Scott in Bellingham Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 splitin cases on a 87 Dual range transaxle, will I need any special tools?? whats a good goo to glue them cases back together with? will be weldin up the spiders and then puttin er back together, any thing to it any tricks concerns theankis Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 Loctite 518 on the case halves. No special tools needed - you will need a 35mm socket. Make sure to carefully note how stuff goes together and work over a clean surface since some of the little springs and detent balls, etc are small and easily roll away. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Loctite 518 on the case halves. No special tools needed - you will need a 35mm socket. Make sure to carefully note how stuff goes together and work over a clean surface since some of the little springs and detent balls, etc are small and easily roll away. GD No need for 35 mm socket with the 5spd. All you will need is a 1/4 drive 10mm socket on an extension for the reverse lockout bolt. Remember to disconnect the rod that runs forward to the D/R mechanism before oyu try to pull off the rear section. The on;y spring and ball needs to come out is the one on the back side of the reverse check mechanism......this will allow the check to be pushed "out" to get access to the 10mm bolt on the shift rod. Otherwise, it's all really straight forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted September 8, 2010 Author Share Posted September 8, 2010 this is a 5 speed ,thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Hhhmmm - I thought there was still a 35mm but I didn't need a thin-wall like the 4 speed...... I could be mistaken though. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Hhhmmm - I thought there was still a 35mm but I didn't need a thin-wall like the 4 speed...... I could be mistaken though. GD Only if you want to disassemble the pinion shaft. If you are just splitting it to replace seals and in Scott's case weld:eek: the front diff no need to mess with that nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Might I sugest - if you are going to the trouble..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m748&item=160476762024&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D5820903939381906431 (instead of welding it). From what I understand pretty much all the Subaru front diff carriers are interchangeable on the 5 speed's.... not entirely sure about the EA's but it probably wouldn't be hard to make it work..... I will be putting one of these into a '95 STi transmission soon so I'll be able to comment on changing the stubs out for 23 spline (that's the goal right now). GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Is that like a Torsen diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Is that like a Torsen diff? Yep - just like a Hummer GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Might I sugest - if you are going to the trouble..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m748&item=160476762024&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D5820903939381906431 (instead of welding it). From what I understand pretty much all the Subaru front diff carriers are interchangeable on the 5 speed's.... not entirely sure about the EA's but it probably wouldn't be hard to make it work..... I will be putting one of these into a '95 STi transmission soon so I'll be able to comment on changing the stubs out for 23 spline (that's the goal right now). GD that might work for a unit that is being utilized for front drive from the front outputs.but this unit will be used for front and rear drive from the front outputs.so, i think that the welding idea is the better route. cheers, brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 It would be neat to make that Torsen the centre diff as well..... To heck with torque bind and silicone fluid, or even locking buttons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpybrumby Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 On the subject of detent springs/ balls could anyone post a schematic diagram of the selectable 4wd 5spd D/R ('88) box. I'm having trouble getting the ball back in on the hi/lo shift rail. The one that lets you disengage low range. I had trouble getting the shaft out to change the oil seals and the ball dropped out unseen when the shaft suddenly slipped out. PLEASE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Install a 1/4 inch washer between the reverse idler and case on front side of gear will prevent reverse kickout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 The trick to the rails is the have to be together when you put the middle shaft thru then can put 2nd shaft in then snaprings and pin a bit of sticky grease will keep ball's / detents in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.