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ej swap won't stay running... HELP!!!


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50 replies to this topic

#26 subaranx

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 04:12 PM

this sounds identicle to the problem on my ej22 swap -- Ive tried about everything you have to no avail -- runs great for 5 seconds then shuts off like key being turned off. Hope you get it figgered out soon . . . I'm pullin my hair out too -- and I'm bald

#27 subaranx

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 12:04 PM

Hey again---finally got my 2.2 running !! -- don't think my problem is the same as yours but it was the IGN wire from the input side of the main relay to the ECU -- it was not connected

Hope you get yours figgered out sooon!!

keep us posted and good luck to ya! :rolleyes:

#28 Zefy

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 02:55 AM

good to hear that you figured it out.

We'll never know what the problem was with my wiring. I decided to fix it with a metaphorical sledge hammer...

Posted Image

Full stand alone. Overkill? yup...:rolleyes:

My build doesn't end with a simple ej22...

#29 Zefy

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 08:47 PM

lol... this didn't take any extreme amount of time at all... After much troubleshooting (obviously) the brat is now running on a full standalone.

Not well... but it does...:-p

Clicky the big black box...


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#30 kanurys

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 05:03 PM

Maybe it was a bad Subaru ECU? There are two modes that it cycles through for controlling the fuel pump. It sounds like it wasn't switching to the second mode "run." First mode is "Prime/Start."

But now its a moot point. Fun times with fuel mapping :) Can you get a profile for the EJ22 for that computer? If you don't mind me asking, what is it and wat did it cost you?

#31 Zefy

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Posted 10 July 2012 - 01:09 AM

Maybe it was a bad Subaru ECU? There are two modes that it cycles through for controlling the fuel pump. It sounds like it wasn't switching to the second mode "run." First mode is "Prime/Start."

But now its a moot point. Fun times with fuel mapping :) Can you get a profile for the EJ22 for that computer? If you don't mind me asking, what is it and wat did it cost you?


sorry for the slow reply.

I tried swapping to a friends ECU and it had the same results. I was not losing fuel pressure at all while running. The injectors were receiving a fuel cut signal. While I was tearing everything apart I may have discovered the problem but I was already committed to the standalone. The bolt for the cam sensor was not snugged up. It wasn't dangly loose, just not snug...

the standalone is an electromotive tec3. This is a 'universal' standalone system that will work on essentially any motor from a rotary to a v12.

With that in mind, it is not a plug n play system. I did not use any of the stock sensors for this application and it even replaces the crank trigger wheel and coils.

The ECU came with a wizard for making a base map but it's really just something so the car can start. The rest of it is up to me! Lucky the aftermarket support for these is fantastic.

But all said and done, these systems retail (with all the sensors and jazz) for about $3300. I bought it used for $500 which as I've learned is cheap for these units. Came with all the sensors and everything to get it running to as it came off a suby.

Honestly this isn't my first choice for a standalone but its perfect for what I need. There are other more suby friendly units like the vipec or hydra.

I cannot find anybody else running one of these on a subaru though.

#32 Zefy

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 06:28 AM



#33 kanurys

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Posted 03 September 2012 - 10:11 AM

Thanks for the info. My start but no run issue turned out to be chassis ground to the battery/engine, or lack of one. Once everything was grounded properly the engine ran flawlessly, and still does. It seems there was no good path from the chassis to battery ground, but there was for the engine through the starter. The computer was grounded to the engine but not the chassis, but some things it controled like fuel pump, tach signal, main relay, etc... were grounded to the chassis. Who know what it really was or how it was effecting the computer, but that was the solution.

#34 Zefy

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 05:00 AM

interesting. I'm still curious as to why mine didn't run properly. My engine and chassis grounds were good. Very confusing...

On a different note though, my alternator isn't charging anything... I am using a newer one from a 97. It has a two wire plug on it. This plug is not connected to anything because I am running a standalone.

