mcbrat Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2459356463 threads onto the axle shaft, so you can hit it on the end to drive the shaft out without munching the threads... I'll try to get a better picture of it later.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 wouldnt it depend on the thread pitch of the CV? I know alot of reman CV's i get have different thread pitch if the prev owner mangled the CV. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted February 22, 2004 Author Share Posted February 22, 2004 well, I'll check it out tonight... the axle install tool I have is a VW part, so I just assumed this would fit, but I guess it may not..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 It may. I have to replace the rotors on my wagon, and i know im going to have a hard time with the drivers side.... since the CV was re-threaded, it now has a bolt that isnt 36mm on it. Just thought that if that were the case, this tool wouldnt work with all Subaru CV's. Best of luck, looks like a good idea... but when im removing CV's, usually a fresh new one is going back in so I dont really worry about banging it up -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 Couldn't you just put the axle nut back on after removing the hub and bang on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_bard Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 I've always used a piece of 2x4 wood, endwise, and made sure I was square on with end of the shaft, before I started pounding on it with a sledge (or 3 lbs. cross pinion hammer... works good if you store all your tools in your car, 'cause you don't have anywhere else to store it. D**n brownstone apartments. D**n city living. I wanna get back to the country.) Used to do it with tractors all the time, and it's worked so far with my Subie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 I just use the axle nut sometimes - but that can ruin a good axle nut..... and if you don't have an extra..... a bit of 2x4 usually works pretty well. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 I'm all about redundancy.. I use the Axle nut and the 2x4:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted February 22, 2004 Author Share Posted February 22, 2004 well, it fits perfectly I've use the wood too, but a couple of times, I've had problems with the wood splitting. (1st axle change after new bearings) I've also used the axle nut method, but when you hit it, any pressue on the nut, is just transfered to the threads. (I've wrecked some threads this way too, trying to save an axle.... this VW tool I got, threads onto the nut, but sits flat against the end of the axle, so when you whack it, the force is transfered to the shaft. it's a KD Tools, KD-52. I've searches all over the net, and haven't found any of them anywhere.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 i usually use the butt of my sledgehammer handle to pound the axle out. yes, it's hard on the hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 So, this tool basically consists of an axle nut with a piece of steel on one side that rests on the end of the stub when it's tightened down? I'm just trying to get the concept right, as I'm thinking about making tools for axle removal and installation sometime in the near future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted February 22, 2004 Author Share Posted February 22, 2004 yeah, basically. the solid "tip" is about 1.5" deep on top of 1" of threads, so about 2.5" long total.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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