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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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finally did plug & wire replacement


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5 replies to this topic

#1 tracedog67

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Posted 22 February 2004 - 09:50 PM

Fellers,

Well saturday I finally replaced all 4 of my plugwires and 3 of my sparkplugs. That last plug in the rear on the driver's side was just about impossible down next to the frame so i left that one in for now. the instructions found here saying to remove the airbox, the washer reservoir and the battery box really made it much easier. When i pulled out the front plug on the driver's side the gap on the plug was practically nil so hopefully that is why i have been getting crappy mileage lately. Or possibly i hit the top of the plug when i pulled it out. I bought the cheapest wires ($38, i think) from BMA and they seem just fine so far. Went with the
$4 per plug Autolite platinums because i couldn't find the NGKs anywhere here in northern Cincinnati.

thanks all

Tdog

#2 myles

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Posted 22 February 2004 - 10:35 PM

Originally posted by tracedog67
Fellers,

Well saturday I finally replaced all 4 of my plugwires and 3 of my sparkplugs. That last plug in the rear on the driver's side was just about impossible down next to the frame so i left that one in for now. the instructions found here saying to remove the airbox, the washer reservoir and the battery box really made it much easier. When i pulled out the front plug on the driver's side the gap on the plug was practically nil so hopefully that is why i have been getting crappy mileage lately. Or possibly i hit the top of the plug when i pulled it out. I bought the cheapest wires ($38, i think) from BMA and they seem just fine so far. Went with the
$4 per plug Autolite platinums because i couldn't find the NGKs anywhere here in northern Cincinnati.

thanks all

Tdog



Is this a DOHC 2.5? If so, I've read that it might be easier working from underneath.

#3 gbhrps

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Posted 23 February 2004 - 06:56 PM

The back plug on the driver's side is a *itch to get out for sure, but I found a way that worked well indeed. I have a set of needle nosed pliers that are bent at a 45 degree angle. I closed the pliers, with the tips pointed away from the engine, around the plug rubber gaiter (not the wire!) and using 2 hands on the pliers was able to get it off quite easily. It worked for me.

#4 hklaine

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Posted 24 February 2004 - 01:01 AM

I just did the plugs and wires on my car tonight. HUGE difference. $2 NGK V-Groove plugs and good NGK wires.

-Heikki

#5 Nuwan

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Posted 24 February 2004 - 11:44 AM

I had a rally on the weekend and my car was suffering from horrible hesitation the night prior to the event. Anywhere between 3000 and 5500 rpm at beyond 50% throttle the car would buck and alternate between zero and full power. I re-gapped the plugs to a smaller gap and it did the trick, i think the car was running better than ever after. I made the gap 0.004" smaller, and i think the hesitation was due to the boost blowing out the spark.

Currently using 0.040" gap, what does everyone else use?

BTW: this is on a 92 legacy turbo running 15psi:D

#6 hklaine

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Posted 26 February 2004 - 08:13 PM

I run .040 gap as well. Though I have an N/A 2.2.

-Heikki




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