I tried just doing a quick jumper test to the battery and it didn't change. I will put a little more effort into it tomorrow but does anybody know how to actually wire one of these in? It seems that I may actually need a signal from the ECU (which isn't there...) to turn on based on this:

http://bbs.legacycen...hp?f=19&t=18135

thoughts? this is actually one of the few things from stopping me from getting temp insurance and going for a drive. :D

#35 kanurys

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 10:18 AM

Yes, I had issues getting the 2-wire plug interfaced correctly. It's detail in my build thread: http://www.ultimates...t=129186&page=2

-Yellow wire should get battery power (voltage regulator reference voltage).

-Black/White should connect to 10Watt 100 Ohm resistor in place of a charge light bulb and then to switched power. I guess you could use an actual light bulb of similar resistance. If there is no resistance there, the alternator will put out only 1 or 2 volts. It took me a while to figure this out. This wire powers the field coils.

-BIG heavy gauge white wire(s) to 80Amp fuse to battery.

Read my thread to see how it all came together.

Edited by kanurys, 09 September 2012 - 10:21 AM.


#36 Gloyale

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 10:21 AM

Yes, I had issues getting the 2-wire plug interfaced correctly. It's detail in my build thread: http://www.ultimates...t=129186&page=2

-Yellow wire should get battery power (voltage regulator reference voltage).

-Black/White should connect to 10Watt 100 Ohm resistor in place of a charge light bulb and then to switched power. I guess you could use an actual light bulb of similar resistance. If there is no resistance there, the alternator will put out only 1 or 2 volts. It took me a while to figure this out.

-BIG heavy gauge white wire(s) to 80Amp fuse to battery.

Read my thread to see how it all came together.


97 Alt shouldn't have a yellow wire.

All it needs is a charge light.

Black/White wire to the White/Red in the EA chassis.

#37 Zefy

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 12:22 PM

I will have to go look at my wiring but I didn't think it would be that simple. My car had an ea71 with a external voltage reg alternator. Still the same white/red wire?

I also don't have the pigtail for my alternator. Which pins are which?

#38 kanurys

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 01:05 PM

97 Alt shouldn't have a yellow wire.

All it needs is a charge light.

Black/White wire to the White/Red in the EA chassis.



Good call. The main big white wire does the job of the yellow wire, as well in certain alternators. The black/white wire still need the resistance of a light bulb to enable the alternator field coils.

Since I have a voltage gauge, I just put a resistor in, but you could do a charge light. It's just a little more work.

#39 Gloyale

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 10:12 AM

I will have to go look at my wiring but I didn't think it would be that simple. My car had an ea71 with a external voltage reg alternator. Still the same white/red wire?

I also don't have the pigtail for my alternator. Which pins are which?


With the external regulator, if I remember correctly, It's a White/red stripe wire at the alt, but it goes into the VR and out as a different color to the charge light. So you will need to jumper a wire to the regulator connector.

To find the Charge light wire:

Unplug the VR
Turn key on
Hook a test light to ground lead to a good ground
Probe the connector at the VR while someone watches the chargelight.

When you get the right wire, the test light will light up a bit weak, and the charge light will light inside.

Hook up the BW EJ alt wire to that wire at the VR for the charge light.

#40 ivans imports

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 10:57 AM

sounds like you are missing the power wires somwere on the realy feed or bad ground on brown ig realy it has 2 power sources think you are missing one. If the idle motor is not working it will lose the pulse to the #1 injector but will still run fine on 3 sound like power problem or feul have had problems with intank pu not being big enuff for 2.2 demands but would still stay runing are you useing the factory feul pump relay or legacy one they work diferantly one grounds to turn on pump one powers to turn on pump

#41 Zefy

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 11:58 AM

sounds like you are missing the power wires somwere on the realy feed or bad ground on brown ig realy it has 2 power sources think you are missing one. If the idle motor is not working it will lose the pulse to the #1 injector but will still run fine on 3 sound like power problem or feul have had problems with intank pu not being big enuff for 2.2 demands but would still stay runing are you useing the factory feul pump relay or legacy one they work diferantly one grounds to turn on pump one powers to turn on pump


we will never know what was really wrong with my swap harness as i went ti a standalone computer system. However its good to get this info down in case someone else has these problems.

as far as my alternator problems are concerned, I will and a look through my FSM to try and pin down the right wires. Most of the stock harness is still in the car so it should still be there. I no longer have the regulator or original alt wiring being used so it'll take some digging. Thanks!

