work of the pin and removing the piece without dropping the transmission.

As a last resort if you're changing that piece anyway then you probably don't care about wrecking the bushing. So why not throw a little heat on it.


Thought of those. Removing the cross-member is recommended somewhere else, but they also recommend putting a jack under the transmission in that case to support it. I also don't have any air tools, so I'd have to go spend a couple hundred bucks :eek: The pin wasn't *that* hard to deal with.

If my bad bushings had been the non-replaceable ones, the next thing to try would have been torching the connection. But all I have at home is a propane torch, and since I don't know what's on the other end of that transmission rod, I was a little concerned about how much that rod would heat up (and cook what was on the other side), since with propane I'd have to leave it on there a while to heat it. I'm not good enough at heating rusted connections yet - it only seems to work about 1/3 of the time for me.

#30 JavaTee

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 01:18 PM

Just finished up the shifter linkage install, and it's like I'm driving a whole new Subie. I picked-up the main linkage (the one that uses the spring) from Subaru, and the other bushings from Kartboy http://turninconcept...9sreodi0frtfr32.

With the proper tools, and frame of mind, it's a great upgrade to fix those sloppy shifters.

Later, T.J.

#31 1-3-2-4

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 05:42 PM

that reminds me I still haven't got this part yet and Im taking out the transmission in a few weeks now.

#32 doc526

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 11:31 AM

Why are you removing the trans?

#33 1-3-2-4

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 11:38 AM

I don't have 5th gear and the bearings it's cheaper to just get a used one from a 98 Forester.

I'm wondering if I should keep some stuff from the outback transmission like the center diff.

#34 doc526

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 01:04 PM

I would. Then for fun, tear the trans apart to see what can be learned. :headbang:

#35 1-3-2-4

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 01:08 PM

I would. Then for fun, tear the trans apart to see what can be learned. :headbang:


Yeah I plan on throwing in a front LSD As soon as I hear back from the DMV I can make my trip up to MA to pick it up :)

It's going to be fun.. me and the transmission weight the same amount.

#36 1-3-2-4

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:33 PM

I finally have the shifter linkage in hand after my tranny took a dump.. quick question is it really needed to replace the roll pins? because I did not get those when i went to pick up my order.

The shifter rattle and sloppy feeling was bugging me.

Going to get the new pins

Edited by 1-3-2-4, 06 May 2012 - 06:37 PM.


#37 doc526

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 10:15 AM

Im not sure on if you really need new pins or not. I bought new ones because I did not want any problems as I was going out of town the next day. You can try the old ones and see how it goes.

I saw where your trans took a dump. That sucks! I am following your thread as it progresses.

Dean

#38 1-3-2-4

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 03:39 PM

one question I wanted to ask you was when you got the replacement pins was it just one or was it the stupid two pin setup again? No one has them and the only closest people that have them are in Vermont and Mass and I'm not going that far for pins lol.

I was doing a bunch of reading and if my linkage is stuck they say a pickle fork works good on getting it off if it's stuck.

I misplaced my punch pins I had in my bag so I ended getting the sizes again but 3 inches longer this time.

#39 doc526

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 08:49 PM

If I remember correctly it was just a 1 pin. It was a fairly thick wall pin I do remember that. It also had a taper on the end to aid in alignment.

If the shifter is stuck on there, you might want to try a combination of kroil and pb blaster. I was sold on pb when working on my 49 ford pickup.

Let me know if you need any more info.

Dean

#40 1-3-2-4

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 03:18 AM

I've got two cans of kroil so I should be good, I like it better then PB blaster hopefully spraying it early will help.

#41 doc526

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 07:35 AM

Some new information. It is a dual layer pin. Found one kicking around in my hardware cabinet that I did not know about. I used a pair of Starrett calipers to measure it.

.333" in diameter
1.20" long
.075" gap in the long opening of the roll pin.

Hope this helps.

Dean

Attached Files


Edited by doc526, 09 May 2012 - 07:50 AM.


#42 1-3-2-4

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 08:44 AM

Thanks, I think I'm just going to reuse the pins I have.. my bushings came today and I ordered two new Starrett punch pins both are 8 inches long which should be long enough I think.

#43 hogweed

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 09:55 PM

has anyone just tried replacing the spring? my 98 legacy wagon just got kicked back from inspection for the shifter and i don't want to spend a lot of time fixing it

 

thx

g


Edited by hogweed, 28 October 2014 - 09:55 PM.


#44 Olnick

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 10:58 PM

@hogweed:  What's your shifter doing?  Does it make any effort to center-up on its own?  If not then a new spring might help.  But if it's general all-over sloppiness and you can't find your gears easily, then it probably needs new bushings.  Bummers!  Good luck.



#45 hogweed

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 11:19 PM

@hogweed:  What's your shifter doing?  Does it make any effort to center-up on its own?  If not then a new spring might help.  But if it's general all-over sloppiness and you can't find your gears easily, then it probably needs new bushings.  Bummers!  Good luck.

seems to get all the gears but is limp. i'm going to try doing the spring just to get it thru insp.....thx



#46 hogweed

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 05:40 PM

ok, so i'm waiting 13 days for the new ujointbut i thought i would get the old one out in the interim....i CANNOT get the large pin to budge. i'm afraid i've deformed it and fear it won't be able to move through the holes now. if i take out the x members is it possible to drill that out? aany other ideas?



#47 hogweed

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 07:04 PM

ok, so i'm waiting 13 days for the new ujointbut i thought i would get the old one out in the interim....i CANNOT get the large pin to budge. i'm afraid i've deformed it and fear it won't be able to move through the holes now. if i take out the x members is it possible to drill that out? aany other ideas?

i have three key words for this job: freaking air tools!! i destroyed my large pin beating on it for an hour and it would not move. got the air hammer out and had it out in 10 minutes.

also, instead of taping the pin to the punch, i used the 1/8" punch through the large pin with a shouldered nut at the bottom to provide a flush surface.

this keeps the linkage centered and the pin can't go anywhere but up. i wanted to show how the pin fits on the tool but the old one is horribly disfigured and the new one is where it belongs!

 

punch1_zps58d3a737.jpg


Edited by hogweed, 15 November 2014 - 12:25 AM.


#48 doc526

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Posted 15 November 2014 - 11:22 PM

Nice idea! I did not have much trouble getting mine out. I'm one of the lucky ones and live in Georgia where salt is virtually non-existent. I saw your question regarding the spring. My spring was ok but I had tons of slop when shifting gears. It's still shifting great.

#49 hogweed

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Posted 16 November 2014 - 07:22 PM

Nice idea! I did not have much trouble getting mine out. I'm one of the lucky ones and live in Georgia where salt is virtually non-existent. I saw your question regarding the spring. My spring was ok but I had tons of slop when shifting gears. It's still shifting great.

i thought i had really mushroomed it but once i sat the air hammer on it it came out.

on assembly i couldn't get the holes to stay lined up nor get the pin to stay on the punch w/ tape....i kept looking at it (hoping to stare it in?) and i thought of that set up. worked like magic. thepunch centers everything the the nut keeps the force on the bottom surface of the pin






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