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Timing Belt: Tools Required?
Posted 19 February 2004 - 05:12 AM
Can you tell me the sizes of the crank pully bolt?
I am assuming 10, 12, 14 17 and 19 for everything else.
Am I going to need a balancer puller to get off the pully?
Is it standard opperating proceedure to do teh water pump at teh same time as the timing belt?
Posted 19 February 2004 - 07:11 AM
Posted 19 February 2004 - 09:52 AM
1)All chances are your crankshaft pulley bolt head size is the same as on most Legacies (and as on mine): 22 mm
2) You dont need a puller, the crank pulley will practically fall in your hands when the bolt is removed.
3) People use different methods to immobilize the pulley while they remove the pulley bolt. I think mine is cheap and very efficient. I bought a chain wise grip for around 20$ Can and used it to remove the crank pulley as well as the cam pulleys. The beauty of this tool aside is low cost is that the relatively short handle is easily made to catch on nearby immovable parts and thus permits you to work alone with both hands free.
The only caveat is you have to use something to protect the pulleys and you should use just enough clamping force to hold the pulleys steady. I used my good old judgment and everything went fine. I used part of an old drive belt to protect the crankd pulley and part of the old timing belt to protect the cam pulleys.
4) I think you're about right for the rest of the sockets sizes.
5) Most people here, and me included, think that replacing the water pump is cheap insuraqnce. You should also replace the crank and cam seals and reseal the oil pump (an O ring + sealing compound around where the pump mates with the engine block)
Hope that helps and good luck!
Posted 19 February 2004 - 09:56 AM
Posted 19 February 2004 - 03:28 PM
Posted 19 February 2004 - 05:13 PM
an alternative method to immobilize the crank is to put the car in 5th (if it is manual), have someone step hard on the brakes, and break it free.
Posted 19 February 2004 - 05:33 PM
Posted 19 February 2004 - 06:24 PM
AFAIK ultra-grey is not anerobic.
Three bond 1280B is available under Subaru# S0A5499100. AKAIK this is used for the H6 camcase.
Three bond 1215 is available under Subaru# SOA635019. I think this is used everywhere else three bond is called for.
Posted 19 February 2004 - 06:34 PM
its a 92 2.2 legacy 5speed 4x4 (not that it matters too much). hte bolt does look to be about the same as my ea81t (that was the wrx want to be. I used to be on the older gen site. I built a fulltime5 speed pushrod turbo dl wagon taht would destroy everything off the line in low range for the first 5o feet)
I measured the bolt before I left and you are right.
my favorite trick was to put the breaker bar between the ground and the skid plate and put the socket on the nut and .......................... turn the key. hte starter has way more torque than my little arms. check rotation directionfirst!!!!
anyway, thanks or the advice. I ahve no ac, so it looks to be a peice of cake. I also have no money and because it looks easy, I will skip the water pump and seals for now (well, maybe i will do the crank seal) and do them wehn I ahve more cash. I also need to do front drive shafts and my y pipe is leaking, so a little at a time.
Posted 19 February 2004 - 06:51 PM
Make sure you properly torque the crank pulley bolt with some blue (medium) loctite when you put it back together.
Posted 19 February 2004 - 08:33 PM
from tsb #somethingsomething-something. if anyone needs it, i can look it up...
Posted 20 February 2004 - 02:43 AM
Posted 20 February 2004 - 08:39 AM
BTW....excellent info in that scan....I think I'll be swiping it
Posted 25 February 2004 - 08:51 PM
Did you buy any of that three bond yet? I am curious about the size of the container.
004403007 Super Three Bond 1215 $20.03
SOA635019 Super Three Bond 1215 $5.00
I am guessing the only difference is the size of the container, presuming that the two are actually the same otherwise.
Posted 25 February 2004 - 09:11 PM
Posted 26 February 2004 - 09:29 AM
It says on that sheet it's comparable, so that's good enough for me.
Posted 26 February 2004 - 12:49 PM
FWIW I have never had a leak with ultra-black or the anerobic, but the blue RTV seems to be hit or miss. I won't use the blue stuff on my own cars.
A little OT, paid $23 for a bottle of blue loctite at Napa a couple of days ago. Ouch!
Posted 26 February 2004 - 05:17 PM
Posted 26 February 2004 - 05:36 PM
Posted 27 February 2004 - 09:07 PM
It looks like it might work great for holding those pesky 2.2l cam sprockets when replacing the cam seals. Pretty cheap too.
Universal Cam Adjuster
It would make a good addition to my toolbox.
Posted 28 February 2004 - 01:18 PM
Posted 29 February 2004 - 12:57 PM
Posted 29 February 2004 - 01:25 PM
Originally posted by avk
Do you think this tool can also be used, in the same way as the factory one, to hold the crank pulley? I see they do sell a tool specifically for holding the pulley, with a set of pegs in several sizes, but it costs more.
I honestly do not know. I have been using a chain wrench with old belts to protect the pulley.
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