#42 kanurys

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 12:36 PM

the EJ and EA82 fsm's aren't very clear on alternator wiring. I had to do a lot of research, too, to find out how to hook it up. Black/White EJ alt wire to light bulb or about 100 ohm 10 watt resistor. I also ran mine through the "charge" fuse in the EA82 fuse box.

#43 ivans imports

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 11:03 AM

carefull wrong hookup will ruin alt i use only one wire from the legacy alt on my 79 with 2.5 turbo uses 91 legacy alt

#44 Zefy

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 02:10 PM

carefull wrong hookup will ruin alt i use only one wire from the legacy alt on my 79 with 2.5 turbo uses 91 legacy alt


Because I don't have the plug for my alternator I had to trial and error the pins. I guessed wrong on the first one... Only two wires on it so second time did the trick! Not sure if doing that ruined it...

But it seems to work. Voltage seems to be a little high at idle but I haven't really had a chance to really run it for any length of time. I just tested with my DMM and then again with the tuning software on my laptop.

Just to confirm, the second wire does absolutely nothing...? Or is this wire used as the voltage regulator signal wire?

I would really love to see a couple pictures of your 79. Sounds like a beast.:D

#45 ivans imports

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 10:05 AM

sorry dident look close enuff the yellow wire is the signal wire go's to the red and white wire on my car and the heavy white wire go's back to the power post on alt and black and white is not used hooking the heavy white wire up will stableize the voltage if you dont have a plug for alt get one i saw a 91 legacy at chillawack pickand pull had a alt on it. I will try and get a picture of the fishing car on here its only purpose is to go fishing i very remote places works crazy good smokes its 31s no problem and i have to hold back on gas or will bust trans makes way to mutch hp for the deul range 5 speed it uses

#46 Gloyale

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 09:57 AM

the yellow wire is the signal wire go's to the red and white wire on my car and the heavy white wire go's back to the power post on alt and black and white is not used


You've got it wrong.

Yellow wire doesn't go to the Red/white.


EJ charge light wire = Black/White

EA charge light wire = White/red



Yellow wire is signal voltage, not charge light. Yellow can be hooked to the BW wire in the EA harness, or to any other IG. switched power.

In factory EJ harness, that yellow wire is tied to Ig. switched power (same circuit as the Coil and Transitor)

#47 kanurys

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 10:13 AM

I seem to recall that yellow had power at all times through the main fuse box under the hood.

#48 Gloyale

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 11:44 PM

I seem to recall that yellow had power at all times through the main fuse box under the hood.


You are correct.

My mistake. That circuit does have 12v constant in the EJ harness.

I wire it in switched with the relays in conversions.

but either way.....it's not the charge light wire. that's the other one. Ussually B/w

#49 kanurys

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 01:09 AM

You are correct.

My mistake. That circuit does have 12v constant in the EJ harness.

I wire it in switched with the relays in conversions.

but either way.....it's not the charge light wire. that's the other one. Ussually B/w


Thanks, yeah the B/w is the charge light. Its connected from the alternator to the light to 12v switched. Make sure the light is of proper bulb resistance or just throw a resistor in there if you have a voltage gauge.

#50 Gloyale

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 10:53 AM

Thanks, yeah the B/w is the charge light. Its connected from the alternator to the light to 12v switched. Make sure the light is of proper bulb resistance or just throw a resistor in there if you have a voltage gauge.


Why not just hook to the "charge" light in the dash?




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